1983 300D 132kmiles.

I've found two more oil leaks in addition to the area of the vacuum pump, which I will be working soon.

The first one is at the seal in the upper oil pan the goes to the turbo drain tube. Does anyone know if you can change this seal without removing the whole turbo oil drain tube...the nuts at the turbo that connect the pipe look rusted and in a bad location to get to. Is it possible to just raise the tube to get enough clearance to replace the seal in the top of the upper oil pan?

The second leak is at the air cleaner to pan oil return line. Mine seems to be leaking at both the top and bottom. I put new o rings on both ends, but for some reason I can't mount the air cleaner on the car and connect the air cleaner connection when the bottom is fully connected. It looks like my pipe is either bent or too short, or my air cleaner isn't mounting correctly. The three rubber shock mounts for the air cleaner look good, but I don't know if they are the correct ones...previous owner did these.

Thanks for any advice.

Joe

The way I did it was to remove the complete exh/intake manifolds and the turbo. I had to replace all the rubber O-rings that you make referece to to stop my oil leaks. On the return line from the separator I got my o-ring from a Catapiller diesel engine sales rep and just matched up the diameter/size. You will need to get the rubber MB "insert" that goes into the top of the oil pan. I found it easier to replace once I removed the "small" front oil pan.

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Jim

I hope I don't have to remove everything to get to the turbo oil return tube gasket, o rings, and seal on the upper pan. I can see the two bolts (or nuts) where the tube mounts to the turbo and maybe I can get a socket on them with all of my extensions and a universal joint, working from the bottom.

I put some liquid wrench on bolts/nuts and will let them sit awhile before I give it a try. They look really rusted, possibly because of the heat.

If anyone has any other suggestions on how to remove and replace the turbo oil return line seal at the upper oil pan, I'm all ears.

thanks
Joe

Is there any oil leaking from inbetween the oil filter housing and the block? It is fairly common for leaks to develop here. There are two gaskets, one between the housing and the block and the other between two halves of the housing. Get both seals, remove the entire housing and clean it up good and reseal it. Use a little RTV (I prefer Wurth Sensor Safe) on the gaskets, spread it evenly with your finger. It will produce a leak-tight seal!

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Regards,
Aaron

I wouldn't put any sealant on the oil filter housing gaskets -- I think they are "sticky" from the factory -- sealant impregnated. They are for the W115s.

If sealant gets squeezed out into the pressure side oil passage and breakes off, it will starve something of oil, like a main bearing or crankpin, ruining the engine. This happened to the 75 300D my brother has -- #2 main was spinning in the block. Not pretty. Eventually scored the crank, and it broke at 65 mph on the highway.

If you feel you absolutely cannot live without sealant on those gaskets, use a very thin coat of "aircraft" permatex (the red stuff with a brush in the can). Only enough coat the gasket. RTV will be too thick, and squeeze out.

peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!