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  #16  
Old 02-17-2010, 01:07 PM
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The black stuff is incompletely burned fuel.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #17  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:19 PM
helpplease
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Really unburnt fuel? And how do I stop that? Glow plugs are working, I have ohmed them several times now. What would the compression test tell me? And where do I find the tool?
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  #18  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helpplease View Post
Found a how to on the valve stem seals....now do I want to put more work into this car that I am trying to sell? If I do anymore I might as well keep it....
LOL, I know exactly how you feel.
However, if you keep it OR if you want to sell it at a much better price you need to fix those valve stem seals...
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  #19  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:24 PM
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Compression tester:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93644
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helpplease View Post
Sorry no video and I can't really take one, cats knocked the camera off of the bookshelf and it broke.
Sorry for your loss, but I LOL'd at that.

Quote:
What does your smoke smell like? Mine smells terrible and there was all of that thick black stuff that came out of the tailpipe. Does yours do the thick black "stuff"?
Terrible how? Like fuel, or like burned engine oil?
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Anyone who thinks a 300D is fast drives too slow.

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  #21  
Old 02-17-2010, 02:44 PM
helpplease
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Its okay to LOL at the camera

And it smells a little like burned oil but I wouldn't call it overpowering or anything...It used to smell like fuel hence the valves, purge and injectors...


Again thanks for the help guys
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  #22  
Old 02-17-2010, 03:43 PM
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What Colour is the smoke...?

Black, White, Grey or Blue...?

Does this happen particularly when Cold, Hot or all the time?
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W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #23  
Old 02-17-2010, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
I am not sure what a ' valve guide seal' is if it is not a valve stem seal...which Skippy mentioned.... smoke upon startup which clears up after a few minutes is classic worn valve stem seal symptom. They are not expensive and with care can be done by a DIY 'er.
Since you will have the valve train opened up I always suggest putting new springs since they are cheap and new valve caps and locking nuts since they affect the ability of the valves to hold valve clearance specs well ... as per the FSM suggestions....
I also suggest putting new rotators on all valves at that time if you can find them. This is also per the FSM suggestions....
Ok, valve stem seal. Hehe proper terminology. Looks like I've got some things to add to my list now too.
Springs, valve caps, locking nuts, rotators.
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  #24  
Old 02-17-2010, 08:09 PM
helpplease
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Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
What Colour is the smoke...?

Black, White, Grey or Blue...?

Does this happen particularly when Cold, Hot or all the time?
Only when cold, when it warms up its fine and blows the normal light black cloud. Whiteish I think, it smells bad as well.
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  #25  
Old 02-17-2010, 08:42 PM
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What kind of smell? Diesel? Antifreeze? I don't normally see a light black cloud when mine are running. The exhaust is really only visible at night in headlights.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #26  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:20 AM
helpplease
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I think the ALDA has been turned up on this car, so I just figured that is why is has the light black smoke. When it is warmed up it just smells like normal diesel exhaust. The whiteish smoke on start up smells like oil to me at least. My wife just says it smells bad.
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:34 AM
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Worth Confirming the Glow-plugs are actually ALL working, not unusual for one to read right with meter, but still not work well enough. (Best way, is drop out Injectors and actually look at 'em with Ign on. Should be a nice bright orange)

IP Timing will have a big affect on the starting and stone-cold smoke levels, so worth confirming its correct--Bit of a fiddle, but costs little to do...

You have new injectors so we should be able to rule those out.

Starting when hot, after say 10 mins standing, How's the smoke then? Any blue/whitish puffs?
--If left to idle for a few mins, then revved, Any smoke?-Colour? If so, Tends to indicate valve-guides and seals....
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2010, 07:46 AM
helpplease
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post
Worth Confirming the Glow-plugs are actually ALL working, not unusual for one to read right with meter, but still not work well enough. (Best way, is drop out Injectors and actually look at 'em with Ign on. Should be a nice bright orange)

IP Timing will have a big affect on the starting and stone-cold smoke levels, so worth confirming its correct--Bit of a fiddle, but costs little to do...

You have new injectors so we should be able to rule those out.

Starting when hot, after say 10 mins standing, How's the smoke then? Any blue/whitish puffs?
--If left to idle for a few mins, then revved, Any smoke?-Colour? If so, Tends to indicate valve-guides and seals....
At idle on start up when cold the car doesn't smoke much, but give it some gas and it smokes really really bad, the smoke is whiteish and will do so until the engine is warm. When the engine is hot there is hardly any smoke and its black.
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2010, 08:52 AM
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Personally, I would start with Injection Timing, and then check Compressions...

If the Timing is Retarded, this can give the symptoms you describe, and as the engine wears/chain stretches, the IP timing goes retarded....

--Its the cheapest first job if you havent got compression-tester...

For 0M.617.952 (and most 912) Point of injection is 24 degrees. A lot of guys here actually set to between 26 and 28 degrees, they reckon gives more torque and easier starting...
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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