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  #16  
Old 01-14-2010, 10:57 PM
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That smell

What I wonder about is that if the smell of mildew goes away with the moisture? Once dry, are you STILL faced with "that smell" everytime it gets humid, or everytime you turn the heat up fullblast? I purchased
a 750.00 set of motorcycle leathers at garage sale that had mildew growing all over them for 20 bucks. They smelled really bad. Since they were only 20 bucks, I just threw them into my steam washer. After
a delicate steam cycle with a tiny bit of bleach, and a very slow 2 days
to dry on the line, they were like brand new. I just don't want to pull of the glue down carpets, if they don't stink when dry. Gimme a personal note here, heheh

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  #17  
Old 01-15-2010, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded View Post
I've done a 61 Corvette, a 51 Chevy convertible, a 66 GMC pickup, 8* Ford Courier, then that Dodge Ram that I broke TWO windshields on. That
drove me in humiliation,to hiring folks to do my windshields. I just want it done properly
I did the one in my 81 240d by myself without any sealant and the old gasket and it doesn't leak a drop! If I remember correctly though the FSM shows sealant used in the corners I think. If you decide to DIY let me know and I'll come help ya. It's actually not that hard.-Scott
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2010, 01:49 AM
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That's a lot of water even for a bad glass seal. Are you sure it's not coming from somewhere else? Mine was due to a rusted hole in the firewall under the battery tray. But this was only on the right side. Glass seal was not leaking. You could have problems with the hinge pockets on both sides.
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1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2010, 02:01 AM
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I wasn't aware of the need for butyl on this job, either.

If he's that good, and you really want him to do it.. I can send you some butyl from a neighboring state. Send me a message and we'll work it out.
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  #20  
Old 01-15-2010, 09:06 AM
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I'm not sure if the wagon is any different. But, I found the seats on the sedan to come out pretty easy. Now if the seat bolts and mounts are rusted... That is another story. I would definitely remove them if you had a leak. If anything, just so you can give the carpets a good cleaning, check for any water damage and fix/stop any rust, if the leak has been going on a long time.
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2010, 07:15 PM
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Water Leak SOLVED!

I was SO pissed that my windshield guy seemed to be blowing me off, right before this week's big series of storms are about to hit. I ordered
a Securit windshield and they sent a PPG. So I was out sticking 3M Strip
Caulk all over the windshield rubber. I got my neighbor to shoot a pressure
washer on that caulk job. No water for a bit, then it drip, dripped down
the driver's side wall right by my left foot, into that little pocket. I was
p**sed, bigtime. WTF? I layed on my back with a flashlight. Since there
is so much "padding" for noise in these W123s, I couldn't see where the water was coming from. Just like before, it HAD to be the windshield gasket. Erm, NOPE. It was a small rust hole right beside the hood spring
mount. Actually, my neighbor saw what was that MB selant flaking off.
I saw it as well when I purchased the car, but it didn't look that bad.
I removed the hoodspring today, and poked. Sure enough, when I was done, I had cleared ond poked a 2" square hole to the left of the driver's
side hood spring mount. I scraped and wire brushed, ripped off the sound padding on the inside and POR-15-ed, the inside and out, soaked a piece
of glass cloth in POR15 and patched the hole. In the morning I'll add a layer of "All-Metal" bondo, and cover with 3M undercoating. The left side
will get a good wire brushing and a coat of POR15, covered by 3M undercoating. Funny thing is that those drains seem to be higher than the back where the hoodspring mount is. So watch it people. Knowing what
I found today, it is a MUST DO, to remove the hood springs, clean really well, that whole area between the base of the hoodspring mount, and that drain hole, POR15 coat it, and spray with 3M undercoating.
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:27 PM
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Left/Right

Funny I've always had a problem with this. Just switch the two and my posts might make sense. At least look at BOTH sides of the INSIDE of the hood spring body mount. Even when I was fiying airplanes I had to double check the right left thing. Still alive to tell,hehe.
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2010, 02:42 AM
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I shouldn't say "I told you so" but I did in post #18.
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  #24  
Old 01-18-2010, 08:18 AM
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CR called it

