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  #16  
Old 12-02-2001, 11:02 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Citroen DS-21 for a very long time had the lowest -- RX-7 might be the same. Teardrop shape and all, probably considered the ugliest car ever made by most folks. Pretty slick, though! Out of production now for at least 20 years.

I usually keep some diesel additive on hand for winter use -- I get stuck with warm weather fuel in sudden cold snaps pretty often here. Balmy weather will turn to sub-zero in a flash, leaving me with a dead car from waxup.

I also just was informed that the odometer on my mother's 300TE died when my brother took it to Detroit for Thanksgiving, so I will be taking it out to repair it while she is in Florida for Xmas -- hopefully it will be a quick and easy fix. Details when I get it out.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #17  
Old 12-03-2001, 07:41 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Western Michigan
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Peter:

I will definitely be interested in the odometer piece.

Maybe write a how to article for the D.I.Y. section from how to take it out to fix?

Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 12-04-2001, 12:03 AM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
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Quote:
Originally posted by loubapache
Hey, Huys:

.....
BTW, my idle is rather low (to me). It is arounf 550 rpm. Can this be adjusted to a slightly higher idel?
.........
For the 87 300D, there is a black dial near the brake booster with numbers on it. If my memory is correct, it is for idle adjustment.

David
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  #19  
Old 12-04-2001, 09:35 AM
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David:

I think you are right. I found this on the other MB diesel list:

<<
I am now home and have access to the manual.

position Idle (603)
1 570
2 590
3 610
4 630
5 650
6 670
7 700
>>

It says "4" is the recommended setting. That means an idle of 630 is desired?
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2001, 10:58 AM
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Location: Plano, TX
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I know that 630RPM is what is quoted on the underhood emissions stickers on my car. I didn't realize the idle was adjustable. Now I'll have to go look for that dial...
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  #21  
Old 12-04-2001, 11:11 AM
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I will take a look at mine as well.

A related thought:

If it is on dial "4" (630 RPM), but the car idles at 550 RPM, what could be the causes to this?
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  #22  
Old 12-04-2001, 11:03 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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The "dial" is actually a plug -- won't turn! Pull out, rotate to new number, plug back in.

Took me a while to figure this out! I've learned not to bang on things, so I don't break the two little retaining arms off.

I suspect this is a resistor network, and changing the position changes the resistance the controller uses to set idle speed.

A tired resistor (it happens!) or dirty connection can change the idle speed. Injection timing, basic engine condition, etc shouldn't have much effect unless the operating range of the idle actuator is very small.

Stepping up to #5 cured the roar of my 300D at idle very nicely -- doesn't vibrate much at all now, and doesn't even knock as much. Very fine. Idle speed indicated on the tach appears to be correct -- not quite one needle width higher than it was.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #23  
Old 12-05-2001, 09:53 AM
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Location: Plano, TX
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I wouldn't put too much faith in the tach reading. They're not intended to be high precision devices.

I've run my car without the EDS computer hooked up and it makes a _very_ noticable difference. The engine will barely idle - shakes and knocks like crazy. I'm thinking the idle speed without electronics was in the 450RPM range. Unless your car is running like that I'd bet the idle speed control is just fine. That said, if the engine mounts are a bit tired you could still get some noise and vibration at 630RPM.

Me, I might turn mine up to 700RPM during the summer to get better a/c performance while stuck in traffic. These engines run so slow the compressor doesn't pull enough on the low side to provide sufficient cooling at idle. It can be kinda marginal down here in Texas.

- Jim
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  #24  
Old 12-05-2001, 11:01 AM
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Location: Western Michigan
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I changed mine from "4" to "5" this morning and I observed exactly as what Peter did. Smoother idle and less vibration.

Idle was the only "problem" on my wagon when I got it. After a bottle of Techron, some Power Service, and now this idle adjustment, it idles very well. Now we still need to find a way to get rid of that characteristic diesel noise at idle.

Seriously, the collective knowledge of this forum is great. However, it seems to me that none of us have a manual for the 603 engine. Does MB sell one?
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  #25  
Old 12-05-2001, 03:12 PM
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Location: Plano, TX
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Sure. It's part of the 124 CD package. You get the OM603, OM602, M103, M104, chassis manual, hvac manual, owners manual, service manual, and probably some other stuff I cannot remember. I know folks here like to bash it, but I still find it incredibly useful. Its organization isn't so bad compared to some of the technical documents I deal with at the office. Comes on two CDs; about a gig of information.
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  #26  
Old 12-05-2001, 03:26 PM
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Location: Western Michigan
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When I got my gas 300Es, I ordered a bunch of paper manuals from MB. Now I have

124 Chassis manusl (2 volumes)
M103 Engine manual.
Maintainance Manual (for all models up to a certain year).

I wish I have the OM603 manual.

jcyuhn: Which CD is the one that has the OM603 engine info?

Thanks.
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  #27  
Old 12-13-2001, 12:44 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 17
Hello there.

Being a proud owner of a 1987 300TDT, my 0-60 acceleration test is about 12-13 seconds.

There is mention above that I can speed it up a bit by plugging the turbo? Can you be more specific.

Thanks a lot.

If I adjust the aneroid anymore, I get too much Black smoke out the tailpipe.

It would be nice to "spool" the turbo quicker to get better acceleration for this heavy baby.
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1987 300TDT 165K MILES
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  #28  
Old 12-13-2001, 01:00 PM
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Location: Western Michigan
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Not the turbo but the vacuum line to the EGR valve. I did not notice any difference.
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  #29  
Old 12-13-2001, 01:48 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Los Angeles, Calif, USA
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pgasch

Pulling the EGR line makes no difference in performance. There is another vaccum line going to the turbo, near the lower radiator hose. It control the air recirculation within the turbo. Be sure you have the Trap replaced with a pipe (MBUSA final Trap recall)and the ALDA line is properly working.

David
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  #30  
Old 12-13-2001, 03:15 PM
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Oops, never replied to your question!

The 124 chassis manuals now come on two CDs. CD1 contains the engine manual(s), HVAC, electrical troubleshooting, owners manual, and miscellaneous maintenace documents. CD 2 contains the chassis manual.

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