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  #1  
Old 01-30-2010, 07:55 PM
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OM606: To rebuild or not to rebuild......

That is now my dilemma. Mechanic's diagnosis of spun rod bearing, or something else gone in the bottom end. Cheapest used engine I could find was $1800 plus shipping. Condition unknown. For the same amount, I can order new parts and rebuild it myself. Then I know what I've got. I've rebuilt an MGB and a Toyota R22 engine with success. Can't afford a new car right now.

Should I attempt this by myself? I have some tools & and engine stand.

Is this an difficult engine to rebuild? Hate to junk such a nice car.

Where do I find shop manuals? I have a WIS disc but can't get it to work on my computer.
Any suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 01-30-2010, 08:20 PM
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Spend more effort to locate a known good engine. For eighteen hundred plus shipping and no indication of the shape it's in I would not touch that used engine. You might want to price a rebuilt short block as well.

I guess you could pull the engine and hope the crank is repairable one way or another if the journal is damaged. Follow through on a check of the rods. Especially the one that spun as that rod might have to be replaced. A new set of rod bearings may see you back on the road. I guess you have no choice but to go in and have a look.

I suspect good used 606s are scarce depending on where in the country you live. Also if you were to have one journal repaired you want a really good automotive machine shop to do it. Not an average run of the mill one.

The quality of the welding and type of welding rod used is critical if it is going to last well. In Canada we have one shop in Montreal that does all the expensive auto machine work for all the high line dealers across Canada who mean business. That indicates to me that there may be ten simular ones across the states based on population comparisons.

Funny thing is they do not overcharge as the really hard stuff done properly is their everyday work load. You have to locate them though.

Usually anything difficult or needing done really properly is shipped to them by the lesser automotive machine shops as well. Of course they then take credit for the work they did not do usually and add their heavy charge to the real bill. It is generally just a fact of life.

Last edited by barry123400; 01-30-2010 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:34 PM
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I would not bother rebuilding when a motor has run out of oil. Everything will have suffered some life shortening damage even if it is not bad enough to need repairing now, it may come back later to haunt you.
Try thinking outside the box, is there a motor other than a 606 that will go straight in?
Good luck with what ever you decide.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:39 PM
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I did not know the engine had been run out of oil or had no oil pressure when I made my comments a couple of posts back. If so it would mean a lot more expense usually when you really get in there. I thought these engines would kill a bearing for no obvious apparent cause.
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2010, 09:54 PM
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I just assumed that spun bearing = out of oil pressure. Sorry if I was wrong.
Have you considered a sprinter motor?
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2010, 02:57 PM
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Never ran out of oil

For the record:

1. Car was full of oil.
2. Never lost any oil pressure on the gauge, nor did it even fluctuate.
3. Never overheated.

It is possible that it is not a bearing issue. I am pulling the oil pan to see what's going on. The engine will turn, but makes a loud scraping noise once per revolution . When it failed, it began making a loud clattering sound, 20 seconds later I pulled on to the shoulder and it died--and would not turn over. I thought it had seized. But the next day it did turn over. I drained the oil and found small flakes of what looks like bearing material--appears to be aluminum, but not certain. Doesn't look like steel. Will try a magnet. Did find some steel filings in the oil filter housing--but few and very small. Could have accumulated there for a while.
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2010, 04:14 PM
Ian White's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lvbizbroker View Post
For the record:

l--appears to be aluminum, but not certain.
It is most likely babbot, the coating that is used in bearings.
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