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  #31  
Old 03-06-2010, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
LOL, well, now you have heard differently...
it is made of spring quality metal and heat treated so that it can bend both directions millions of times without ( hopefully ) breaking.
It is sorta averaging the input from the wheels individually and the body of the vehicle.... to decrease/limit roll ... which in certain instances can affect the steering ability of the front wheels....
I don't really know how to prove this to you... would you consider the fact that I am now 61 and worked a summer in a spring and brake shop and have played blacksmith at various times... and have had a pre world war 2 Miller Tig since 1972 ? ... None of those things is hard evidence of course.. LOL
I agree.
Welding; melting the metal changes the grain structure of the metal as does how it is cooled arter melting.
Metals with High Carbon content tend to get hard and brittle when heated to near the meliting point and cooled quickly.
Not knowing what type of Steel the Swaybar is made of there is no way to predict what might happen if it is welded.

Since the Front Sway Bar Repair kit requires Welding and I have read of no failures from the kti installation there is at least some evidence that you can get away with it. However, the kit installation is not the same as welding 2 unattached pieces that have to hold together only by the weld.

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  #32  
Old 03-08-2010, 05:17 PM
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83, is that year a turbo? If so, consider early spooling and anti-lag strategies to help your power as well. I feel for your tranny as I write these words though.

Before start, rev the engine and get the turbo spooled.

Downshift into corners (you should do that anyway to shoot out of the apex) to keep rev's up and turbo spooled, could probably run the whole autoX in 1 and 2.

Don't know if you have an EGR air cleaner with butterfly, but if you do, make sure that it closes fully when not at WOT. This may keep the turbo from doing any work when your foot is anyplace but the floor, keeping the turbo spooled. Illegal modification of the butterfly so that it blocks the opening more completely when closed may enhance this effect, and make your car smoke dramatically.

Messing with the ALDA so that you overboost will put more kinetic energy into the turbo. This means it will take more time to spool down out of the boost range.

Water injection into the exhaust manifold might help it extract more energy from the exhaust. Looking into it would be a neat thermodynamics exercise.

Again, think about the fatigue properties of steel when you toss this beast around:
If something loads steel to half it's yield strength, classically, you can do that an infinite number of times, no harm. If something loads steel to 95% of it's yield strength, you've got a thousand cycles. Keep an eye on the body and suspension anchors, etc.
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  #33  
Old 04-05-2010, 08:48 PM
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19 mm results

Well, it's time for my update. The 19 mm welded bar, stock mounts and stock links are holding up just fine. I have 1000 miles on it freeway, city and Oak Creek Canyon. I was going to hang it out in Oak Creek Canyon but it was snowy and wet so I had to behave. I haven't made it to an autox track yet but I have pushed it some and definately like it.
I have been asked to do a DIY so I guess I will make another one with pictures along the way. I don't need another one but would like to trade it when its done for a TD front bar for my 123. So with that said if anyone is interested in a trade let me know. Thanks and good luck to anyone making a bar. It's fairly easy with the right tools. Thanks
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  #34  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DocSarvis View Post
Well, it's time for my update. The 19 mm welded bar, stock mounts and stock links are holding up just fine. I have 1000 miles on it freeway, city and Oak Creek Canyon. I was going to hang it out in Oak Creek Canyon but it was snowy and wet so I had to behave. I haven't made it to an autox track yet but I have pushed it some and definately like it.
I have been asked to do a DIY so I guess I will make another one with pictures along the way. I don't need another one but would like to trade it when its done for a TD front bar for my 123. So with that said if anyone is interested in a trade let me know. Thanks and good luck to anyone making a bar. It's fairly easy with the right tools. Thanks
how do you put a 19mm sway bar in place of a 13mm bar using the same hardware? that's 6mm more room for the bushings and you'd need a beefier bracket to hold it in place

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  #35  
Old 04-06-2010, 10:02 AM
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The 19 mm rubber bushings fit the original MB mounting brackets. My car has very little rust so the mounts are holding up fine. Thanks

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