timing chain replacement-jammed?! - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

laidbback · #46 03-02-2010, 05:31 PM

im back after a few days off.

Ok so I just spent about an hour removing the rear bolt on the IP without removing the oil filter housing. Now with the rear bolt off I still don't think I have enough clearance to remove the pump.

Has anyone removed their pump without removing the oil filter housing.

IF the oil filter housing must come out, it looks like its going to take at least an hour to get those nuts off on the oil cooler lines, I remember when I replaced those lines and I had to turn a 1/4 turn at a time and flip the wrench and it sucked! Also there is barely any clearance for a allen wrench on the bolts between the steering box.

laidbback · #47 03-02-2010, 10:26 PM

well the IP was able to slide out with out removing the oil filter housing, I lined up the missing tooth with the mark and reinstalled the pump, Now the tough part, getting that last bolt in

I searched the forums and found that another member did this with a gearwrench and a magnet. I have the cheaper craftsman racheting wrenches but they have a huge footprint and I wasn't successful with getting the bolt in.

I spent about 4 hours attacking it from every possible way. I tried supergluing it to the racheting wrench as well as making a wrench with a piece of scrap steel. I could not get it to line up and get one turn, that's all I need is one turn then i can get it the rest of the way with a normal 13mm wrench. Wow PIA but I didn't have a gasket for the oil filter housing so I tried to go around removing it.

So tomorrow it's off to sears to grab a 13 mm gearwrench I hope that works!

Thanks for all the help so far, I almost gave up 3 weeks ago.

leathermang · #48 03-02-2010, 11:18 PM

Ok.. I love this type of problem...

If you put a couple of castellated nuts on that bolt with the open slots towards the end...
and then carefully grind... or better yet cut with a lathe... the threads off a small length of the end of the bolt... just enough so the end of the bolt now acts like a pilot shaft... perhaps that would give you an edge with getting the bolt started with your fingers...
Castellated nuts are made for this purpose ( thread cleaning)... and also for allowing a cotter pin to be installed so it will not back off at the wrong time... like on the tie rod ends... seldom a good time to lose a tie rod end.....
Messing with the starter threads is not the easiest thing to get correct.. suggest having spares to play with if you try this..
Ok.. to be more clear... you put the nuts on , grind, use the nuts when they are taken off the shaft to clean up any mess you have left of the threads you ground.. then you try using the bolt..

laidbback · #49 03-03-2010, 03:01 AM

ok nice I actually tried this with normal nuts and got about 2 threads back ground off, only reason is my 68 bronco has bolts that all look that way from factory, I still cant get it lined up with enough pressure to get it in there so I am going to try the pivoting gearwrench. I tried taping a little wooden splint on the back of a wrench as well, worked, but I need the ratchet action because it's so tight

Alastair · #50 03-03-2010, 04:35 AM

Which bolt is the problem one...?

--I'm assuming is one of the rear mount, as the others are nuts...

laidbback · #51 03-03-2010, 03:59 PM

yea it's the rear bolt. I got it in thanks to a gearwrench with the lip on one side so the wrench doesn't slide over the bolt. All of 15 minutes after doing aerobics in side the engine compartment yesterday.

I thought I was in the clear, nope.

I have the 3 nuts snugged up on the IP and the bolt on the back in(not tight) and I have it lined up at the same angle I removed it at, I made a few reference lines, and I attempted the drip test at 24 degrees btdc and I am not getting any fuel at all coming out of the drip tool.
I removed the spring and little valve thing from no 1 and I bled the air out using the junction bolt on the top of the fuel filter and have bubble free fuel but nothing is coming out the drip tool.

I don't know whats going on, the lobes are facing up on cyl 1 24 BTDC Throttle is wired fully open, vacuum lines are disconnected.

What am I missing? I really don't want to remove the IP, and I know it was lined up before I installed it.

jt20 · #52 03-03-2010, 04:08 PM

that could be a very good sign. If no fuel is coming out when you press the primer, you may have the crank slightly too far advanced.

turn the crank over again and begin drip testing at an earlier angle on the crank damper.

you should FIND your current timing before you set the timing

laidbback · #53 03-03-2010, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

a more effective means of using this approach would be:

placing the crank @ 33* before TDC and pump the primer and continue to check the drip while pumping the primer.

advance the crank a little, pump the primer, check the drip rate.

advance the crank a little more, pump the primer, check the drip rate... continue until you find the spot where the drip just about stops completely when you pump the primer.

check the balancer marks, and thats your IP timing.

should I follow these steps and once the it barely drips thats when I fine tune and adjust the angle of the IP??

jt20 · #54 03-03-2010, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laidbback

should I follow these steps and once the it barely drips thats when I fine tune and adjust the angle of the IP??

following those steps will bring the crank to the position of your current timing.

you should not adjust the pump at this time. Just take note of your timing so that you know your current arrangement is adjustable.

As I recall, we are in this position b/c something screwy happened and we are uncertain about the relationship b/w crank / cam / IP.

after you find your current setting, and it is within reason, then set the crank to where you want it... then proceed with the drip timing instructions.

there is no need to remove the pump at this time.

laidbback · #55 03-03-2010, 05:01 PM

cool looks like my ip timing is about 30deg btdc got it to drip about one drip per second i managed to break a vac hose that goes into the big brake booster vac line so thats a bummer but time to start putting things back together. thankx again for all the help!

laidbback · #56 03-03-2010, 07:57 PM

SHE STARTED!

lil cranking and some smoke and she is running great. I still need to get that vacuum junction that is on the booster vac line because she won't shut down without the stop button.

Thank you all for your help, I couldn't have done it with out you all!

Alastair · #57 03-04-2010, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by laidbback

cool looks like my ip timing is about 30deg btdc got it to drip about one drip per second i managed to break a vac hose that goes into the big brake booster vac line so thats a bummer but time to start putting things back together. thankx again for all the help!

Well, Thats good news that it now runs...

30 deg, for Standard Diesel is a little advanced...|(Seems good for BioDiesel though....)

Many run 27-28 degrees here...

To Retard Timing, you'll need to move the pump top--just a millimeter or so, towards the engine block, after slackening its mounting nuts....

John1 · #58 03-29-2010, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

LOL, since it was a defense of not reading instruction manuals I did not look at the name closely enough..
but the answer applies to YOU.
You have created such a mess by 1. not keeping tension on the chain 2. using the power steering nut to rotate the engine instead of the crank bolt that I think you are going to need to take the front of the engine down a long ways and work back up to get things back into proper position....and extricate the chain.
The good thing is that if you do that you will be able to use a non link chain...just like when they put the engine together originally .... but you know that since you have a Factory Shop Manual....
The FSM has pictures of how to keep the cam sprocket braced in position.

Why don't you try to help the guy out instead of being a jerk and wasting forum space?

Alastair · #59 03-29-2010, 07:40 AM

Dont worry John1, Looks like its all sorted....