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  #16  
Old 02-10-2010, 06:21 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
G,

There is no mention of removing any parts for installing a new chain. (maybe the tensioner spring)

It is, of course, unnecessary to remove any parts from the engine... however, in the OP's situation, without the recommended tools, and without having done the procedure before.... it is quite valid to facilitate the process by removing components that posit an obstacle to the smooth, consistent turning of the crank in unison with the camshaft.
What makes you think the vacuum constitutes an obstacle to the smooth , consistent turning of the crank ?
G

I suggest , after looking in my manual, that this is a big enough job if done correctly...and there is no advantage to taking apart the vacuum apart or off . and there is the possibility of something going wrong.. IE, not having the rod in the proper place when putting it back together ( do a search if you do not think this possible )....
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  #17  
Old 02-10-2010, 10:39 PM
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
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Most cars will not have had the stretch corrected. Yours of course may be the exception.

I was also thinking with the rockers pulled to change the chain instead of the valve train load you will be fighting the effect of all the valves being constantly closed. The trade off may be worse than the disease.

What I would do was measure the current stretch properly. If about two degrees pull the camshaft bolt and examine if there is an offsett key present. If not then there is no upside I can think of by changing the chain at this time.

Now the part of examining the chain slider. You should go by whatever the service manual states. Since I do not have one any major sign of wear would get me to change it. I would post on this site what I saw so others more experienced in what is allowable can quote. Unless you are fortunate that the chain is excellent and the last shop or person changed the slider at that time and it still looks as good as new.

It apears to me that once the slider is worn too thin it can have a piece break loose and if unfortunate travel into a sprocket. This apparently results in a broken chain sometimes if not in the majority of cases. It is of course cheap preventative maintenance to change the slider if there is good indication it is well worn.

The problem I experience with modern cars that have rubber timing belts. If I cannot establish it was done at the correct time. I have to change them just in case. There is no doubt some I change out have low milage. There is just no way to prove it. The chains on mercedes are provable good or bad fairly easily. You do not want to spend money where it is not required at all. There will be no shortage of places to put that money usually instead.
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2010, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Permian Basin, West Texas
Posts: 144
I don't have a dial indicator so I measured the chain stretch using the marker on the cam shaft. Because the mark on the cam shaft is actually kind of wide, I did it a couple different ways. One, the obvious way, I lined up the two marks in the middle as best I could and came up with 5 degrees on the crank. The other way is that I lined the cam tower mark up with both edges of the dimple on the cam shaft. One side lined up at zero degrees on the crank and the other side lined up at 8 degrees. So the average is 4 degrees. My guess is that I can go a little longer without replacing the chain. The chain is an Iwis and looks like its in great shape. What do y'all think?
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2010, 03:27 PM
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confirm that there is no offset key in the camshaft before assuming that is the final stretch measurement.

otherwise, those numbers are fine.
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