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-   -   5 speed manual transmission rebuild (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/271403-5-speed-manual-transmission-rebuild.html)

Merkey 02-12-2010 05:31 PM

5 speed manual transmission rebuild
 
Just snapped up a 5 speed from the junkyard...
About 200k on the car.
What should I do to it before I consider the conversion....

d.delano 02-12-2010 05:36 PM

if it came out of a 2.5T go back and get the engine, flywheel, pedals lol

Merkey 02-12-2010 05:39 PM

Actually there was/is a 300TD there... with 280k on it...

No, it was from a 190 2.3... got nearly everything I needed.

Looking for some insight into what I should do to this transmission before I throw it in my 190D...

t walgamuth 02-12-2010 06:45 PM

Take it to someone who knows trannies and ask them to open the side or top and look at the gears and synchros, etc.

Or if it feels good in all the gears probably not much danger in simply putting it to work.

dadette123 02-12-2010 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merkey (Post 2404358)
it was from a 190 2.3... got nearly everything I needed.

Looking for some insight into what I should do to this transmission before I throw it in my 190D...

Seem to recall a recent post. Do a forum search. Did you get the driveshaft as well? Are you wanting to know about R&Ring the tranny before it goes in your car? Is that your question?

JB3 02-12-2010 11:29 PM

Whats the casting number?
If I were to do anything, id replace the input shaft seal, easy to get to with the tranny out.
Probably, you should just fire it in, change the fluid, drive it a few days with a lot of shift changes, and see how bad its leaking from everywhere, and how it works overall.

thats when you spend your time listening for bearing noise at certain times. Should be two countershaft bearings, one input shaft bearing, two output shaft bearings, (one small one seats inside the input shaft, so its kind of shared between them). A total of 5 main tapered bearings to listen for. After that, I think there are an additional 2 or 3 supplementary needle bearings also.

lets see- If you have noise with the clutch engaged and the transmission in neutral, it could be input bearing, input/output bearing, or countershaft bearings.

If you have noise only when moving, but not with the clutch engaged and transmission in neutral, it can only be the input/output bearing, or the output bearing.
I think thats about as specific as you can get listening on that tranny, then you would have to dive in and look them over.

All this is only after you've eliminated any possible external source of noise, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, carrier bearing, ect

Powerflow goes through the input shaft, then down to the countershaft. In neutral with the clutch engaged, these shafts are both still turning, but the output shaft is idle.

If it works fine and doesn't leak, its gravy time.

The side shift lever seals, pivot point O rings, and output shaft seal can all be done with the transmission installed in the car, but the input shaft seal would cause you to pull the tranny down again.

barry123400 02-13-2010 07:53 PM

Go back to the wrecker to see if you can contact the last owner. Sometimes there are old papers in the glove compartment or trunk that identify them.

Usually the past owner will be honest in his opinion as he has no longer any vested interest. If he states the transmission was fault free take him at his word. Same if he tells you it had a grind or other noise.

If you decide to shotgun the bearings in the transmission regardless see if the price puts you off first. Changing all the seals might be wise as if the transmission lost enugh oil it might be damaged before you noticed it sometime in the future. Seals are usually cheap in comparison with the other parts.

ah-kay 02-14-2010 03:20 AM

Help
 
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/271423-84-190d-manual-transmission-stick-hard-move-left.html

I posted this in 'Tech Help' and don't get any feedback. Anyone here can offer any idea on why? Shift linkage?

Thanks.

Merkey 02-14-2010 12:42 PM

My question is totally based on making sure when I put it in my 190D I dont have to drag it back out again soon after!

I will post the casting # and some photos later...

I gotta go back to the Junkyard and pull the Clutch reservior... an allen bolt head was stripped and I couldnt shift it.
I will look for previous owner info then too.

johnjzjz 02-14-2010 03:57 PM

as said above the small bearings are at risk of wear , as well as the lower counter shaft rollers , nothing lasts forever and high use spinning parts need to be looked at as well as the shift engaguement stuff , and thrust washers really anything that moves

You need to really know what your looking at to see damage or wear -

if you cant locate the last owner to speak to than put it in with new oil ,and hope for the best if its ok save up for a problem they are pricy to re do -- jz

Merkey 02-14-2010 08:05 PM

Heres what I got...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05600.jpg

Here is the part/casting number...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05598.jpg

Closeup of bell housing....

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05602.jpg

Clutch and flywheel pics...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05603.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05604.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05605.jpg

johnjzjz 02-14-2010 08:35 PM

looks like a nice unit good luck

JB3 02-14-2010 08:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
that stuff looks great! the fingers on the flex disc look a little worn from the larger picture, but unless there was something major missing from the clutch, id probably just install all that stuff. How are the pilot and release bearings?

Looks like some minor wetness inside the bell, can you trace it to the seal? If so, pull the 6 bolt cover, DO NOT lose the shims behind it, and fire another seal in there.

front seal part number is- A 014 997 63 47
Not sure what the plate gasket part number is, but you could use silicone for that if need be.

Where in the hell are you located, if thats what yard parts look like where you are, I want to move there!

for comparison, heres a pic of a sister tranny 717.412 where I live-

Merkey 02-15-2010 03:07 PM

Thanks guys.
Yes, there is some wear marks on the pressure plate fingers. Looking at the clutch assembly, it has a 1998 date stamp, and its a Sach unit, so good quality. The flywheel shows no evidence of scoring no does the pressure plate and there is plenty of life in the friction plate...
Located in SoCal, so no salt on the roads = no crusty parts!
I did snag the insurace card from the glovebox, so I know the PO's name and address... A lady!

I went back to the junkyard looking for the part I missed...somehow I thought there was a "clutch fluid reservior"... Came back confused. I was looking at the Oil filter housing on the engine.
The Brake fluid Reservior was gone, and no sign of a pipe going off of it.
Today, looking at the clutch pedal, with the fluid cylinder attached, I see no fluid intake... I only see a outlet, that went to the slave cylinder on the transmission...
Here is a pic...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...c/DSC05607.jpg

The boss halfway up the body has a black plug, but its a blind plug.
How do you bleed the clutch fluid/fill the system???
Confused!:confused:

JB3 02-15-2010 04:22 PM

2 Attachment(s)
thats odd. That black rubber bushing is the port for the hose coming down from the brake reservoir.

They are only blocked off to ship, in use there should be a white plastic nipple that fits into that black seal, then goes to a hose barb, and a hose to go out to the engine compartment.

Its a hand press in tolerance, are you sure that its blocked off? From the pic, it looks normal except for the white plastic nipple and hose is missing.

Here are a few pics-

Check your own car to see if you have the clutch nipple on the brake fluid reservoir, no need to go back if you can just cut it off. Pretty sure the nipples are on all models, regardless of tranny option.


Bleeding is pretty easy since the clutch and brake fluid reservoirs are linked. when its all together, open the passenger front caliper bleeder, and the clutch slave cylinder bleeder, and connect them with a hose. (I usually use a couple hose clamps in case it slips off).

Then slowly pump the brakes 15-20 times, and it will force hydraulic fluid from the caliper, through the slave, up the clutch line, through the master, and back into the brake reservoir.

Once you have no air bubbles coming up out of the clutch line connection, tighten everything up, and pump the clutch up a bunch of times. I had one where it pumped up in like 10 pumps, and another where it took 5 minutes to pump up. Don't know why, new parts, no leaks, and they both worked great in service, but one took longer.


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