I know this is not diesel-specific, but us diesel guys are more mechanical, right? I have a plastic pan on my '95 E300D. Those of you with the plastic pans know that they are mounted with a hex headed screw with a built on washer, maybe 3/4" diameter. The screw screws into a small, spring loaded piece which fits in a square opening of the frame of the car and/or radiator supports, etc.

Well, that small spring loaded piece in the frame is very troublesome and prone to either falling out or the threads stripping or whatever. It gets bent and you have to try to reshape it, etc. It's a PITA.

I would love to have a secure method of being able to attach the belly pan. Has anyone come up with something to fit in that small square hole to receive that mounting screw?

Rgds,
Chris W.
two MB's with plastic pans...

weld a nut somehow

My panels are off right now but I know the pieces you're talking about. When I put them back on, I plan on intalling a wide headed sheet metal screw in the frame next to the spring holder thing and using the head of the screw to secure the spring thing into it's place.

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

I was able to pick up some plastic body fasteners at Autozone that did the job for me. The one I used looked like a large wood screw design. The threads were larger at the top of the screw. As you screw it in, the threads were big enough to wedge themselves into the square hole and held pretty tight. You might also consider using a butterfly expansion screw that you can find in almost any hardware store. Not pretty, but it does the trick.

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96 E300d

My pans were pretty beat-up and some fasteners missing. I drilled and tapped some holes in the appropriate places and used new screws and washers.
The butterfly-bolt idea sounds good too. Steve

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1980 300 TD

1997 Dodge Pickup/Cummins 5.9 12-valve

I use nylon ratchet ties like for electrical work. You thread them through the old holes, and cut them off every time you drop the pan. They work great, and dont let go on the highway.....

I often fabricate my own 'speednuts' from galvanised sheet-metal - the type used for heating-ducts.
It's quicker and cheaper than hunting for some poorly-fitting, overpriced replacement at an autoparts store, and I can custom fit mine specifically for the application.
I fold the sheetmetal to make something like a 'U', 'N' or 'W', depending on how many layers/how much strength I'll need to grip the screw. Then I use a punch, instead of a drill, to make a cone-shaped hole for the screw to thread into. That way, the screw pulls the threaded-hole tighter, instead of stripping out of a flat, drilled hole. Because the sheetmatal isn't as rigid as a factory speed-nut, it's best to pre-thread it before installation.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

I like this idea and the "butterfly bolt" one also.
What does the plastic zip tie fasten to on the upper side of the mounting hole?
It's hard getting to the upside of the hole from the top to insert something for the tie to go around. Any hints on this?

About the two piece plastic "Push Pin in the Center " fasteners used in the
Trunk Lip... (MB calls them a "rivet")

[Might be the same size square hole in the under-body flange,that you use to
secure the "Mercedes Diaper" to the underside of the car.]

Somewhere I've seen them in white plastico...pop those babies in("Snap Fit")
the square hole in the frame flange...and then screw your securing screws.

Or just pick up four #62 and use the securing screws instead of the "Push Pin".

[Howeveah,the Zip Tie idea is the quickest,and probably cheapest]

Attached Thumbnails

   

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

My 95 has the belly pan. When I bought the car, I bought a supply of the screws and the "nuts." I've changed the oil myself every 5k miles from 113,000 to 242000, which means the belly pan gets pulled, and I have only had to replace one of those nuts.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

I've never had one come loose (knocking on wood).

If I changed it, I'd probably want to go to some 1/4 turn Dzus (SP?) fasteners with a wing-type head so I don't need a tool.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Id have to crawl under and look at my zip ties-- at the time it was pretty obvious and didnt require tools so I just got it done. I only have one pan under there while I think there are supposed to be two so maybe thats why it works.

On both my 300D and 300TD I took the pans off and left them off.

Any reason to put them back on?

I love the ease of changing the oil. i don't even think it takes an entire 10 minutes. The oil filter housing is a much better design then the one on the 617. (or at least easier)

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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

They are called "sound encapsulation panels", and do help keep the noise level down. Also keeps the engine bay cleaner IMO.

If you have panels, I'll happily buy them from you Wodnek.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

[QUOTE=Wodnek;2418300]On both my 300D and 300TD I took the pans off and left them off.

Any reason to put them back on?

Might possibly cut down on wind resistance?? On my car, there is a tower like contraption that is attached to the middle body pan. It is adjacent to the left motor mount right underneath the exhaust manifold. From doing searches, I believe it somehow cools the motor mount it is adjacent to.

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96 E300d