I would like to get some opinions on what to do after 1 year and $7k spent. - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #31 02-26-2010, 09:49 AM

The price he quoted you seems about right for a decent job.

The location of the rust maters, if its underneath its terminal, just drive it. If its something that can be replaced like fenders or doors than its not such a big deal. As long as the jack points, suspension mounts, and frame rails are solid than the car is worth fixing.

I'd avoid driving it in salt to prevent the further spread.

1stbenznc · #32 02-26-2010, 09:49 AM

If the rest of the car shines and is pretty decent, just get the bad spots done. I had two sections of bubbles pop up on our 69 Olds 442 show car. The shop cut out the areas, welded new metal and colormatched for about $500. Your will likely not need that extensive surgury.

Just have it spot treated.....and if you want to burn your money spend it on something fun like a big LCD TV, traveling, or a cruise or something

.....or maybe a reserve for the next repairs

rwthomas1 · #33 02-26-2010, 11:00 AM

You have several options:
-Spend the $5K, that coin at a reputable shop should have "like new" results.

-Do a partial disassembly yourself. Removing bumper, trim, door handles, etc. saves a LOT of time (labor/cost) for the bodyshop. I did a car this way a few years back and the cost was cut in half. In a couple of weekends you can remove almost everything and save some bucks. Discuss this option with the bodyshop. Mine was very receptive to it as they would rather paint and repair metal than deal with the trim.

-Find a cheaper shop. It is possible to do very nice spot repairs. My standard is "does it look good from 10ft"?? If its shiny and pretty straight then what more can you ask? Its not a show vehicle, its a driver.

The main point here is that, as the song says, "rust never sleeps" Any older car needs to be inspected regularly and any rust found needs to be stopped right then or at least slowed down. Its pretty simple really, sanding, wirewheel work, prime, paint will go a long way in keeping the spread under control. I also like Waxoyl and Fluid Film for surfaces that can't be seen. Attention to detail, before and after the bodywork will keep the car looking its best.

RT

leathermang · #34 02-26-2010, 11:31 AM

Fluid Film can be bought at many tractor dealers... in case one has trouble finding it locally...
It is pure sheep oil...
When the sheep are pressed to get the oil they make a terrible screeching baaaaing sound...
but the product is very good and highly recommended especially for areas prone to rusting but which can only be reached with a spray.

gerkebi · #35 02-26-2010, 12:11 PM

The 116 chassis is such a classic to those who appreciate it, but on the market the valuations languish. If you intend to keep it and not try to recoup, I'd go for the repaint. You can't get anything comparable for even the total you'll have in it.

tr1cky · #36 02-26-2010, 12:14 PM

There are too many factors not discussed to determine whether or not $5k is a worthwhile investment. With the way the car looks right now from those pictures, I can't imagine that it has been abused or is in need of serious rust repair.

Proper rust repair should result in the removal of rusted material as to ensure it does not return.

Certain parts of the car when rusted can be determined nearly terminal, unless cost and time for repair are not a factor. Even then, the repair may not ensure a perfect result even by the best of the body knockers.

When I look at a car, I will usually buy it if the price is right and there is no rust. To me the price can't be right if there is rust.

The 116 SD is a dying breed. There aren't many great examples like yours on the road.

IMHO, shop around and get multiple quotes and opinions. Get a detailed diganosis of the rust and its locations. Is it superficial surface rust on a movable/removable part or is it through rust on a structural part?

A good paint job should be thousands by a reputable shop. You're paying for the time, labor, materials, business costs, profit, but most importantly the time and expertise of the technician(s).

Skid Row Joe · #37 02-26-2010, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Hmmm? I'll probably be putting my 79SD up for sale in a few weeks, 122k, rust free. Don't think I'd be willing to put $5k into paint work if it needed it.

How about a price and some pictures?

To the OP; I would spend the $4 - $5k, but shop for a better price - unless this guy is the best.

JB3 · #38 02-26-2010, 01:48 PM

The rust you describe sounds like nothing, and the pics show a beautiful car in beautiful shape. That is kind of a large price. I got quoted at least 3000 less and I could stick my head the floor in several places. We definitely need to see some pics

Where are you located?

Heres kind of a weird idea. If you live in an area that does not deal with rust on a daily basis, you find shops that can't deal with rust, and overcharge to repair it poorly. The have no experience, and therefore are not skilled in that field. Think if it like specialization. If you were a dentist, would you work in an area where no one has tooth problems? How good would your skills be with no practice?

