|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Lost all vacuum
1989 190d auto
On my way home today I lost my power brakes. When I got home the engine would not shut off. I checked for vacuum and there was none. Plugged off small line and checked in bake booster line. NO vacuum What is the next step?? Thank You
__________________
1989 Arctic White 190D 2.5l auto w/400E Brakes and a 5spd waiting for me to install 1977 280SL Euro M110/w 4spd 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad cab 4x4 dyno 383hp / 916ft#'s |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I'm not as familiar with your particular model but I believe there is a main check valve on the pump itself. If it fails the whole system loses vacuum and might be the next place to check.
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
The vacuum pump has a small fitting and a large fitting. The large fitting connects to a hose that goes to the brake booster. Along the hose is a check valve with a barb for the engine shut-off vacuum switch behind the key switch. You didn't mention whether there is vacuum available for AC and the transmission which are supplied, as it were, by the small fitting on the pump. It's possible the pump is weak and can muster enough for the small users but not the garden hose to the brake booster.
I don't know how to test the pump other than to remove the brake booster hose (19mm wrench) and check for vacuum right at the source. Don't cover the fitting with your finger to test because that's a seriously able pump when functioning! If you don't get any vacuum through the small fitting (okay to use a finger to test here) I'd say it's time to pull the pump. The pump is held against the front of the engine by 6 bolts that take a 10mm socket. Loosen each bolt a turn at a time since there's spring pressure against the pump. Hopefully the pump innards didn't come apart sending bits into the timing chain. There are no rebuild kits for this style of pump. You'll have to replace it if it isn't working. It's about $350 for a Pierburg brand pump, Maybe $200 for an unknown brand or unbranded pump. Make sure the replacement pump has the updated drive roller with shielded bearings. The original drive roller has exposed bearings in a plastic cage. The cage disintegrates over time allowing the bearings to escape the race and fall into the timing chain! You can usually identify a redesigned pump by 4 bolt heads on the front cover. There are pumps with these bolt heads but the old style drive roller so always check! Sixto 87 300D |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
I don't know if it is associated but every time I change the oil (3 times ), I've had issues with vacuum for about a week afterwards.
Did not get a chance to work on the car, but enjoyed driving the truck with its 900 ft#'s of torque
__________________
1989 Arctic White 190D 2.5l auto w/400E Brakes and a 5spd waiting for me to install 1977 280SL Euro M110/w 4spd 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad cab 4x4 dyno 383hp / 916ft#'s |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Replaced vacuum pump and everything is back to normal other than it not charging the battery. I've changed the oil and no vacuum issues.
__________________
1989 Arctic White 190D 2.5l auto w/400E Brakes and a 5spd waiting for me to install 1977 280SL Euro M110/w 4spd 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad cab 4x4 dyno 383hp / 916ft#'s |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Anything out of the ordinary with the old pump? Can we trouble you for a picture of the unseen side of the pump?
Thanks, Sixto 87 300D |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Your expectations for your new vacuum pump might be a bit optimistic.
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
The Vacuum had Catastrophic Failure. I'll try to get pictures if I did not throw out. I replaced over a month ago.
__________________
1989 Arctic White 190D 2.5l auto w/400E Brakes and a 5spd waiting for me to install 1977 280SL Euro M110/w 4spd 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad cab 4x4 dyno 383hp / 916ft#'s |
Bookmarks |
|
|