CR from Texas mentioned those mount points and since it was such a PITA
to get the springs off, I just did a quick visual and didn't see the damage.
After testing the caulk job, I saw the leak, bit the bullet and took the spring off. At this point, since my car isn't a rust bucket, I'd say that
it is a must to probe that area with the spring out, for anyone with a W123. Debris can collect there easily and when it breaks down it will form acids. So people, unless you have been dillegent about cleaning there, you likely have rust eating away right now. Still have to figure out how to get the springs back on though. Is there a tool or technique that makes it easy?
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  #25  
Old 01-18-2010, 12:18 PM
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My driver's side hood drain was clogged. Shotting a power washer through quickly dislodged all of the crap.
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  #26  
Old 01-18-2010, 01:33 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded View Post
CR from Texas mentioned those mount points and since it was such a PITA
to get the springs off, I just did a quick visual and didn't see the damage.
After testing the caulk job, I saw the leak, bit the bullet and took the spring off. At this point, since my car isn't a rust bucket, I'd say that
it is a must to probe that area with the spring out, for anyone with a W123. Debris can collect there easily and when it breaks down it will form acids. So people, unless you have been dillegent about cleaning there, you likely have rust eating away right now. Still have to figure out how to get the springs back on though. Is there a tool or technique that makes it easy?
Don't understand the problem. Release the hood spring latch and go to the full up position. The springs are loose enough to just lift out and back in.
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  #27  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:14 PM
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Guess I missed

Somehow failed to see the "latch" properties of the hood hinge mechanisim. I'm gonna look when it stops raining, thanks
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  #28  
Old 01-18-2010, 07:44 PM
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A BIG DUH from me!

CR from Texas, I got home today opened the hood and couldn't believe
I missed the "trip switch" on the hood hinges!! Man is that gonna be cool
next time I adjust the valves. I can push the hood up out of the way now.
I sure hope I at least impressed y'all with my "quarter trick" getting the
springs out, without knowing about the "trip switch", lol. At least the problem is now solved, as it is raining bigtime all week long.
That is what is so great about this place, getting up to speed on a vehicle, without too much pain. I'd rather suffer the embarassment of getting the springs out with quarters, then quickly learn the proper way, than always doing wrong. I sure might try the frozen spring thing, just for kicks, as I think it was pretty creative, and I also think it would have worked, just not as easy as flipping that switch.
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  #29  
Old 01-18-2010, 08:00 PM
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BTW

It rained like heck all day. NO leak. Totally dry after an all day rain. Windshield gasket fine. It was all due to the rust hole in the spring pocket.
I re-installed the laundered carpets and the dry pads. I still get
a whiff of that damn mildew smell at times. I might have to remove the rest of the driver side carpets and launder them if it doesn't go away, but I'm so thankful that I no longer have a puddle when it rains. Check those
spring pockets. I'd bet they are the culprits in the majority of the floor rust outs.
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  #30  
Old 01-18-2010, 11:57 PM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoSparkNeeded View Post
CR from Texas, I got home today opened the hood and couldn't believe
I missed the "trip switch" on the hood hinges!! Man is that gonna be cool
next time I adjust the valves. I can push the hood up out of the way now.
I sure hope I at least impressed y'all with my "quarter trick" getting the
springs out, without knowing about the "trip switch", lol. At least the problem is now solved, as it is raining bigtime all week long.
That is what is so great about this place, getting up to speed on a vehicle, without too much pain. I'd rather suffer the embarassment of getting the springs out with quarters, then quickly learn the proper way, than always doing wrong. I sure might try the frozen spring thing, just for kicks, as I think it was pretty creative, and I also think it would have worked, just not as easy as flipping that switch.
Reminds me of the neighbor that called very late one night because the washing machine was out of balance, walking across the floor, and they couldn't turn it off.

I ran over and unplugged it for them!

Glad to help!

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1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=296386
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