revitalization checklist for newly purchased 85TD - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Biodiesel300TD · #16 02-14-2010, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

Can I swap supply and return lines on a wagon like you can on sedans to bypass the intank screen?

Yes, you can switch the lines. The tank itself comes out from the bottom.
Other than the tank itself the fuel system is build the same on the sedans and wagons. The tank screen in a wagon is in the bottom of the tank, but the fuel supply does not come directly out of the screen like in the sedan. There is a barb on the bottom front edge of the tank that is the supply. You need a 22mm allen to get the screen out. Here are a couple pic that show the screen. There is a false bottom in a small section of the wagon tank that goes from the screen to the supply barb.

JB3 · #17 02-14-2010, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

The SLS is kind of a cantankerous system. It is comprised of the pump, which is on the head, the reservoir, the height adjusting valve, the struts, and the accumulators. Any movement in the lever arm on the valve is what causes the system to go up or down.
The first thing I would check the the fluid level in the reservoir.
The most common issue is a saggy rear that is caused by a leak in the system. It will typically sag over night while sitting and then rise up when you start the car. The SLS valve is the most common leak spot. It can leak internally or you may see it leaking. It sounds like you might have leaks elsewhere as well. The struts could be leaking, or the connections at the accumulators and/or struts could be leaking. I'd check all the connections and wipe everything down to help locate the leak. I have O-ring kits for re-sealing the SLS valve let me know if you are interested. More info here SLS Valve O-ring Replacement DIY
The next most common issue is a bouncy and/or hard ride in the rear. This is the accumulators. They have a rubber diaphragm inside the gives out over time. One side of the accumulator is gas and the other side(the side with the hydraulic line) has SLS fluid. When the diaphragm tears the whole accumulator fills with fluid and the ride goes to pot.
Another less common problem is the rear not lifting when it's loaded, this is an issue with the pump. The pumps can be rebuilt. Prepare to give and one arm, one leg, one testicle, and bend over to get a new one, they are around $1500 new. You do get to chose which arm, leg, and testicle though so thats good

Fortunately it's fairly uncommon for them to completely break, they tend to start leaking instead. Which is a much cheaper fix.

Cripes! After reading this, and looking under there, I feel the most prudent act on my part is to move the components of this system into a box on a shelf rather than remain on the car. The condition of the lines have me worried, they are highly corroded, and the connections to the valve and everything else are corroded as well. A couple of tentative touches have me showered with rust flakes and debris. The lines certainly need to be replaced in addition to the leaking.

I have ordered propigskins springs.

Thanks for this great screen diagram! Im trying to get it started reliably today.

JB3 · #18 02-14-2010, 06:46 PM

Failed to get it started, but there is some definite improvement. It ran and came to my driveway, and I think its decided its happy where it sits.

Replaced the primer pump, primary and secondary fuel filters, and swapped the fuel lines (thanks biodiesel300TD).

Did not start for two reasons, 1, battery is weak and Ill get that charged tomorrow and 2, the fuel in the tank, even with my additional 5 gallons of fresh diesel, is so horrible that it needs to be completely drained and disposed of. 3+ year old diesel and what appears to be kerosene. A very dark amber color with some soot and debris

I have good fuel pressure now with no immediate leaks, and it feels like it will start soon even on this crap. The goal here is to get this thing out of the snow and into my garage 50 feet away so I can begin working on it more easily.

Biodiesel300TD · #19 02-14-2010, 06:49 PM

You can always stick your supply and return lines into a fresh can of diesel in the engine bay to get it running to move it the 50ft.

JB3 · #20 02-14-2010, 06:59 PM

thats what im thinking, tomorrow Ill buy another batch of fresh diesel and some hose.

Theres an issue with the hood hinge which also needs to be fixed before it does some damage to the fender. Also, it would be nice if the hood stayed open! Ill take care of that tomorrow too.

Biodiesel300TD · #21 02-14-2010, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

Theres an issue with the hood hinge which also needs to be fixed before it does some damage to the fender. Also, it would be nice if the hood stayed open! Ill take care of that tomorrow too.

A hood that won't stay open is certainly no fun. Last thing you need when working on the car is a hood smashing you on the back of the head, thats a good way to ruin your day.

markho · #22 02-15-2010, 08:54 AM

aside from the SLS system, something you want to pay attention to are the window seals around your wagon. Check your carpets after a good rain. Push on your windshield at the corners and check for play too.

JB3 · #23 02-15-2010, 12:04 PM

good idea, there is definite water getting into the car and collecting in the driver side rear seat foot well. Ill check the windshield and look at the rubber seals for all windows. It has a manual sunroof, (big selling point for me) so I will have to check the drains for that as well right?

the things to do to this car are starting to exceed my legal pad repair sheet!

Biodiesel300TD · #24 02-15-2010, 12:34 PM

Don't let the SLS scare you. While it is expensive to replace parts, most of the system is pretty durable, so don't need replacing very often. The most common issues I've see is a leaking SLS valve, and blown high pressure hose on the pump, and bad accumulators. The accumulators a $100 a pop, but the other two are cheap. I'd make sure the reservoir is full and drive the car a bit. It may not need much other than a valve rebuild and some accumulators.

JB3 · #25 02-15-2010, 01:13 PM

What scares me is the long term $$$$, not so much the idea of the system!

I want this thing to be a keeper, so I am simplifying a lot of stuff on it. For instance, another plan will be to convert all windows to manual crank and going to manual, non A/C climate control.

Heres the way I see it. I live in a highly corrosive area of the country, CNY, and I hope to put this thing in daily service for road trips year round.

(I have a rusty winter truck for around town, but I want to turn this into a ski and road trip car, so it won't sit idle most of the winter and will see heavy salt with reasonable passenger and equipment loads)

If I can get a pair of springs and shocks that will do the job and give me the wagon space for 300 bucks and a one time swap, why would I retain an expensive, complex, and totally exposed to the weather hydraulic system?

Basic estimate from looking down there would be rebuilding the valve, replacing all under car lines, replacing the accumulators, weatherproofing all of this stuff, and waiting for it to break in the same way again during my ownership.

I don't see that the SLS adds materially to load and tow capabilities with the right springs and shocks instead. Never had a system like it in my volvo wagon or any of my MB sedans, yet they towed great, loaded up great, and best of all, were maintenance free. Of course the volvo was a different rear suspension concept, but that level of one time repair is what Im shooting for.

Ill try out propigskins springs and see how I like them. He reports no complaints. For 225 bucks I would otherwise be spending on repairing part of the SLS, it feels like a prudent experiment to me. The SLS can always go back on later if I don't like the ride or cargo capacity.

markho · #26 02-15-2010, 01:17 PM

time to get the popcorn

I think that your hitting on a much debated topic.

JB3 · #27 02-15-2010, 01:24 PM

uh oh.

JB3 · #28 02-16-2010, 05:03 PM

was a total failure trying to get this thing into the garage again!

It seemed like there was some evil force out to keep this thing out of the garage, consistent snow, ice, broken battery charger, not long enough power cord, ect!

The car is parked under a large tree, and at a certain level of snow collection on the branches during todays snowfall, it all would come down in an avalanche, timed perfectly with every single time I was getting out of the car! I haven't had this much snow down the back of my shirt since I was in pre school.

The only good thing after 3 hours of nonsense is I was able to clear out the engine of the bad fuel.

My walmart battery charger is useless junk, so the battery must come out and be charged, the car must be plugged in, and THEN, it might feel up to moving across the driveway. It was an extremely frustrating waste of free time.

Pic of one of the snow avalanche events