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  #1  
Old 02-25-2010, 03:49 PM
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coolant in trannsmission fluid, yikes!!

just when I was ready to get the car back on the road, BAM along comes
another gotchya. this is on the 1984 300DT. antifreeze hadn't been changed in five years (I know not good). drained the coolant, installed a 50/50 mix of white vinegar/distilled water with the intent of running the car for a few days to flush the cooling system.

then BAM out of nowhere, a leak that appears to be water and red fluid coming from the transmission area. I quickly check the dip stick and YIKES, we are two quarts over capacity. plus the transmission fluid now
has a clear slightly brown tinge to it. pulled the dip stick on the other car (560SEL) to compare the color. took both transmissions dip sticks and placed them on a paper towel. the 560's was still red, while the 300D's was a very light rust color (probably from scale and rust the white vinegar/distilled water mixture was flushing out).

fast forward, drained all of the distilled water/white vinegar from the cooling system, I'm going to drain the transmission fluid next (along with the torque converter) and remove the filter.

question: it may be a few days until I get the car to the transmission shop for a complete flush. should I fill the transmission with transmission fluid to keep the seals moist, etc or is it safe to wait until the car gets into a shop? don't want the seals to dry out, plus with the mixture of white vinegar/distilled water that appears to be in there, I don't want to risk any damage if possible.....

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  #2  
Old 02-25-2010, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
just when I was ready to get the car back on the road, BAM along comes
another gotchya. this is on the 1984 300DT. antifreeze hadn't been changed in five years (I know not good). drained the coolant, installed a 50/50 mix of white vinegar/distilled water with the intent of running the car for a few days to flush the cooling system.

then BAM out of nowhere, a leak that appears to be water and red fluid coming from the transmission area. I quickly check the dip stick and YIKES, we are two quarts over capacity. plus the transmission fluid now
has a clear slightly brown tinge to it. .
I don't know about your seal question, but it sounds like your radiator had an aneurysm?!! Yikes! Hopefully you're not going to even drive it to the shop...
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2010, 04:26 PM
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no, it will get a ride on a flat bed tow truck. yikes is right, right after
all this engine work and now this. the lesson here appears to be that
if your radiator is even slightly suspect, install a new one. otherwise,
the car could end up like this.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2010, 04:35 PM
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I love my manual trans even MORE now
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  #5  
Old 02-25-2010, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
the lesson here appears to be that
if your radiator is even slightly suspect, install a new one.
Seems to me that the lesson should have something to do with not using home-brew radiatior flushes.
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  #6  
Old 02-25-2010, 08:57 PM
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X2 tango.
Never use an uninhibited acid as a cleaner. Vinegar is acetic acid and will remove metal.
The workshop manual for the trans suggests that coolant /water in the trans can ruin LB3 friction disk & B2 band and recommends their replacement following this sort of thing if engagement in D or R becomes harsh (page 113 of ATSG manual). The trans fluid coil in the radiator has failed, you have probably damaged the radiator core as well.
The use of these old fashion cleaners may have worked with the old heavy copper radiators, Benz's have alloy cores and your model may have a aluminum trans cooling coil in the bottom tank.
Good luck with your visit to the repair shop.
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1984 300D 500k miles
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  #7  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:16 PM
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The trans coil in the bottom tank on my 84 300sd is alluminum. I would install new radiator trailer car to a shop that can do a 17-18 quart fluid exchange while the car is running. I would use Justice Brothers TS/500 transmission service kit. I know this works good on mud race trucks that have gotten the trans full of water.
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  #8  
Old 02-25-2010, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskyMan View Post
this is on the 1984 300DT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Seems to me that the lesson should have something to do with not using home-brew radiatior flushes.
Nah, the "REAL" lesson should be to stand behind that car and see if there is another letter after "300D"........
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  #9  
Old 02-25-2010, 10:36 PM
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Nah, the "REAL" lesson should be to stand behind that car and see if there is another letter after "300D"........
Jimmy,
I just received my 250,000 km award from MB. The certificate lists the model as 300D-T. Unbelievable.
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  #10  
Old 02-25-2010, 11:27 PM
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Yah, Jimmy you may be fighting a losing battle. Just yesterday I called up my favorite local imports parts place and asked for a brake cable for an 84 300D after a very long pause on the other end the gal. (not a regular behind the counter) says "uh, there is no 300D." I reply, "How about 300DT?", Her; "Oh yeah, here it is."
I had to chuckle to myself.
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2010, 03:23 AM
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There are 300D's I have an 84. Just not in the USA. All 300D's from that era down here are NA. They didnt make RHD turbos.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
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1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:52 AM
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Replace the radiator and have it towed to a shop to flush the transmission.

Right now you have about a 50/50 chance of not needing to rebuild the transmission, drive it and that will change...
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  #13  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:13 AM
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To save money.First drain pan and T.C. disconnect radiator lines and plug them.Adapt trans line to a after market cooler.Disconnect one line from cooler as you pour in new ATF.When color is no longer milky(pink).reconnect lines,and fill transmission.
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  #14  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:42 AM
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OK, just spoke with a transmission shop. he said DO NOT START THE CAR FOR ANY REASON. I plan to heed that advice. he said to drain the transmission and the torque converter and then have the car towed to the dealership for a complete fluid exchange and refill.

I'm thinking of changing the transmission filter and adding standard ATF since the dealership will most likely refill with mercedes brand ATF.
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  #15  
Old 02-26-2010, 12:15 PM
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Having a dealership or transmission shop do the flush is a waste of money. The damage is done, maybe, already. Drain the transmission and the converter. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the radiator and connect them together with a short section of oil-grade hose and some clamps. Pour in fresh fluid, start engine, cycle the shifter through the gears. Run for a few minutes like this. Dump the fluid from the trans and the converter. Pour in fresh fluid again and go for a spin around the block. If all seems well then you likely escaped an expensive mistake. Replace the radiator, hook up the transmission cooler lines correctly, drive for a day and then change the fluid, filter, etc. one more time.

Why pay to take an old car to the dealership or trans shop where, if the car is in need of repair, they now have it hostage? A simple fluid change and rerouting the cooling lines out of the damaged radiator will allow easy diagnosis. Whats it going to cost? A five gallon pail of ATF, some oil hose and an afternoon? Its the same thing the shop is going to do.

RT

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