1500 miles on 80 300D Turbo
 

HEy gang just got back from 2 consecutive 500 mile trips in my 85 300 with 264k.

the following is a list of problems that need addressing. thanks for your help and thanks for this site.

Valve job much needed . i have the wrenchs and instructions, they came with the car. can i do this job myself??

injector return lines leaking. what is the besst source for this part? how do i a make the stub end?

low power on the uphills? will power greatly increase with new return lines.

one blade off fan broken.

Cruise control intermittent. it did work now it dont??


wont go over 80 mph?? car running at 3500rpm. is there another gear that it is not engaging??

Return lines can be bought from All Parts Express or Fast Lane, located in the "buy parts" Tab at the top of the page

Have you changed the fuel filters (both of them) lately?

Are you running straight proper diesel?

Is it an 85 or an 80?

You can get the return line on this site. see above, can get other parts there too.
Replace your fan, broken blade>out of balance>trouble. Maybe one from a junk yard would be ok.
When was your last oil change/ service?
When you are up to date on maintenance, then worry about top speed.

The stub end on the fuel return lines can be bought new in the parts tab above, or just slice the hose and remove it to the new piece of hose stub.

Be careful that you don`t knick one of the hose barbs on the injectors if one of the hoses becomes difficult to remove.they can be damaged easily and are not repairable. then you could have a leaky fitting.

usually just pull off the old, and push on the new. be sure to use the proper fuel hose. You can get here in the buy parts tab above. I have also picked it up at NAPA in a pinch.

there is a line connected to the rear of the intake manifold, the other end connects to the switch over valve on the firewall, drivers side. then the line goes to the ALDA on the injection pump. the square thing.

remove the banjo fitting on the rear of the manifold, probably gunked up with black goo. blow the line out with brake cleaner and a air hose, blow it from the switch over valve. stick it in a rag to catch the mess. clean the banjo fitting.

get your valves adjusted, change the fuel filters, change the oil/filter. check the end of the shaft on the oil filter lid for the 2 little "O" rings. there either missing or hard as a rock.

the spin on fuel filter (the secondary) fill it first to the brim, then replace it. save you some headaches trying to bleed it. the bolt is a 22mm I think, loosen it then unscrew the filter. your 85 will have 2 "O" rings on the bolt to seal the filter. some on her will say you need a crush washer under the bolt, you don`t.

lubricate the ball and sockets for the linkage, they get dry & stiff.

replace that fan, quickly.

there`s more, but it`s late :sleeping:

Charlie

This is not a difficult job. Any DIY'er with a modicum of mechanical ability can accomplish the task. Just get yourself the proper wrenches and feeler gauges then follow the instructions found in the DIY section on this site. The tools will pay for themselves the first time you do this job without having to pay someone.

thanks for all the info.

the oil service has been done as well as the inline filters.

the car came with wrenches and a couple of gaskets for doing the valve adjustment.

it is an 85 and i am running straight diesel with an additive. What fuel should i run, every side of this debate has good arguments.

Depends on whether he's talking about a valve job or valve adjustment. Valve job is more involved & will require access to a machine shop. The 2 procedures should not be confused or even spoken about with the same nomenclature. Clarity goes a long way.

True enough Junkman. I made the assumption that the OP was referring to a valve adjustment.

When you remove this fitting note there are two washers on either side of the fitting. The one that goes against the manifold often gets lost when removing.

Valve Adjustment.

You need to take the fan blade seriously. With it partially broken it can do further damge due to it being off balance.

after closer inspection one blade is partially broken and after advise from this forum i will not drive the car until this is resolved, unless i run out of beer.

i will tackle the valve adjustment next week. any secrets, tricks or trouble spots?

also i thought i had an oil leak but i think now it is due to the leaky return lines running down and washing the oil off the lower engine. we will see if my theory holds after the lines are replaced.

If you do need to drive the vehicle, either remove the fan or break off all the other blades. Just keep an eye on the temp guage.

wow seriously .?? i have driven the car 100 miles i n the last couple weeks.

Oh yes, I forgot about the 2 washers. the bolt that screws through the banjo is about an inch long or so. slowly pull it out and look for the inner washer, and catch it before clearing the bolt from the hole.
I have dropped a couple even being careful.

Charlie