new brake pads... only?
 

i've done this on other cars but..
can i just replace the pads in front without removing the brake rotor?
i just wanted to get a quick job done before i take off for vegas and san diego...

No need to remove rotor to replace pads only.

Mercedes provides rotor replacement specifications that take into account whether the rotor will last the life of a new set of pads.

That is, there are two thickness numbers provided: minimun thickness and thickness at which rotor should be replaced anyway if replacing pads.

Yes you can just replace the pads, take less than 10min per side. It is recomended to replace the rotors if worn less than spec.

thanks, guys.
i haven't even jacked it up yet.. to see if i can get the caliper off easy.
i guess i'll measure the rotors next time i get under there.
kent, what part of abq you live in?

You don't need to remove the caliper, just knock out the 2 pins, remove clip, push the pistons back and pull out the pads.

As these guys said, brake pads are pretty easy, no need to replace or remove rotors. Of course, when I went to do the brake pads on my 123, I discovered that three out of four pistons on the front calipers were seized, so I ended up replacing them and the rotors, and hoses, and packing the wheel bearings. Hopefully your car has a better history than mine, in which case changing the brake pads is as complicated as taking the wheel off.:o

Too easy, eh?
 

Simply pull the retaining pins out and pry one brake pad away from the rotor with a big screwdriver until it is flush with the caliper and then drop the new pad in place. Then do the other side of the same caliper in the same manner.
DO NOT remove one side and then pry on the other side without having one pad in place or you can pop the piston out. Replace the pins and do the other front caliper.

DO NOT forget to pump your pedal several times after you have replaced your pads or your brakes won't work :eek:

It takes a half an hour to replace the front pads.

You may want to have a punch and hammer on hand to get the pins out ... mine were no way going to come out with a light push from my finger. Tap 'em out gently with a punch. If you can't push the pistons back, open the bleeder on the back of the caliper (with a hose attached to it going into a container, as not to make a mess).

Be sure to measure them before changing out the pads.
The minimum thickness on the rotors I have state 20mm.




.

1. Flush the brakes if you are doing pads. Chances are you need to do this away as brake fluid is the most neglected fluid next to coolant. DOT4

2. Inspect hoses, if cracked replace. They are very inexpensive and a breeze to install.

3. Front W126 rotors are a pain to R&R. Rear are a breeze, no excuse for having worn rotors out back.

Remember you may be dealing with asbestos powder...
so use a brake cleaner to wet and clean off the area before dealing with it...
and use a good mask in addition to that...
outside with a fan blowing downwind also a good idea....
years, decades before the particles are likely to cause cancer... so avoid at all costs..

A half hour? Either your getting old or charging too much. :D

If the fluid is black as tar use cheaper DOT3 this time, then in a couple weeks flush it again with DOT4. This will let the residual crap in the system absorb into the DOT3 and then get expelled.

-Jason

Very true. I certainly hope no one here has black brake fluid! :eek:

thanks for all the good advice guys...
i'd work on it tonight but "the boy" had to take it till he gets his turbo oil supply line fixed on his TDI.
hope he doesn't wreck the SD again.