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  #16  
Old 02-04-2010, 09:42 AM
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It is good practice to ream the holes if you remove or replace the plugs. The practice takes a bit of time and patience, but well worth the results. Carbon acts as an insulator in the chamber, which may minimize the effects of the glow system's ability to warm the chamber. I have new Bosch Glow plugs, new relay and all wiring is tip top. The car starts nearly instantly.

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  #17  
Old 02-04-2010, 09:51 AM
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I have used the reamer from KB, it's a Bosch unit. Only a bit came out. I'd suggest using it.
As mentioned BE CAREFUL.
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2010, 02:52 PM
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Does anyone have a reamer I could borrow?
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snookwhaler View Post
I have just used a drill bit and my two fingers. Not enough force to break a drill bit by hand (welll..I've been going to the gym a lot lately), but it did knock off quite a bit of carbon in the glow plug holes. Really I don't see how this would be a bad practice unless you shove it in way too far/hard.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2010, 06:45 PM
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I reamed out mine. my glow plugs didn't stick but I was surprised at how much carbon came out when i reamed the holes.
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  #21  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I have used the reamer from KB, it's a Bosch unit.
Most likely, it was a Bosch glow plug in a former life, before a reamer was pressed into the GP housing.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2010, 09:45 PM
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Some recommend putting some grease on the reamer or drill-bit flutes to catch the crumbs of carbon. Some NevrSeez or other anti-sieze compound on the threads is also a good idea. There are plenty of threads on the forum with other refinements of technique.... Steve
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  #23  
Old 02-05-2010, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Sbean View Post
Some recommend putting some grease on the reamer or drill-bit flutes to catch the crumbs of carbon.
x2 that -- it works like a charm.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:01 PM
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I got the reamer and used the grease method. The plugs weren't stuck, but it took a bit of wiggling to get the plugs out once they cleared the threads. Same thing goes for the reamer. Once I reached the threads, it slipped right in. I had to ream and clean several times before it could engage them.

I kept the hard lines on, but removed the idle adjust cable from the valve cover and removed the accelerator linkage to get to 3 and 4.
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:13 PM
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I don't know if I believe the premature GP failure claim due to carbon deposits. Sounds like a bit of a stretch.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
I don't know if I believe the premature GP failure claim due to carbon deposits. Sounds like a bit of a stretch.
That means you have not read the MB Factory Shop Manual.
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  #27  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:11 AM
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what about using a stiff-bristle brush in there? Something like a bottle brush. I use then in the lab all the time on glassware, it would get in easily through the hole, then expand to really scrape the surfaces. Perhaps a good thing to do after the reamer has gone through...
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  #28  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
I don't know if I believe the premature GP failure claim due to carbon deposits. Sounds like a bit of a stretch.
Could you imagine that glow plugs covered with carbon deposits don't work as well as clean ones? The longer it takes to start the engine, the longer the plugs are running.
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  #29  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
That means you have not read the MB Factory Shop Manual.
..not every page... Guilty.

I do, and we find, the FSM to be excessive in some areas, yet extremely helpful and undeniably valuable in others. It is a gospel for sure, but definitely the Old Testament in the religion of diesel. Amen.


There, a backhanded confession of my sins for a Sunday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Could you imagine that glow plugs covered with carbon deposits don't work as well as clean ones? The longer it takes to start the engine, the longer the plugs are running.
Yes, this makes sense if I have to adjust my glow cycle time before turning the key all the way. My car has no after-glow. Starter cuts off GPs. So premature failure in this case would be due to me using them more.

Is the reason for premature failure given in FSM, what page?
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  #30  
Old 02-28-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
what about using a stiff-bristle brush in there? Something like a bottle brush. I use then in the lab all the time on glassware, it would get in easily through the hole, then expand to really scrape the surfaces. Perhaps a good thing to do after the reamer has gone through...
Baked on Carbon can be pretty strong... I really have not seen anything to indicate that the heavy grease / reamer does not do a perfect job...
but normal machine practices do apply... like NOT FORCING the tool...and doing it in stages cleaning the carbon inbetween the stages.
I do not know what your brushes are made of... but in addition to the probability they are not strong enough bristles to affect the carbon is the possibility of one or more breaking off and being left there to mess with the fuel distribution... those famous tiny holes ...

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