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  #61  
Old 12-08-2012, 12:02 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,291
OK, we got the system to level the car but the ride is very bouncy and feels totally undamped.

Am I correct in thinking this is spheres?

Also is there any way to verify before installing them that used ones are good?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #62  
Old 12-08-2012, 01:26 PM
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|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
OK, we got the system to level the car but the ride is very bouncy and feels totally undamped.

Am I correct in thinking this is spheres?

Also is there any way to verify before installing them that used ones are good?
Sounds like the spheres (accumulators) to me. The only test I know if is to poke around with the eraser end of a pencil into it and see if you can find a tear.
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'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #63  
Old 12-08-2012, 01:38 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slfan1 View Post
BioDiesel300TD,

Thank you for your answer. I had the car raised on a lift with the engine running and can confirm that the thumping noise is coming from the SLS valve. Any advise where I should procure this valve?

Thank you,
Slfan1
In Brazil, do you have junkyards with Mercedes from the late 80's through the 90's? SLS came on a lot of models through that time era and they all used the same valve. All of the wagons through that time, and a lot of the higher end sedans had SLS. That would be the cheapest way to find one. I have an extra, but shipping might make it pretty expensive. You can buy a new one from Pelican Parts for $458. Otherwise you might be able to find one close to you on ebay. You can always get one through the dealership, but get out your wallet, and prepare to leave your arm and leg as well. You might also be able to find a shop that works on Mercedes, and they might have a way to get one for you a little cheaper than shipping if from the US.
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'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #64  
Old 12-08-2012, 06:40 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD View Post
Sounds like the spheres (accumulators) to me. The only test I know if is to poke around with the eraser end of a pencil into it and see if you can find a tear.
Thanks Andrew!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #65  
Old 11-02-2013, 01:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 36
The best explanation of knocking noises from the rear comes from the manual. Scroll down to page 5 of PDF attachment.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 40-310.pdf (524.2 KB, 365 views)
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  #66  
Old 11-16-2013, 12:17 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: North central Texas
Posts: 2,594
I have a good flow of fluid from the return yet, the rear will not raise when moving the lever on the valve. No external leaks but the tank was empty. I fear the pump is shot.

Is it possible to have a good return flow with a bad pump?
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  #67  
Old 04-11-2014, 11:03 PM
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Location: Eastport, Maine
Posts: 126
Flow with bad pump

Possible, but not probable.
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  #68  
Old 04-20-2014, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
R320

Hi, I'm new here and so far the amount of information I can see is amazing. Over the last week my 2006 R320 has started being lower in the rear in the morning. The ride is perfect and it raises when started. I'm assuming it's just the levelling valve? Is it repairable on the R Class? I don't have full airmatic suspension. If it is repairable what part numbers do I need?
John
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  #69  
Old 12-07-2014, 06:55 PM
SkyVegToph's Avatar
W123 Gripped
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Wooster Ma, Nola La
Posts: 20
Afew years late!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar65pa View Post
Ok so I have an 82 300TD with the SLS and a bad diesel engine.

I bought a sedan engine. I was told that the "power" for the SLS pump comes from the head of the engine.

So how do I fix this problem so I can put the sedan motor in my wagon and still have a working SLS?
Ya I had to do this once... My girlfriend at the time had bad compression so she ordered a used engine... I specifically asked for a wagon engine and they assured me it was one.. got it and it had the wrong head!

If both engines are out of the car and on a stand its not so bad.. the hardest part of the job it timing the injection pump! If you do swap the heads at least you will have a new timing chain and head gasket.. but those parts are not common to replace...

Kinda fun...

Ya I am rebuilding my SLS right now... The previous owner put gas shocks in I am about to diagnose the SLS once all the body welding is finished,,, we are almost done cutting out all the rust and hand forging new metal pieces and welding them in ! It pays to have a blacksmith for a best friend!

I will try to post some pics...

I put new SLS Shocks in and new lines to the accumulators.. the system has been dry for 4 years! I will most likely need accumulators and a pump rebuild... I haven;t seen a listing for a supplier who sells the pump rebuild kits in this thread... Anyone know?

Thanks. wish me luck who knows maybe it will magically work!
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  #70  
Old 12-08-2014, 04:07 PM
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Uh, post 4?
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  #71  
Old 12-08-2014, 05:49 PM
SkyVegToph's Avatar
W123 Gripped
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Wooster Ma, Nola La
Posts: 20
size of the pressure hose under the body?

Hey all,

So I took the wagon off the stilts today and set her on the ground with the new SLS components... New SLS shocks (were missing when I bought it) new lines from shocks to accumulators.

The pressure line under the car body, the metal line that is about 5/16 in diameter, busted a leak and squirted all the hydro fluid out

Anyone know what size hose that is? The metal line that is about the size of a break line???

At least the pump seems to be working.. it built pressure!
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  #72  
Old 12-17-2014, 07:15 PM
SkyVegToph's Avatar
W123 Gripped
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Wooster Ma, Nola La
Posts: 20
valve configuration supply and return lines

Hey there,

So i am in the middle of replacing the metal lines under the car... the supply and return lines.. i found them to be six mm or quarter inch with the fittings slightly drilled out...

On the valve itself... is the supply from the pump the lowest fitting or the bottom fitting and the one just above it the return?

That is how they are set up on my car.. just making sure that it is right.. Searched for a while and cant find it on the forums... which one is which...

Thakns!
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  #73  
Old 12-23-2014, 03:33 PM
wrench dropper
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: very very very Nor-Cal
Posts: 203
FSM 32-501 Level control system and inspections

FSM 32-5xx covers "Level control system and inspections"
FSM 32-501 is the "Functional Description" (Parts A-D; 16 pages)
FSM 32-501D covers the "Control Equipment" (3 pages)

I have attached FSM 32-501D for you. Hope it helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyVegToph View Post
Hey there,

So i am in the middle of replacing the metal lines under the car... the supply and return lines.. i found them to be six mm or quarter inch with the fittings slightly drilled out...

On the valve itself... is the supply from the pump the lowest fitting or the bottom fitting and the one just above it the return?

That is how they are set up on my car.. just making sure that it is right.. Searched for a while and cant find it on the forums... which one is which...

Thakns!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 32-501-p14-p16.pdf (426.6 KB, 231 views)
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  #74  
Old 01-31-2015, 08:06 PM
sd300td's Avatar
huh?
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,116
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd300td View Post
Good timing as my wagon began sagging a little over night recently. The PO had extensive SLS work done years ago, so the only SLS repair I've had to do is replace the resevoir itself. Darn thing developed tiny holes all over and began leaking. The resevoirs are dealer only and cost more than $400, so if you see a good used one at a yard or elsewhere, might want to pick up a spare...
Better late than never. I looked this thread up this morning before changing both accumulators. Ride got so bouncy that it just had to be done. Was a little embarrassed to see one of my posts from 2010 regarding the sagging rear. Still sags a little overnight. ... will address soon enough but for now I'm happy to have my smooth ride back.

Those 11mm bolts on the hard lines were a bit of a problem. They looked like the threads were stripped. Must have been from a previous repair. I managed to get them to hold but not without a few walk away moments. Next time those lines are getting replaced i think. ..
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
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  #75  
Old 02-02-2015, 01:38 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,778
I'd like to know if anyone has thought of a clever way to properly adjust the length of the control rod (between SLS control valve lever and the rear sway bar). The FSM calls for some special tools I'm not particularly inclined to purchase.

I've got an '87 wagon and the original rod ends rotted out. Purchasing just the new ends was far cheaper than getting an entire new rod.

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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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