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  #46  
Old 06-07-2010, 03:02 PM
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Hmmm.....

Sounds like Air in the pump to me....

--It aint your Vacuum stop-diaphragm device if you're getting flow from at leat ONE HP outlet!

Pump the PRIMER on the lift-pump, on the side of main IP, until you hear a sorta buzz coming from the back of Injection-pump.
--This is the pressure-reg. valve doing its stuff and will only buzz when the pump body is full of fuel--Which it HAS to be to work!
--You can check for air coming back from the IP Returning to the Filter-head as the return pipe From rear of IP is clear hard-plastic--Or should be!

Air in this line returns to the filter-head, then back to tank to 'self-bleed' the system--Keep priming until you see NO air in this line!

When you have got this done, Then re-try on starter and confirm fuel flow from each outlet on the pump--May take some turning to prime-up each 'Element' in the pump.

When they are all pumping, re-fit all the steel-lines and leave slack at Injector end. Spin on starter until fuel flows from each one.

Then tighten and try and start. Again, itmay take some turning, as maybe the Injectors have air in there too by now....

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-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

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  #47  
Old 06-08-2010, 12:08 PM
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So basically your saying the IP just went dry completely. My question is why would it get dry out of the blue while driving and engine slowly bogging down to a complete stop? What cause that?

I have tried to press the black manual pump bottom about 50-60 times and i didn't see a change. But that is basically what your asking me to do right?
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  #48  
Old 06-08-2010, 02:27 PM
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Lightbulb Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightOwl View Post
So basically your saying the IP just went dry completely. My question is why would it get dry out of the blue while driving and engine slowly bogging down to a complete stop? What cause that?

I have tried to press the black manual pump bottom about 50-60 times and i didn't see a change. But that is basically what your asking me to do right?
I suggest you supply beverage + pizza and have a local forum tech gathering at your car.
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  #49  
Old 06-08-2010, 03:21 PM
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Basically we did the manual pump button like 200 times and the press pressure never changed. Cranked the engine and still only one port squirts.

Then we removed the clear line from the manual pump to the spin off fuel filter. Pressed the manual pump and in deed the manual pump works as fuel did gush.

Then we removed the line that comes from the spin off filter to the ip. Press the manual pump button and fuel came out from both the ip and the clear line that came from spin off filter.

So it seems like their is fuel coming to the ip. Trying to figure out what other test to run.
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  #50  
Old 06-08-2010, 03:44 PM
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When you operate the primer, does the pump make a sorta buzzing/squeak noise...?

the plastic pipe from the back of pump does this have any air-bubbles in it...??

--There are Loads of reasons Why air may have entered the system!
BTW, Have you replaced the spin-on cannister fuel-filter...?

Fuel may come out when any of these lines are disconnected, but there must be NO AIR inside the main IP for it to work! --Its MOST important to check that fuel-line from the back of the pump when priming and it must have NO AIR bubbles at all when pumping the primer.....

Any air inside the main IP will STOP it working!
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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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  #51  
Old 06-08-2010, 04:02 PM
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the pump doesn't make any buzzing noise. Its fairly easy to press too. In fact, if you look at the "clear fuel filter" it seems like when you press the pump button, the fuel moves forward and then back to original spot according to the air bobble in the clear filter.
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  #52  
Old 06-08-2010, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightOwl View Post
the pump doesn't make any buzzing noise. Its fairly easy to press too. In fact, if you look at the "clear fuel filter" it seems like when you press the pump button, the fuel moves forward and then back to original spot according to the air bobble in the clear filter.
This has been mentioned on site before. There are check valves in the lift pump. I am not saying that is the problem just an observation.

The guys fuel was surging back and forth if I remember. Anyways since you cannot get a buzz on something is wrong. Also it should become harder to push after awhile as you overpower the return valve that causes the buzz.
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  #53  
Old 06-08-2010, 08:47 PM
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When I read the first few posts it reminded me of exactly what happened to my 85D. Just quit while driving. After much diagnosis among them changed fuel filters, it turned out to be air in the line.... caused by rusted fuel lines between the tank and the engine.
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  #54  
Old 06-11-2010, 10:07 AM
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About how many times do i need to press the button before i should expect it to get harder to push?

Also the "clear filter" before the pump has a big 1" air bobble that never seems to go away. It moves around but always comes back. Should their be a bobble? If not, how can i get rid of it?
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  #55  
Old 06-11-2010, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightOwl View Post
About how many times do i need to press the button before i should expect it to get harder to push?

Also the "clear filter" before the pump has a big 1" air bobble that never seems to go away. It moves around but always comes back. Should their be a bobble? If not, how can i get rid of it?
bubble never goes away. always there to some degree.
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  #56  
Old 06-11-2010, 10:50 AM
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I've read 100 to 150 times and sometimes that does not work. Pretty ridiculous ha? Use a long wooden rod to push the primer so you don't lose skin!

When I ran out of fuel on my 240D due to a leaky hose at the tank, I could not prime the system using methods prescribed.

Loosen the return banjo bolt (facing engine block) on the IP a little, then push the primer to get the majority of the air out of the IP first. When fuel comes out of the loosened IP banjo bolt, tighten it and keep pumping to get fuel up to (and air out of) the spin on fuel filter. Then crack one of the nuts on an injector and crank till it wants to fire. Tighten the injector nut and crank. If there's fuel going to the injectors and you have good glow plugs, it should run.
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  #57  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishflyer View Post
I was always under the impression, running several diesels and doing my own maintenance on my semi engines that when valves wear, they wear tight, as the springs pull upwards on the valves, not loose as to lose compression. Every time I have adjusted the valves on my 300 or my semi, I had to increase the gap between the valve and the cam. You can get to the point that they won't open up enough, and cause loss of power, but I don't think this is the case here of not allowing it to restart.
I think that depends on the engine. In your case with the semi's it sounds like the stem and lobes wear causing the valve train to wear shut. In a OM 617 however, I believe that the valves settle in their seats and thus wear "open". I may be wrong though...
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  #58  
Old 06-14-2010, 12:12 PM
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I think we will just go down to the junk yard and get a new injector pump.
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  #59  
Old 06-14-2010, 01:22 PM
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I just skimmed but I did not see a suggestion to use biocide to kill any biotic action in the tank.

A loss of compression might also do this....from running with gasoline in the tank or low on coolant.

(Don't ask how I know this)
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  #60  
Old 06-14-2010, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightOwl View Post
I think we will just go down to the junk yard and get a new injector pump.

First off, I would replace the Lift-Pump --Or at least strip, clean, check and re-assemble it!

Main IP will be fine, They dont just Quit on ya, like that!

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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