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  #16  
Old 01-07-2010, 06:15 PM
soothappens's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
That doesn't sound good. 225 is very low. You should have cross hatching. If you don't, the cylinders are worn.
Yeah sure rub it in !! So tell me Dr. how long does she have ??

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86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2010, 06:45 PM
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Maybe this was mentioned but, have you checked the power going to and exiting the relay box? or even the strip fuse in the relay box?

I had a 300D turbo a few years back and I was stumped b/c like urs, wouldn't start. Glow plug light came on and cycled but no start. Found that the strip fuse was blown. Replaced it and it blew agian. Discovered that the wiring runing to the glow plugs was shorting out someplace.. i think... But yea... just suggesting based on a tad bit of experience
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2010, 10:30 PM
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Nothing wrong here that money cannot cure. Seriously though how many miles to a quart of oil do you think?

The total lack of any visable cross hatching when you had the head off was not a good sign either. If that is gone some of the wear will be tapered bores.

It has suprised me that the cross hatching was still present years ago on some of their gas engines. I had thought it unusual with so many miles on them.

Some of these diesel cars have accumulated an ungodly amount of miles since manufactured. They just had chronic odometer problems mind people messing with them. Or perhaps a previous owner that never bothered to change oil could enable this. Once the suspended soot in the oil goes high it turns abrasive.

On the otherhand a resourceful fellow might locate a solid used engine with a little effort and money. If the remainder of the car is worth the effort.

I can see little harm with trying the water injection at this stage. Just do not be too disapointed if no improvement results. For example if the piston lands are worn it might be pumping oil. The water treatment cannot tighten up those clearances.
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  #19  
Old 01-08-2010, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Nothing wrong here that money cannot cure. Seriously though how many miles to a quart of oil do you think?

The total lack of any visable cross hatching when you had the head off was not a good sign either. If that is gone some of the wear will be tapered bores.

It has suprised me that the cross hatching was still present years ago on some of their gas engines. I had thought it unusual with so many miles on them.

Some of these diesel cars have accumulated an ungodly amount of miles since manufactured. They just had chronic odometer problems mind people messing with them. Or perhaps a previous owner that never bothered to change oil could enable this. Once the suspended soot in the oil goes high it turns abrasive.

On the otherhand a resourceful fellow might locate a solid used engine with a little effort and money. If the remainder of the car is worth the effort.

I can see little harm with trying the water injection at this stage. Just do not be too disapointed if no improvement results. For example if the piston lands are worn it might be pumping oil. The water treatment cannot tighten up those clearances.
Thanks for the insight it uses about a quart every 1300 miles about the third fill up. It leaks quite a bit from the front seal and filter housing. Reminds me of a old detroit nothing will ever rust on it.

when I could see my reflection in the cylinder walls I was a little leary of it. Mileage wise the instrument panel was changed so it only has 180,000 only she knows what kind of miles she has and she kind of lets me know when these repairs come up. During the warm season it starts right up but when it gets under 50 degrees its hit and miss.

As far as rebuilding it I know its costly and easier finding a used one but heres where the good money after bad sets in . From what I can see its front left fender and front grill, hood ,radiator ,and radiator support were replaced from a wreck. The rust and spider web cracks in the paint are coming back through the shiny repaint . Front tires wear on the inner portion. Interior is worn, dash cracked . Ac blows cool at best especially in 100 + weather. The drive line splines are worn and rear is starting to show signs of half shaft problems. Along with shiny cylinder walls the valves where recessed in the head some having sharp edges. also the pistons had dents in the tops as if a prechamber had come apart at one time.

I replaced the brake master , clutch master and slave , rear calipers and pads. Removed and cleaned the injectors, set timing , replaced head gasket. The chain is dead on no stretch found . I also replaced "all" of the glow plugs last time I just replaced the ones that didnt glow , not even thinking about slow/weak ones. This has helped the starting issue . So it starts runs and shifts good when it wants to.

I keep wanting to get rid of it but the standard trans and all manual every thing makes it so easy and cheap to work on , that you fix something drive it and the love for it continues. I gave 2000.00 six years ago so I have gotten my moneys worth out of it. Fuel savings alone.

So would you keep it as long as it starts or time for another?

Are there any threads on the water injection?
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2010, 02:49 AM
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If you like driving it, and you've gotten your money out of it, and ongoing maintence isn't costing too much, keep it. If the car is still worth it, replace the engine when it gives up or becomes too much trouble to get started.

As for the starter lugging, are you sure the battery isn't just too old or too small? Or the starter starting to go? If the starter doesn't spin the engine fast enough, it'll be hard to start no matter what.
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  #21  
Old 01-08-2010, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patbob View Post
If you like driving it, and you've gotten your money out of it, and ongoing maintence isn't costing too much, keep it. If the car is still worth it, replace the engine when it gives up or becomes too much trouble to get started.

As for the starter lugging, are you sure the battery isn't just too old or too small? Or the starter starting to go? If the starter doesn't spin the engine fast enough, it'll be hard to start no matter what.

Thats what I was thinking whats the most expensive thing to repair on these 4 spd cars ?

Battery is brand new napa their high end one 900 cca .I took it back and they hooked a load tester to it. It cycled twice and voltage dropped to 11.50 then returned to 12.6 all seems ok there. Now the starter is what I'm suspecting. Do they make a gear reduction unit for these engines?

Today its 25* outside so I get to test the new glow plugs. It started up yesterday but it was plugged in. Didnt plug it in just to see if it will start.

