1987 300sdl cylinder head bolt torque specs
 

can any one tell me or where to look for the torque sequence for a 1987 cylinder head bolts. thanks the number on the head are 3 016 22 01

Interesting, a #16 head?

http://www.ps2cho.net/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/Index/602_603/01General.htm

Should be in 01-5800hx (Removal and installation of cylinder head or the tightening diagram), for the 603 engine.

603 016 XX 01 the upgrade version of the cylinder head casting is identified by the X's, in this case that appears to be #22

Thanks for that correction, I was reading too fast :rolleyes:

It also appears that the W124 CD / online link I sent is pretty useless for the bolt sequence, you can't read them on the pdfs... :o

ok i got the tighten order down. it has the 4 stage process but it has the first two in 15 nm and then 35nm then 90 degrees. what does the nm equal to on the ft lb torque wrench? i don't have a torque wrench that does the nm. after i torque to 35nm (whatever the equls to on ft lbs) then 90 degrees does that mean a quarter of a turn? and wait ten min then another quarter turn? also what is the ft lb on the cam bolts and the cam gear bolt? thank you

i would like to thank you all for all your help you people are wonderful on helping out. i got everything converted one more question and i hop eto not be such a bother. what is it refering to when it says tighten at a 90 degree angle? thanks again

Thanks again for all the help, t i found my answer on another post:)

There are 3 iterations of torquing you do.

1st iteration: Following the sequence laid out in the diagram for the 14 head bolts, you torque them to 55 N*m (about 41 lb*ft).

2nd iteration: Starting over at Bolt #1, you goe through the torque sequence again, only this time don't use a torque wrench. Switch over to a breaker bar so you don't damage your torque wrench, or else set your torque wrench as high as it goes. You then tighten each bolt in sequence with a 90 degree rotation. No torque measured, just tighten the bolt 90 degrees, or 1/4 turn.

3rd iteration: Start over at Bolt#1 and repeat, tightening all 14 bolts again, in the proper sequence, another 1/4 turn or 90 degrees. Then you are done.

This is what I mean by 'torque to yield' bolts, or also called angle torquing. You are actually going beyond the elastic region of the bolt material's stress, into the plastic region. Once you get to the yield point, the torque will actually change very little as the bolt gets stretched. This is why it is important to either replace the bolts, or make damn sure they are within the specified allowable stretch limit before you start.

Reviving this thread. I'm going to pull my 603's #14 head tomorrow. I have the factory CD but I can't for the life of me read the numbers on most of the bolts for the torque/un-torque sequence. I've searched here to no end, rather each diagram is the same one as I already have and no clearer.

Can someone please steer me in the direction where I could find clear numbering!

Thanks.

Rob

remove the camshaft and the allen cap bolts in the timing cavity.

begin removing head bolts on a cold engine by starting at one end of the engine. Remove the 2 bolts in that row which is transverse to the crankshaft.

move to the next row on the opposite side of the engine and loosen the bolts in that row.

---just work your way in from the firewall and radiator until you finish in the center of the engine.

I like to break the bolts free with a 1/4 turn before loosening completely, but its not called for.

Thanks JT20.

here is the info for torque and sequence

That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks.