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Sticky gas pedal in morning cold
Son says when he starts up the 240D and drives in the morning his pedal is sticky. Presses it and it wants to stay down...has to punch it to get it back to idle. Once warm, the issue goes away. Something need some silicon spray or hanging up somehow? Thoughts? It's not terribly cold, between 20 and 30 most mornings.
Thanks!
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You're a daisy if you do. __________________________________ 84 Euro 240D 4spd. 220.5k sold 04 Honda Element AWD 1985 F150 XLT 4x4, 351W with 270k miles, hay hauler 1997 Suzuki Sidekick 4x4 1993 Toyota 4wd Pickup 226K and counting |
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What's a "gas pedal?"
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#3
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Brian your posts highlights a very interesting debate among Ph.Ds in the English language. The two camps tend to fall into a rather strict usage of english or a lax free use.
Technically the term "gas pedal" can mean both gas,diesel, liquid hydrogen, trash, etc. As long as pressing down on such pedal moves the vehicle forward. I prefer the term "Go Pedal". It's funny, short, and the funny look people give me when they see my car continues when I tell them about my go pedal. Oh and your original problem. try lubricanting your throttle linkages with some ATF. That will help with your sticky pedal.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#4
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ATF fluid. Lube your linkage. Had similar issue lubed linkage all is well.
I like the term accelerator pedal but "go" pedal works.
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
#5
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ATF fluid is what is recommended in the manual...
but you may need to clean whatever else was used in the past... often white grease is used and cold and time will cause the multiple spots to add up to sticking.. ALSO , check the spring down on the firewall which attaches to the mess of segments used to increase your engine speed....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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I had a similar problem. I lubed up everything under the hood and it did nothing.
In the end it wound up being the metal rod that contacts the back of the accelerator pedal. The area was dry and sticky. I lubed the back of the pedal with some grease and the pedal quit sticking. Also, if that carpet around the pedal is not properly secured, it can cause a WOT situation. So, be sure the pedal does not contact the carpet at all. Especially to the right side along the trans. tunnel.
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) |
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Quote:
Clean up the joints before re-lubing them. Also check to make sure that it's not binding anywhere
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
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I need to replace the pivot arn in the firewall.Atf works,but now rain water leaks a little water.Water I taste everything.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#9
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Lube the throttle linkage after removing any rust inside the ball joints and cleaning them thoroughly.
Then check the pedal linkages too and bushing. Make sure the levers on the valve cover are also lubed. Good call on the spring. On another car, the spring was missing and the pedal did not want to return back.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
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