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  #1  
Old 03-04-2010, 02:42 AM
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Exclamation 1985 Mercedes 300d Engine died while driving

So on the 1985 Mercedes 300d turbo diesel . Its a every day driver. Just pulled into the neighborhood and before i can make it to my house the Mercedes stalls and dies. Tried to crank the engine and it wouldn't start. I just came off a 20 mile run.

Next day i checked the lift pump for diesel, all seemed flowing good. I sprayed a bunch of starting fueled into the air intake and also removed my air filter and it still wouldn't start. I replaced the lift pump thinking maybe it wasn't getting enough fuel pressure and also primed it bunch of times. Still nothing. Check the fuses and everything seems good..

Can it be the CPS fail? How do i test that?

Any ideas what the problem might be?> Very strange. Any help, thanks ahead of time.

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  #2  
Old 03-04-2010, 06:57 AM
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You replaced the lift pump before you tried replacing the two fuel filters or cleaning the tank strainer?? Check the filters and tank strainer! And STOP with the starting fluid! Explosive vapor + hot glow plugs = BOOM
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2010, 09:15 AM
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Good advice. Use WD40 if you feel you "have to use a starting fluid". Never use ether.

Is your primer pump the older style (white one)? If so, be sure the o-ring is seating properly against the pump body.

You can reverse the supply and return lines to clear the screen in a pinch. Or just blow compressed air through the supply line in a burst.

When was the last time you replaced the fuel filters? The primary should be changed every oil change and the secondary can go about 3 times as long if you do not have any biological fuel related problems.
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2010, 09:20 AM
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What's CPS?
While you shouldn't be using ether unless you unplug the glow plugs (even then it is dicey), the fact that it won't fire on ether is odd. It is also odd that it quit running as you were driving. Usually that is a result of not getting fuel. Any chance this car has been running on WVO?
Crack an injector hard line and turn the engine over to see if it is getting fuel to the injectors and then report back.
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2010, 11:22 AM
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Trouble shooting by replacing parts is expensive (unless you have a parts car), labor intensive and sometimes creates more problems for you.

As previously stated loosen the Fuel Injection Line nuts and deterring if you are getting fuel or not.
If you are not getting Fuel from there and your Engine cranking speed is good; next is the Filter change. (Fill the Spin-on Filter with Fuel and start pumping on your hand primer until you hear a buzzing or squishing sound coming from the Fuel Injection Pump.)

If still no Fuel; make sure you have at leas 1/2 tank or more of Fuel and exchange the Fuel Inlet hose with the Fuel Outlet hose (Cigar Hose). And, start pumping on the Hand Primer again. This will bypass your Fuel Tank Screen incase it is plugged.

The other way is to run a longer Fuel Inlet Hose to a container with clean Diesel Fuel and Hand Prime again.

Again leave the Nuts on the Fuel Injection Lines at the Injector loose until you see fuel coming out while you are cranking the Engine before you tighten the Nuts.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2010, 11:30 AM
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Reason why my old man replaced the fuel pump was because he just replaced the fuel filter like 4-5 months ago (only drives this car to work and back) (30 miles a day). I for example told him not to replace it because i thought i saw enough fuel coming when we cranked it and had the fuel line unscrewed by filter bolt. But he had a spare from his other Mercedes so he gave it a try.

No this thing doesn't run WVO and never did, i wish though. When done properly it can actually prolife the engine if the oil is de-water and clean correctly with the correct system installed.

As side WVO, what concerns me is it will not even fire for a second on starting flulid. This starting fluid is made for gas and diesel einges so it should be safe to use unless the company of starting fluid wants to get suid by happy sue people. Thanks for the W40 tip though

Someone mention the tank area? There is another filter their?
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2010, 12:03 PM
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Spoke with Whunter on the phone. Gave me a lot of pointers where to start and how to clean the tank filter. I will give it a shot this weekend with my old man and get back with you guys with results.

I appreciate the phone conversation, really thanks a bunch fella's for YOUR TIME, like i said we will give an update later if fixed or not.
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2010, 01:15 PM
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Data

Location: Washington state.
Inner city low speed driving 20 miles per day, roughly three years.


