Konstan's 1982 300D Engine Out Thread
 

Great progress to report: the engine has officially been removed!

http://www.andresguns.com/images_oth...engine_out.jpg

The original goal was to find out what causes the knocking in the #1 cylinder. So, ... what do I do next:

- Disconnect the transmission?
- Get to the rod bearings (how?)
- Remove the complete oil pan

I do have the mbusa cd-rom manual...

well, I'll be J. Edgah Hoovah... he gone 'n dun it.....


Guess you'll be 'tearing this down'?

as mentioned in your previous thread, if you take the head off, push from above and below on each piston to 'inspect' the wrist pin bushings.

The Upper pan comes off pretty easy. Once you get all the bolts out, it will not want to come off.. it is glued on. Give it a few gentle whacks with a piece of wood or plastic hammer in the direction you would pull it off.

rod bearings are all accessible after removing the upper pan and oil pump.


good luck! and congrats. Hope the knock is remediable.


edit* I think I see why your engine was knocking.... yeah, the cruise actuator isn't plugged in. Better get that straightened out.

ps - please use a more stable setting on your cherry picker next time.... very scary.

Your engine lift arm is bending, be real careful

the arm looks straight to me.
it's seriously too far extended for the weight on the thing, but it does not appear to be bent.
the 1/4 ton setting would be for a 4cylinder gas motor only... 500lbs is not much weight.
the motor alone is 650 lbs dry. with all the stuff on it, and the transmission I would not go below 1/2 ton... preferably 3/4!

you should pull the arm out of the sleve, and take a picture of the end. I bet you have some stretched metal, if not cracked...

If you are going to remove the crank, you will need the tranny separated...

I would remove the tranny anyway just to put the engine on a stand.

yes.

Take the trans off.

separate it from engine by pulling parallel with the crankshaft

It looks bent to me, right at the end of the sleeve, which is what I meant...my engine lift nomenclature is not up to par with you guys:o

There is a little flaring there; I am going to have some welds added there to strengthen it before I use it again to put the motor back in.

Switched to 1/2 ton setting, sorry didnt mean to frighten y'all :D

Here is a pic of its other side. Yea its really dirty.

http://www.andresguns.com/images_oth...ngine_out2.jpg

but think just how satisfying its going to be cleaning it!:vbac47679

Yikes, that`s greasy. If it was driveable, you should have steamed cleaned it or gone to the car wash first.. at least get through the worst of it.

Sure make the job go a lot nicer when things are clean.

Charlie

Took the tranny off but it looks like in order to mount the engine on a stand there is a round drum-looking thing in the way.

Is this the torque converter? Do I remove it by unbolting the bolts through the 'window' in the back of the motor?

Yep, yep.

Great pictures Konstan, been keeping up with this thread...good luck with your work!

In my opinion to remove and reinstall the upper pan correctly, you'll need to remove the flywheel and the intermediate plate. Then you can mount the engine stand directly to the four bolt holes on the block. In doing so, moves the pivot point near the center of the engine and reduce the top heaviness (but still kind of top heavy).

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1267689481

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...0&d=1171341434




Unfortunately you have the same engine stand flange as I do... Wide.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1267689606



If you used that stand, you will have to make that flange work with the narrow block. I ended up using a bunch of spacers/washers/nuts, long & short bolts, and placing the engine stand arms in unusual positions to get the engine block secured to the stand. Doesn't look pretty but certainly got it nice and stable.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1175307311





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