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#1
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I cannot get this bolt out
I cannot get this bolt out of the unibody underframe.
I tried drilling in a pilot hole, but the problem is when I put the bit onto the power drill the entire bolt moves upward into the frame. Apparently on the other side of the metal frame is some sort of metal that moves upward with the other bolt listed in the picture. I've taken a picture very poor of the offending bolt. I'm guessing the differential just hangs there. If I put my hand through the hole there is a piece of metal block me from grabbing this thing that the bolt screws into. Any suggestions? I've been digging through EPC for another way to attack this little son of a bolt but I can't get it.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. Last edited by whunter; 08-16-2010 at 03:59 PM. Reason: attached picture |
#2
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Your pic doesn't work.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
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Can you cut or grind the head off and push the bolt through? Where is it?
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#4
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How about now?
I can grab it with pliers but there is a piece of metal that the bolt attaches to inside of the unibody. I'm trying to find it in EPC, but it is more complicated then Pro Tools to find anything in it.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#5
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Is there enough of the bolt protruding that you could put vice grips or a clip on it, then drill into it? I.e., the vice grips would keep it from slipping back into the frame. Or you could put a thin nut on it. If I'm imagining the scenario right, that would hold it outward and you could drill into it, then back the entire bolt out, nut and all.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#6
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Quote:
Maki said it completely perfectly in the other thread. I need to get me a set of one of those. In the mean time. Is it safe for me to be driving with three fresh bolts holding the bracket in the differential up?
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#7
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I just posted to your other thread on this topic.
Basically, you should install the other bolt on the same side of the mount and crank it down tight. That will hold the carrier in place so you can apply some force to the broken bolt. And, again, I'd go after this with an external-type stud extractor instead of an ezy-out. No drilling required, and it should make the job a breeze if you have a quarter-inch or more of broken stud to work with. |
#8
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Yeah I'll go and get a set now.
In the mean time is it safe to bolt everything back up and drive with only three bolts in the sub frame?
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#9
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Answer
In EPC, section 35 (Rear Axle), 075 (Rear Axle Suspension), item 47
MB# 910106 008007 13 MM BOLT, USED TO HOLD DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT TO UNIBODY, FOUR PER CAR http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=910106008007 BRACKET, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT TO UNIBODY, TWO PER CAR MB# 115 351 05 40 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=1153510540 |
#10
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Yup that's the bolt. I found it in the EPC, but I could find the piece of metal it attaches to in the under body frame like Maki mentioned.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#11
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Captured metal plate that is threaded, not sure on the proper name but I know the bit you're talking about. If all else fails, you could cut the side of the "frame" section to make a piece that hinges up, and fish in the resulting hole to pull out the captured piece. Soak it at least overnight in a small tub of PB Blaster or another proper penetrant, then do as you sig suggests, and get the remaining bolt stub out or take it to a metalworking shop and have them copy it for you. That would probably only cost $25-$30 at a more expensive shop.
Once you get it fixed/re-created, slip the plate in and put the bolts in to ensure correct positioning, then bend the little flap back down and weld securely. I'd also weld a patch plate over the whole repair area, but that's at your discretion. Make sure you don't light anything on fire above the floor, or yourself laying underneath it. |
#12
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Bad idea
Quote:
The new bracket is $10.00 BRACKET, DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT TO UNIBODY, TWO PER CAR MB# 115 351 05 40 http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=1153510540 |
#13
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Quote:
Thanks a bunch for the help Roy
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
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