Are there any instructions on how to remove the IP timer / timing device on a '82 300D.

I have the MB CD manual, but finding stuff on it is not for the faint of heart, I could not find anything that explains how to remove it. I also have the Haynes book...

I want to take a look at it to make sure there is no play and that it has not been damaged by a failed vacuum pump (because of the balls I found in the oil pan, see my other thread).

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'82 300D (project)
'46 Willys (project)
"Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20
"Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20
"Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve
"no" -kerry
"At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40

I believe the Haynes manual does cover that, even has a pic of all the parts, Getting the T/D past the timing chain is the tricky part. How much "lateral" play is there?

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Just by trying to pull on it by hand - no discernable lateral play.

But, there were metal balls in my oil pan. The vacuum pump is not missing any balls, and there is knock in the engine, so I want to check as much as I can...

After I eliminate the timing device, my next step is to pull the head off and see if the piston is hitting something. Like a valve with a weak spring.

__________________

'82 300D (project)
'46 Willys (project)
"Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20
"Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20
"Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve
"no" -kerry
"At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40

There's a long thread on here by a guy with a W116 who removed the timing device when his IP failed after revving it high. Lots of pictures too I think.

Here it is:
300SD woes Injection Pump Timing device

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Cool good thread, also I found the directions in Haynes and on the CD.

While doing this, how do I make sure the chain stays in the same position on the crankshaft sprocket? By keeping constant tension on it?

__________________

'82 300D (project)
'46 Willys (project)
"Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20
"Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20
"Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve
"no" -kerry
"At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40

Its doubtful after taking the engine that far apart that you will be able to get away without timing it when your done. One thing is that with the T/D removed the engine wont "jump" when your turning it over. You might try "zip" tying the chain to the sprocket but I would time the engine for good measure when your done anyway. You should check the chain for stretch, perhaps its time to replace it while your in there.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"