chassis lubrication?

[elchivito]

Changed the oil in the 240D the other day and was gabbing with my next door neighbor. He knows nothing about Mercedes cars, which is just a tad less than I know. He has several gorgeous restored late 50's Chevys that he did himself. He says, "so did you lube the chassis and suspension too?". I say...uhhhhh, I didn't notice any zerks anywhere".

The manual doesn't say anything about chassis lube, and I haven't seen it discussed here, can someone enlighten me?

[79Mercy]

Nope, there aren't any lube points on your suspension.

[snookwhaler]

I have to tell you.... I look forward to NOT doing a chassis lube on the MB. However I DO NOT look forward to a service on my 96 K1500 Z71 Chevy. 16 zerks to hit on that beast. You wind up covered in grease by the time you are done. There is usually some foul language involved before your done because there is always one that won't take the grease... So, I have to remove the zerk, clean it, check it and put it back in.

Even my 2001.5 Dodge 3500 Quad cab/Cummins has only got a couple (compared to the Chevy).... I don't know... The least amount of work... The better IMO. BUT, the BJ's on the Chevy are original @ 178,000 miles and are tight as new...

I think I am confusing myself!

[sd300td]

You can lube the door hinges.

[whunter]

Originally Posted by elchivito

Changed the oil in the 240D the other day and was gabbing with my next door neighbor. He knows nothing about Mercedes cars, which is just a tad less than I know. He has several gorgeous restored late 50's Chevys that he did himself. He says, "so did you lube the chassis and suspension too?". I say...uhhhhh, I didn't notice any zerks anywhere".

The manual doesn't say anything about chassis lube, and I haven't seen it discussed here, can someone enlighten me?

Every two years you should lube:
* Door hinges.
* Hood hinges.
* Hood latch.
* Door latches.
* Trunk latch.

[snookwhaler]

Well yea..... The "body" is a different story.

Those high pressure nozzles will come in handy.

Thanks for reminding me.... Something else to look forward too.

[jkubica]

Originally Posted by elchivito

Changed the oil in the 240D the other day and was gabbing with my next door neighbor. He knows nothing about Mercedes cars, which is just a tad less than I know. He has several gorgeous restored late 50's Chevys that he did himself. He says, "so did you lube the chassis and suspension too?". I say...uhhhhh, I didn't notice any zerks anywhere".

The manual doesn't say anything about chassis lube, and I haven't seen it discussed here, can someone enlighten me?

Hi
I do surely wish my 1985 300td had zerks on the ball joints and tie rod ends - and elsewhere.

As it is when a boot gets torn the game is over. Nothing to do but replace.
Joseph

[strelnik]

Originally Posted by elchivito

Changed the oil in the 240D the other day and was gabbing with my next door neighbor. He knows nothing about Mercedes cars, which is just a tad less than I know. He has several gorgeous restored late 50's Chevys that he did himself. He says, "so did you lube the chassis and suspension too?". I say...uhhhhh, I didn't notice any zerks anywhere".

The manual doesn't say anything about chassis lube, and I haven't seen it discussed here, can someone enlighten me?

Ceratin types of monocoque cars, especially, Citroens, Peugeots, MBs from the late 50s-late 70s benefit from having oil sprayed into the actual tubular structures of the chassis.

Citroenistes do this for the 1930-50s cars especially, but they can be done on the DS cars as well.

A substance called Waxoyl is used alonmg with a high-pressure sprayer. This fills the inside non-galvanized areas with a coat of oil to prevent rust from moistuure or possible intrusions by water.

Your car drips oil from all over but it makes the chassis last a lot longer

[jbach36]

There are definite times to use WD-40, or lithium, or silicone spray.

WD-40, I think collects dirt, so you have to be careful where you use it.

Lithium is great, but does not run into areas where you need it. It only stays where it was spraayed.

Silicone, I think it does not corrode rubber, not sure, but you can spray it, and it drips into cracks and crevices. I recently changed my struts, and now I get a creaking sound when I go over humps. Bilstein said it's possible when I changed them, the control arms got stretched beyond where they normally got stretched, so he recommended I spray silicone on them, but warned me against using WD-40.

What lube should we use on the latches, etc.?

[leathermang]

For rubber suspension parts diluted muratic acid can be used...and has been being used for a long time... this can be bought in a one gallon container which only has a little in the bottom... and you add the water to it ... it has a sprayer with a tube several feet long so you can reach up under the car to spray the place .. typically those which are squeaking... but I think it is the proper lube for rubber...
Commercially I think the product I used was called " RuGlide"....