If you live in the rust belt, then I would get some other quotes, you have to find a place that actually replaces the damaged parts with metal, instead of slapping bondo or fiberglass over the problem.

I moved out of the rust belt for a couple years and found guys who would not even work on rust and just say "it cant be repaired because it comes back". These are guys who just slap bondo over a rust problem. The same question back home would be answered with about 5 ways to repair it.

You may spend WAY less finding a good rust repair shop in the rust belt, and shipping the car to them.
Heres an example of a good shop, look at what these guys can do in their gallery-
http://www.autorust.com/

leathermang · #39 02-26-2010, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Fluid Film can be bought at many tractor dealers... in case one has trouble finding it locally...
It is pure sheep oil...
When the sheep are pressed to get the oil they make a terrible screeching baaaaing sound...
but the product is very good and highly recommended especially for areas prone to rusting but which can only be reached with a spray.

WHAT ??????
No protestations about how inhumane that is to the sheep ?

Jeremy5848 · #40 02-26-2010, 02:58 PM

$5000 should get you a profession rust-repair job and a good paint job including R&R of all of the trim. If you are planning to keep the car, have the $5000, and have a professional opinion that there are no other expensive jobs hiding somewhere, I would recommend going ahead with the repair. That should buy you 10 to 20 years of a really nice car.

If you want to keep the car but have a problem with the $5000, I would patch the rusty areas as best you can following the many threads on this and other forums. Some/all of that can be DIY and inexpensive. The risk is that the rust will continue to spread but you will get a few more years out of the car before more money is required or before it dissolves.

jkubica · #41 02-26-2010, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forat2

I have a lovely 1980 300SD, the interior is near perfect 9.5 out of 10, the wood shines like it was new. I have spent close to $5000 in repairs in the last year including timing chain (and all that is associated with this), brakes, rotors, tie rods, etc. All that is left now is the body, which has rust bubbles in a number of areas. I was quoted at $4000-$5000 to take care of the rust and repaint the entire car by a very reputable shop, although the shop owner recommended just scrapping the car for a non-rusted one. So the dilemna is, to take his advice and consider the $7k already spent as sunk costs or to go ahead and spend the $5k for paint? What do you guys think?
Thanks!

Hi
I don't think anyone can look at owning an old 123 as an investment.

The better question is: Do you get enough enjoyment from owning and driving the car to justify what its costing you.

You may notice that many members here - do much or all of the needed repair work themselves. In that way they combine the joys of having a hobby with low per-mile automotive expense on an automobile that they love owning and driving.
Regards,
Joseph

JHZR2 · #42 02-26-2010, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skippy

As I see it, you're looking at a total cost of $11k to achieve something providing a driving experience not available from any new car at any price. Also keep in mind that you'd be putting that SD into a condition approximating nearly new with the potential to last several decades. I say spend the five grand.

I would tend to agree with this, except that the w116 cars are known to be "rust buckets" and are prone to getting rusty... and when Ive seen rust repairs done, Ive seen it come back.

If the conditions are right:
-no salt exposure
-typically garaged
-regularly waxed and maintained

Then Id do it. Otherwise, I fear that the rust repaired, or other new rust would show up, destroying the investment.

Again, if I was going to repaint, Id try to look, where applicable, for parts from truly rust free southern cars.

I'd also invest the time/effort to take it up to canada and get it done at Krown rust control. Most of those places are historically a ripoff, but Krown looks to be the real deal, with a quality stable product. Ill be taking my SOCAL 300CD up for the work at some point.

JHZR2 · #43 02-26-2010, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

$5000 should get you a profession rust-repair job and a good paint job including R&R of all of the trim. If you are planning to keep the car, have the $5000, and have a professional opinion that there are no other expensive jobs hiding somewhere, I would recommend going ahead with the repair. That should buy you 10 to 20 years of a really nice car.

If you want to keep the car but have a problem with the $5000, I would patch the rusty areas as best you can following the many threads on this and other forums. Some/all of that can be DIY and inexpensive. The risk is that the rust will continue to spread but you will get a few more years out of the car before more money is required or before it dissolves.

One thing I think would be helpful even as a sticky, is from some autro body folks to list the soup-to-nuts rust repair and paint job if cost was no objective. This would be helpful for folks with cherry vintage cars who are facing or may face rust...