Sorry, Don.

I got the time wrong as I was in the central zone this past weekend buying the 300TDT.

My daughter's appoint is at 8:00 AM in Rockford. Is that OK?

Again, will call you to confirm later.

Well, I have to do this 0 - 60 test with my 300TDT.

Once it warms up this morning, I tried it. I could not believe it, it was 11.9 seconds to 60 by using a stop watch!

That is a pretty good time, to me, for a diesel.

What are yours? Is the sedan a little faster due to the slightly lighter weight?

I'm looking at the underhood picture of your car. You have a bottle on the driver's side that I don't have. See attached crop of your photo with arrow.

What goes in here?

Ken300D

Attached Thumbnails

 

That's the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid for the self leveling rear suspension.

That will work fine. Standing by for call. I'll call you if you don't get through on my cell.

The TD is getting excited.

Don

__________________
DAILY DRIVERS:
'84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's)
'99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's)
'97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's)
'97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's)
'96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's
'84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion)

SOLD:
'82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed

jcyuhn is correct, Ken300D. That is the reservoir of the hydraulic fluid for the self leveling rear suspension. The fluid looked dark and I want to change it. What is a good fluid other than "from the dealer"?

Don: Good. I will give you a ring.

You can see I am pretty excited about this old wagon. I have some nice updates.

I changed to 10W-40 oil temporarily. Will changed it out again after I ran a tank of fuel with Techron. WOW, the idle is much smoother and the noise is also reduced. Maybe the dealer out in some 20W-50 in there.

I did the EGR thing. Have not run it fast yet but it does not seem to affect anything now. Also near the EGR vacuum hose and below it, there is another vacuum hose. Is that the Air Recirculating hose? It definitely looked like some emission control device.

Thanks to everyone.

OK - I wouldn't have that with the sedan.

Performance Products sells Febi brand hydraulic suspension fluid for $9.74 per liter. I am looking at my W123 catalog and you could go to their W124 catalog online. The W123 takes 3.5 liters to do a change.

They have a little writeup about the TD suspension systems. "The suspension fluid and filter should be changed once a year. This will make sure no contaminants are present in the system. Changing the fluid and filter is the easiest way to protect your struts from premature wear and replacement."

Seems to me the Haynes W123 manual has a procedure for changing the fluid. It would probably apply (loosely) to the W124 as well.

Just make sure the spec on the fluid didn't change from W123 to W124. Obviously if you order from the W124 catalog it should be OK.

If I were you I'd change out the rear differential fluid too. I can recommend the Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil.

Ken300D

Ken300D:

Thanks.

I have the 124 chassis manual (two volumes) so I will look that up. I will also pick up a Haynes manual for the 123 series at Pep Boys next time as the engine stuffs are pretty much the same. Hope they still have them.

Yes, differential fluid change is next. I have some Redline 75W90 left (little less than 2 qts) from my other cars so will put it in. This differential makes no noise (my 1991 300E whines).

Yup, the other vacuum line over near the EGR is for the air recirculating valve. I find that my '87 TDT runs much, much, much... better with that disconnected as well.

Be careful to use only the correct fluid in the suspension. Parts of the system use rubber hoses, and there are rubber diaphrams in the nitrogen cells. The wrong fluid can attack the rubber parts, causing failure of the system. My local MB dealer charges an absurd $20/liter, but better prices are available elsewhere. I think George Murphy of the MBCA sells it for five or six bucks a liter. I don't have his number handy, but you can dig it up in the archives of the mercedes mailing list - http://www.mercedesmailinglist.com The aftermarket fluid will likely be FEBI brand - Ferdinand E. Bilstein Company - that's definately the right stuff.

The engines between the 123 and 124 are completely different - the former used the OM617, the latter the OM603. I don't think there's a single common part.

Both filters are to be replaced at 30K mile intervals. Fill the main filter with diesel while installing to minimize cranking time afterwards. (The 124 diesel doesn't have the hand primer pump.)

'Nuff rambling.

- Jim

Thanks, jcyuhn.

Will get some MB or DEBI fluid and do a fluid change.

How often would you recommend this fluid chage? I do not see it in the owner's manual.

Hi Loubapache,

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for your wagon? I'm wondering because I have my eye on a 124 wagon "fixer upper" and would like to have an idea of what one in good condition goes for, as far as a recent realistic sale price. Thanks

~George~

George:

I'll email you now.

What does the air recirculating valve do?

Also, if anyone can help, I am trying to find the oil pressure sender on my '87 300D sedan. I'm having a problem with it because the oil pressure gauge pegs at 3 as soon as the ignition switch is turned on. I see something I think might be the oil level alert sender - can't find the oil pressure sender.

I would agree that the W123 Haynes book isn't going to help you at all with the W124 car. I just mentioned the W123 book because the general drain and refill for the hydraulic suspension might be similar.

Thanks, Ken300D

The shop manual states the air recirculating valve is used to control the boost level to better suit the demands of the trap oxidiser. That's about all there is. Based on my own observations, I believe it is used to lower the boost level, presumably to increase exhaust gas temperatures to get the trapox up to operating temperature. Try disconnecting it and see how the car drives. You can't hurt the engine - the overboost protection is still in place.

I can email the instructions for the fluid change. I don't recall whether there are specific flush/change instructions in the MB manual, but I have some from an MB mailing list a few years back. It's an easy task.

I don't know where the oil pressure sender is on the 603 engine.

- Jim

Ken300D:

I do not have a picture for the 603 engine but I have one for the 602. I assume they are similar.

The pressure send (for the gauge) is at the bottom of the oil filter housing on the driver side. There is a seal between it and the housing. It looks that it will run about $40.

I know about the manuals. I was saying that the 123 diesel manual would help me identify some of the parts on the 603 engines. I have the full set of MB manuals for 124 (have two gas 300Es).