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Anti-sway bar 19mm versus 13mm
I have been tuning on my 123 getting ready to run against my son at autocross. So I wanted a stiffer antisway bar. With a used Toyota truck 19mm bar, a torch and a welder I now have an exact fit 19mm bar. It feels good on the street corners. My only concern is ripping the mounts out. But that goes with the MOD territory. If it fails I'll update. Thanks
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold |
#2
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Quote:
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#3
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Doesn't suspension mods put you in the same class as the fire-breathing homebuilt rail-cars, stripped down jettas and such?
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
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I think it was an 84 4x4 or a 79 2 wheel drive. No pictures but it wasn't even close to the shape or length I needed. It was 19mm and what I had at the time. It didn't seem to lose strength with heat. Not enough to tell for what I'm doing. As far as welding use a low hydrogen rod. As far as autocross goes we're just playing and unless they read this they can't tell it's a mod. My son has a new WRX so it's not very fair anyway but we will have fun. Thanks
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold |
#5
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As far as the sway bar links are concerned, the V8 w116 bodies came with metal links, not plastic like the ones on the standard w123. I heard Moog makes steel links but have not been able to confirm that.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#6
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That is a pretty big difference in vehicles. The 84 4x4 had SAS with leaf springs. I had one years ago. I don't remember it having a sway bar. I also had an 87 and a 95 Toyota 4x4. Both of those had the IFS, torsion bars and sway bars. All of those trucks had lifts and 35" or 38" tires.
The 79 4x2 had one for sure.
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) |
#7
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I'm running the steel links on my SD with a stay bar off a 116. not 19mm, but its alot stiffer then the stock 13mm. the metal links are holding up well, its been about 2.5 years now.
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#8
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The 560SEC/SEL with SLS came with a 17.25mm swaybar.
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System |
#9
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two questions-
1- what ever made them to decide to use those plastic links in the first place!? I accidentally popped both of mine off by hand working on the rear suspension on my wagon, now I have to replace them. 2- Could you also increase the stiffness by eliminating the swivel joint links and replacing them with a more mainstream bushing type link? I could see a fairly simple mod where you just weld a couple horizontal ears on the sway bar and hub, then just use a link off of a GM or something The different configuration might allow you to limit travel without having to source another sway bar, theoretically
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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr. |
#10
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Lets see, I had a 79 2x4 toyota that I parted out and yes it had torsion bars and I have a 84 toyota 4x4 that had a sway bar and we removed it so we could wheel it. So I don't remeber which it came off of but like I said it wasn't close. I kinda wanted to see what heating and bending and welding on a bar would do and how long it will last. As far as getting better performance with a different link that doesnt pivot I do'nt think so but someone else can R&D that. Thanks
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold |
#11
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Changing the rear bar is verbooten in stock class. I suppose you would be in ESP or similar.
I used to autocross my 84 123 mercedes 280e euro.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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You can push it towards oversteer by overinflating the rear tires. Make sure the suspensions of your cars are tip top, and that you're willing to replace anything that tossing the car around breaks. I had rusty wheel wells in my 79 SAAB, an autocross helped one of the suspension links pull out of the wheel well =8-0
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CC: NSA All things are burning, know this and be released. 82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin 12 Ford Escape 4wd You're four times It's hard to more likely to concentrate on have an accident two things when you're on at the same time. a cell phone. www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there? |
#13
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A sway bar is a spring.
Did you have this item heat treated after you did the welding ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#14
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Quote:
not arguing, looking for more information. thanks.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#15
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I'm prepared to work on the car if I tear something up. It's my hobby. The bar is definately "springy". Without doing more work than I wanted I don't know the true effects of heating it to bend it or welding it but... I also don't know if 19mm is too heavy or too light for what I am doing. I do know it was still "springy" after heating and bending it and as for welding it those points will act different ( my guess more resistance to bending) making the bar stiffer in those areas but more prone to breaking. The welds won't break but the bar might on either side of the welds. On the other hand the bar is so much bigger than the original I thing the mounts or the ends will fail first. R&D on the cheap and at its finest. Thanks
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold |
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