I tryed to remove my front passenger wheel on the 240D, and it won't come off! It almost seems as though the hub has swollen and it's not allowing the wheel to slide off of it. The wheel isn't rusted to the hub, because it will wobble, but it won't come off.

I even tried taking a hammer to the backside of the wheel, but I couldn't get it to budge. Also, when I spin the wheel, it hangs up slightly at one spot in the rotation, and makes a sorta "squishy" sound. I'm assuming this means the bearing is bad. Could a bad bearing cause the hub to swell?? I need replace my brake pads ASAP, so this is kind of a problem.

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

how big of a hammer are you using?

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Allen Kroliczek
Oak Grove Autosport | Oak Grove Autosport
01 G500, 82 300TD, quite a few more.....

A bad bearing could cause the hub to get hot and warp.

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If the wheel can't be knocked off (maybe something is wedged in between the inside of the wheel and rotor), try: If you can wobble the wheel, can you turn it slightly to gain access to the rotor retaining screw through a lug nut hole? If so, remove then take off the caliper bolts and brake line so the whole assembly comes off.

All this said, I am doing this from memory so I am not responsible for forgetting why this crazy idea won't work..

You are talking about the actually wheel and not just the rotor, right?

The squishy noise you hear would seem to me to be more likely associated with the brake. And, if the bearing was that shot, you would feel some serious wheel bearing roughness and wobble as you rotated the wheel.

To get it off, lower the jack until the wheel is touching the ground and bearing some slight weight. I have a hydraulic bottle jack for this, which is much more stable than the MB screw jack that comes with the car. Block the car up at that point with wood so it won't fall over when the wheel comes off. Let the jack down to put the car's weight on the blocks of wood. Then turn the wheel a bit, back and forth. Start the car if you have to. I had a new wheel stick on a C230 and no amount of kicking and banging worked. This did.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

If it is the rotor and not the "wheel" then he's right, use a bigger hammer (and put ear plugs in). I just changed the rotors on my daughter's 190e and it took a "big" hammer to beat them off from the backside while rotating.

Ok, so I lower it, raise it, turn it slightly, repeat?

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

I just had the same problem on my 123 wagon - pry between wheel and hub from backside, rotate and tap with hammer and spray Deep Creep or other - When wheel comes off, clean hub survace and apply light grease or other to prevent future problems like this - good luck!

A bigger hammer is the answer.... or....


remove all the lug nuts.
slowly lower the jack.
the camber change as the wheel is lowered should help pry it off.
DON'T LOWER IT TOO FAR.
just get some weight on it, with the lugs removed, then beat and bang on it.

or...

Jack it up, so the wheel is in the air.
sit down and 'kick it like a donkey'....
yup.. sounds stupid.. but it's that or a bigger hammer.


clean off your hubs and grease them really lightly...
then it won't happen again.

btw... everything mentioned above... is at your own risk.

i had the same problem... the issue in my case is the wheel since its now stuck on the rear... are your wheels steel? mine are and i think that it was over tightened at some point in its life causing it to warp slightly... i am on the lookout for another wheel or a set of bundts at the pull a part this weekend

Is this steel or aluminum wheel were talking about? A steel wheel just get behind it with a baby sledge and whack, rotate, whack, rotate, rinse repeat.

If it's aluminum I would spray it down through the lug holes and then kick the tire with your feet (wearing boots) while you are sitting on the ground. You can also use the sledge but be more gentle and do it to the inside edge, not the outside.

good luck

steve a

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Steve A
92 W140 OM603
97 VW Jetta TDI
90 Passat variant TDI 6 speed MT
94 Chevy K1500 6.5TD
05 E320 CDI
+ others

Loosen the bolts slightly, drive the car forward and backward, each time slamming the brakes on. It'll move.

get someone to hold the brake with the wheel off the ground,spray some penetrating oil on it where it meets the hub,while the helper holds his/her foot on the brake try rotationg the wheel back and forth and wiggling it you might get lucky.The only good thing about lug bolts instead of studs and nuts. Don

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Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

I had good luck heating the wheel (rim) where it contacts the hub. Two things happen, the expansion of the wheel breaks any rust freexzing the wheel and the expansion would give you just a hair's more room. Mind you I'm not getting the rim cherry red hot!

I hate beating the wheel but have when all else fails...usually frustrated enough to get out the 8 lbs. sledge and (with the lug bolts out) whack it....heaven knows the rest of the suspension don't like it!