* Primer pump is the spring loaded black piston style.
* 2-3 years no valve adjustment.
* Fuel filters replaced October 2009.
* Battery run down, re-charging NOW.

Diagnostic advice:

** Adjust the valves, install a NEW valve cover gasket...
** Remove fuel fill cap, disconnect clear fuel filter, and blow 15-20 psi air through fuel line to clear (possible) plugged tank strainer.
** Replace the fuel filters, pre-filling with ATF.
** Pump the primer 100 strokes.

#1. Glow until you hear the relay clunk (turn off).
#2. Try to start, cranking a maximum of 30 seconds.
#3. Wait 15 minutes, to allow the starter to cool down.
#4. Repeat as needed.

He will be using a heavy 100 AMP battery charger..



Have a great day..
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2010, 01:19 PM
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Links that will help you.

Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

Fuel Delivery:
Diesel Fuel Delivery:

Diesel Injection:
Diesel Injection:

Valve adjustment OM617 FYI.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Location: Washington state.

Diagnostic advice:

** Adjust the valves, install a NEW valve cover gasket...


Have a great day..

Question: why adjust the valves? Is it to try to eliminate the possibility of a dropped valve or broken timing chain?

I'm not being critical, just curious.
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stimpy451 View Post
Question: why adjust the valves? Is it to try to eliminate the possibility of a dropped valve or broken timing chain?

I'm not being critical, just curious.
Valve clearance can decrease to the point where the valves are not sealing tightly, thereby reducing compression.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:18 PM
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"I sprayed a bunch of starting fueled into the air intake"
How long have you been doing that for?

"This starting fluid is made for gas and diesel einges so it should be safe to use unless the company of starting fluid wants to get suid by happy sue people."
Um, wrong. Starting fluid is made to sell. Just like so many other awful products out there...
Starting fluid can and will destroy a MBZ diesel. Really will wreak havoc fast if done in conjunction with plugs glowing.
All the great minds on this forum agree: never, ever use starting fluid. Check the archives on this one.
(that said, do not panic, these are tough engines. just don't do it anymore)

You are in good hands here, follow their advice.
i will say this: a friend had a similar problem, we were convinced it was fuel related. Went through every darn part in the system. Turns out there were 4 dead glow plugs, and a leaking primer pump, until these were both fixed WD 40 and even ether would not start the pig. But she would pop periodically.

What flavor smoke you getting out the tailpipe when you crank her?
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2010, 03:26 PM
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Agree

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy Joe View Post
"I sprayed a bunch of starting fueled into the air intake"
How long have you been doing that for?

"This starting fluid is made for gas and diesel einges so it should be safe to use unless the company of starting fluid wants to get suid by happy sue people."
Um, wrong. Starting fluid is made to sell. Just like so many other awful products out there...
Starting fluid can and will destroy a MBZ diesel. Really will wreak havoc fast if done in conjunction with plugs glowing.
All the great minds on this forum agree: never, ever use starting fluid. Check the archives on this one.
(that said, do not panic, these are tough engines. just don't do it anymore)

You are in good hands here, follow their advice.
i will say this: a friend had a similar problem, we were convinced it was fuel related. Went through every darn part in the system. Turns out there were 4 dead glow plugs, and a leaking primer pump, until these were both fixed WD 40 and even ether would not start the pig. But she would pop periodically.

What flavor smoke you getting out the tailpipe when you crank her?
"Ether", use and abuse. *Flame suit on*
"Ether", use and abuse. *Flame suit on*
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2010, 05:18 PM
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Died while driving has to be only three things basically as these cars are so simple. A lost fuel feed. You took on a load of really bad fuel probably basically water within the last hour you were driving it. Or mechanical failure.

Most types of serious mechanical failure you would have been aware of as soon as you tried to restart. The car should have at least barked once with the either. That may have depended on how you were administrating the either though.
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  #15  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:45 PM
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Update:

Never did any vavle adjustment yet because it really doesn't make sense to.... Plus i just dont think it would just die like that and show zero effort in wanting to start after many times of cranking. We did however do air compressor psi flush back to clear any filter clog in the tank.

My dads machnical friend came by the other day and they tested the fuel lines coming out of the fuel injector pump unit and none fuel was came out. Looks like he needs to rebuild or buy a new/used injector pump which im am sure is a bunch of money.

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