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  #16  
Old 01-10-2010, 05:00 PM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
I wonder what this is for...1979 300D no turbo

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No fuel out the injector line at the injector when cracked and pumped-img_1931.jpg   No fuel out the injector line at the injector when cracked and pumped-img_1932.jpg   No fuel out the injector line at the injector when cracked and pumped-img_1933.jpg  
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2010, 05:19 PM
aaa aaa is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,075
Looks like wiper relays.
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  #18  
Old 01-10-2010, 06:14 PM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
Hello, guys I find myself in a better mood today. Thanks for all the help. Last night I decided to resist at all costs the urge to unscrew and pump the manual lift pump since the consensus is it was pulling in air. I also used a different battery that seemed to turn the car over faster.

The #5 injector that I changed had ALOT of air in the line. I guess it was just a matter of turning it over enough times to get the air pushed out of that line. I find it strange that it would not fire on the other 4 cylinders as I left those lines alone? Must be something internal of the injection pump that won't work if there is too much air in one line. Oh well it is working now and the leak at the injector is fixed.
.
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  #19  
Old 01-10-2010, 06:16 PM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
AS for that block on the driver side fender well (pics)... if I pull the silver relay looking blocks out, the starter will not work. (I guess it is hard to tell they are silver colored cause they are dirty.)
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2010, 07:07 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Once More (Only)

The Hand Primer Pump has Failed Internally...
AND is allowing AIR into the Fuel System.
(Whether you screw around with it or not!)

You will ,Unfortunately, have to replace it with a New one,sooner rather than
later...It will only FURTHER degrade.

'Happy for you that you got the Engine restarted.

Stop.

Out.
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  #21  
Old 01-11-2010, 03:41 AM
macdoe
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 759
Yes, I agree a new primer pump for all 3 of them I think. I don't want a repeat of that scenario. Very frustrating. I guess it is just one of those things that you have to have the correct part for and no mcguyvering around. , thanks again for your advice.

I see there are two types to get...with the newer one being sealed so that no unscrewing anything but just pump it. and then of course the original. which is the better unit?
thanks again for your advice.
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2010, 06:29 AM
whunter's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoe View Post
Yes, I agree a new primer pump for all 3 of them I think. I don't want a repeat of that scenario. Very frustrating. I guess it is just one of those things that you have to have the correct part for and no Mcguyvering around. , thanks again for your advice.

I see there are two types to get...with the newer one being sealed so that no unscrewing anything but just pump it. and then of course the original. which is the better unit?
thanks again for your advice.
IMO: the black spring loaded piston type is better/more durable.
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  #23  
Old 01-11-2010, 10:17 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,242
I would buy only the Bosch made New Style Hand Primer as I have read at least 4 occasions when the Febi made ones had problems. And, Bosch claims they use a Viton as the seal material.
The link to the Bosch ad their web site is in this thread:
New Style Hand Primers use with Bio Diesel

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