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#1
02-16-2010, 12:57 PM
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What size tool for torque converter? W123
Hi all,
I am new to this forum and have a new to me 85 300D turbo. w123 617.952 722.315 trans Working on changing fluids since I don't know when they were changed last and I think the car sat for a while, so my question is.... I am changing the transmission fluid and would like to know what tool and size I need for the torque converter drain plug.... thanks all for the great advise without this forum I would be in the dark! Have already learned alot just reading previous posts, but can't seem to find the article again w/ my answer... thanks for any help in adance 
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#2
02-16-2010, 09:56 PM
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I believe the pan drain and the torque convertor is a 6mm hex bit. I use one that fits on my socket wrench. Craftsman has them. been a while since I drained one, so one of the big guys will straighten me out if Iam wrong on the size
 .Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#3
02-16-2010, 10:00 PM
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6 sounds right... but they are the same size, so if you do the pan first, you'll know.
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#4
02-16-2010, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System 
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#5
02-16-2010, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon  '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#6
02-16-2010, 10:56 PM
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Ok, I was close.
I threw a dart at the wall, and it landed on the 6  .Iam changing everything to manual, so from now on it`s a 14mm  .Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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#7
02-17-2010, 06:18 PM
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Thanks all, attempted it but did not have the right tool, so I moved on to the brakes and twisted off the bleeder thingy!!! UUUUUGGGGGHHHH now to figure out how to fix that??? Not so good at this mechanic stuff still learning!
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#8
02-17-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
That is going to be a PITA if not impossible. Tiny bolt, tiny hole, tapered threads, etc... Is there anything left sticking out? I would probably take the caliper off the car and get it in a vice and go from there.... Very careful drilling can get it out of there. But, try extracting it first.
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) 
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#9
02-17-2010, 08:19 PM
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Small vise grips can often get enough hold to back out what is left of the bleeder after a good soaking with PB.
Barring that even a sharp pair of side cutters or even wire cutters will grab enough to remove the left over piece. As was said... if those dont work, its time for a screw extractor.
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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#10
02-17-2010, 09:55 PM
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I am in florida and new to the mechanic stuff. The car sat for a while, not sure how long, the rotors and calipers have rust on them but the rotor surface looks good, has a little bit of grooves, when u run your finger over the rotors you can feel a small wave/groove in the rotor, not sure how bad that is??the car was driven to my location.
I have read lots of posts and did try the PB stuff, guess I was just too hard on the bleeder, gonna try again tomorrow, looks like some creatures have crawled up in there and made themselves right at home, all kinds of webs and cocoons! Was hoping I could just bleed the brakes and be done w/ it. The brake pedal is real hard and from what I have read it looks like it could have crud or rust in the lines so was hoping....even went and got the vacuum pump thing so I would not have to have help bleeding I wanted to change the fluid out and put in synthetic, not sure what is in there, is there any special thing that I need to do to flush between the 2 types of fluids? I really dont know what is in there. But the reservoir looks crusty, should I try to replace w/ the same stuff that is already in there? Or is it a good idea to use the synthetic? thanks for the help!! 
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#11
02-17-2010, 09:59 PM
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A hard brake pedal is either a large vacuum leak, or a bad brake booster.
Your rotors sound like they have normal wear on them. I would use non-synthetic brake fluid, O-Reilly's still sells non-synthetic brake fluid. I have heard of synthetic BF causing old seals to leak.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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#12
02-17-2010, 10:08 PM
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Is the booster rebuildable? Guess I will be back at the tool store to get an extracter!
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#13
02-17-2010, 10:10 PM
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I don't believe the booster is, check for large vacuum leaks first.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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#14
02-17-2010, 10:12 PM
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Will do thanks for the help!
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