Well here goes ! Thanks !
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #22  
Old 01-08-2010, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soothappens View Post
Thats what I was thinking whats the most expensive thing to repair on these 4 spd cars ?
Probably the engine, tranny and body are most expensive. However, cost of repair also must be balanced by whether you'll get your money out of it vs. whether a different car with a different, unknown, set of warts is the better choice.

A lot of people only seem to think of the immediate money-out-of-pocket and replace a car when a high cost repair comes up. Then they get stuck with the new car depreciation or somebody else's high-cost repair in the replacement car.

Quote:
Do they make a gear reduction unit for these engines?
Yes. Mean Green for one makes one. Another member installed one and seemed pretty happy with it. If my starter ever fails, that's probably what I'll replace it with.

Quote:
Today its 25* outside so I get to test the new glow plugs. It started up yesterday but it was plugged in. Didnt plug it in just to see if it will start.

Well here goes ! Thanks !
Good luck.

You could also try some B5 to B50 at those temps -- I find straight D#2 seems to be harder to start on in cold weather. The higher the B, the easier mine seems to start at a given temp. Just don't go so high a percentage it gels before you can use it up -- that makes them really hard to start
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  #23  
Old 01-08-2010, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patbob View Post

You could also try some B5 to B50 at those temps -- I find straight D#2 seems to be harder to start on in cold weather. The higher the B, the easier mine seems to start at a given temp. Just don't go so high a percentage it gels before you can use it up -- that makes them really hard to start
Can't say whether I agree or not with this, but if you want some biodiesel in San Antonio, I can point you to it.....Unfortunately, there is none available for the next few weeks.

I'll be having to go to the ga$ $tations to fuel up for the first time in months!
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  #24  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:51 PM
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well at 25* she cranks but not even a sputter even with an extended glow. I plugged it in went to work came home tried to start it at 28* and it started without any cranking. Just the normal glow when the light turned off. This kind of rules out the starter and battery. After the cranking I did this morning I thought for sure I would need a charger tonight. Guess its time to reread the post "240d wont start without plugging in" or drive it in spring and fall.

The gear reduction starter does sound good any posts on it ?

I wouldnt have thought the biodiesel would start it in cold weather I thought that was its weakness. With the crap we get at the pumps I do beleive any form of oil would be better . I went to the injection place and he found out the year and that it was a benz and was surprised I didnt use bio he said our systems are the best for it and saves cash. Havent seen that many suitable restaurants around S.A. to get it from. Its supossed to be chinese food for good grease correct ?

Zeke you couldnt have run out at a worse time $ 50.00 to fill mine yesterday and climbing
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #25  
Old 01-14-2010, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soothappens View Post
I wouldnt have thought the biodiesel would start it in cold weather I thought that was its weakness.
Higher percentages will gel in cold weather, but my experience has been that my car starts better with even a low percentage of bio than it does on straight D#2. I don't have to crank quite as long before it starts, and it starts on more cylinders. I can (and usually do) compensate by glowing longer when running straight D#2.
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  #26  
Old 01-14-2010, 08:19 PM
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Thirteen hundred per quart with a leak is not that bad on these engines. Just for fun remove the return hose from the injection pump. With engine running is there injection pump overflow into a container? If not you may have low base injection pump pressure. Getting it up to scratch might increase your start abilty a little. With your low compression it will never be super impressive.

A valve job might help as well. At that point though I would change the engine. A little search might locate a pretty fair engine cheap enough but you have to look and ask. They are still out there. A lot of people just want them out of the way.

Also can be found cheap sometimes in an otherwise useless car. I actuall;y always preffered this as the engine can be really tested before removal.
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  #27  
Old 01-14-2010, 08:37 PM
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Your glow plugs don't sounds like they are working. I had the exact same problem in my VW Rabbit, it would start up fine until about 55f then it would blow perfect white smoke rings out the tailpipe until the block warmed up enough for it to fire.
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  #28  
Old 01-14-2010, 08:52 PM
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What weight oil are you using?
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  #29  
Old 01-14-2010, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Thirteen hundred per quart with a leak is not that bad on these engines. Just for fun remove the return hose from the injection pump. With engine running is there injection pump overflow into a container? If not you may have low base injection pump pressure. Getting it up to scratch might increase your start abilty a little. With your low compression it will never be super impressive.

A valve job might help as well. At that point though I would change the engine. A little search might locate a pretty fair engine cheap enough but you have to look and ask. They are still out there. A lot of people just want them out of the way.

Also can be found cheap sometimes in an otherwise useless car. I actuall;y always preffered this as the engine can be really tested before removal.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. My 2003 chevy was using 2 quarts every 4000 and the dealer said it was acceptable . for who? notice it isnt in the signature . I fixed the leak !


Ive been following the return spring thread . When I corrected the spring length starting and driveability have improved as well as Idle. When I changed the glow plugs the engine woke up again. Real smooth after starting. While not super impressive it starts above 40* degrees now all by itself more unbelievable than impressive !

Next I recheck the valves I had done a diesel purge a few months ago and possibly had carbon on the valve seats. It dosent cost anything to check right.

On the way home the other day I lost my clutch pedal for an instant got home and the brake resevoir was low and the slave was leaking. This kind of put everything on hold for a little while . seal kit Bandaid fell off ! Time for new parts.

Thanks for the suggestions . Ill post what I find when checking the valves.
__________________


Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #30  
Old 01-14-2010, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor View Post
What weight oil are you using?

15/40 delo or rottela whatevers cheaper when I change it. I thought synthetic would bleed out of this engine being that I have numerous leaks.


In the summer I was switching to 20/50 due to the extreme temps we were having.

It does slow down some when the oil pressure guage registers .

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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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