1984 190D 2.2 - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

04 Diesel · #46 03-14-2010, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sasquatchgeoff

looking at the engine bay from the front of the car: clockwise

have someone help by turning the engine over with the key. get the FSM - you will need instruction on compression testing as well as numerous other procedures in your journey. Without a manual you are depending on this forum or others for info, which won't last long.

good luck!
- Geoff

Yep, I am looking for a FSM right now. Thankyou for all your help.

04 Diesel · #47 03-14-2010, 05:35 PM

What size socket do I need to get the injector out? When I put injector back in do I need a new cruch washer?

Found it, it is a 27mm.

sasquatchgeoff · #48 03-14-2010, 11:56 PM

Crush washer = "heat shield" - yes, must be replaced. About a buck-fifty each.

NOTE: when using the deep-well socket take extreme care not to bend or break the hose barbs for the return lines. you will regret that mistake.

04 Diesel · #49 03-15-2010, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sasquatchgeoff

Crush washer = "heat shield" - yes, must be replaced. About a buck-fifty each.

NOTE: when using the deep-well socket take extreme care not to bend or break the hose barbs for the return lines. you will regret that mistake.

Yea, can I use a regular deep well socket or should I buy the special socket?

04 Diesel · #50 03-15-2010, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04 Diesel

First picture is the Alda with the vacume hose missing, the other two is the fuse box. It looks like I have two relays missing? Can anybody tell me what they are.

Can someone tell me does a vacume hose go on the alda, if so where does it go? Also in the other pictures what relay is missing? Thanks.

mplafleur · #51 03-15-2010, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04 Diesel

Can someone tell me does a vacume hose go on the alda, if so where does it go? Also in the other pictures what relay is missing? Thanks.

The vacuum hose only goes on the ALDA if it is turbo charged. Otherwise it just senses barometric pressure.

mplafleur · #52 03-15-2010, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04 Diesel

Yea, can I use a regular deep well socket or should I buy the special socket?

I've always just used a deep well socket. A 27mm I believe. The same I use for the crankshaft bolt.

04 Diesel · #53 03-15-2010, 09:26 AM

So the alda connection just stays open? Thanks for the info.

jobah · #54 03-15-2010, 09:52 AM

Alda=open
Regular deep 27 does the trick.

My 84 ran rough back, at this point, almost 15 years ago. Typically, during startup, it ran ok, then when it was warm the engine shaked. I replaced the motor mounts, the hydraulic tappets on the valves, the injectors, and even had the injector pump timing checked.

The problem turned out to be timing chain stretch and a lousy tensioner. I was told (although never verified, that the early 190D timing chain tensionsers were not well designed and had some failures). The problem had gotten so bad that the long guide upon which the tensioner acts had deep grooves almost through the black plastic.

I replaced the tensioner, the guides and the chain -- over 200kmi ago. No problems with running rough since then.

vstech · #55 03-15-2010, 10:29 AM

WAIT!!!

before attempting to remove the injectors, get the socket on there, and have the breaker bar set where you want it to loosen the injectors then HIT the handle of the wrench with your palm... DO NOT PUSH OR PULL WITH STEADY PRESSURE!!!

you're welcome!

ds190 · #56 03-15-2010, 11:43 AM

04Diesel, I have a good photocopy of the 601 factory engine manual, coil bound in two sections.

Also, two rear KYB schocks used for 15K miles.

PM sent.

04 Diesel · #57 03-15-2010, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

WAIT!!!

before attempting to remove the injectors, get the socket on there, and have the breaker bar set where you want it to loosen the injectors then HIT the handle of the wrench with your palm... DO NOT PUSH OR PULL WITH STEADY PRESSURE!!!

you're welcome!

Thankyou, Why am I doing it that way?

04 Diesel · #58 03-15-2010, 03:04 PM

Also I have bought two different 27mm deep well sockets and they both dont fit. What is going on? The sockets arent deep enough.

04 Diesel · #59 03-15-2010, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasinthesun

Oh yeah ,I remember now ,these had a problem with the vacuum pump arm ,unreliable .Mine had weak braking and no shut down due to the pump .Pulled the vac pump and found it had hand grenaded.In further study and research of the pumps demize I learned of its issues ,the arm piece on the pump that rolls up and down a turning piece off the crank (like a roller coaster) .That arm broke sending metal further down into the block gallery.Its a bit of a mystery were all the metal went but its safe to say I would start here.I fixed it with a vac pump off a 2.5 88 190d ,matched up and was better built.Had power brakes and correct shut down .This is probably why the car was so cheap ,but a very good motor .Clean out the pan if this does end up being the problem with the noise ,its the metal on metal of the pump and its pieces still riding on that roller piece.

Checked the vacuum pump today, hooked a gauge on the pump held at 20 lbs. That means the pump is doing its job? Right? Or should I just take it out and look at it?

ah-kay · #60 03-15-2010, 05:06 PM

Are you working full time on this baby? You need to make a note of what is wrong with the car and prioritize the issues. I did that with my 190D, it came with many issues too. I prioritized the issues and fixed it over 6 months.

I also bought a used 190D Haynes manual from eBay for $10 which is invaluable. I only bought the gas version as it is very similar except the engine. I asked questions on the diesel engine here. Alternately you can buy the diesel version but they are normally shipped from UK and is more expensive. I checked out all the electrical issues using the manual.

BTW: If your vacuum pump pulled vacuum and held it then it should be OK. I would not remove it.

You need to buy a deep 27mm, at least 3 inches deep to remove the injectors. I think the special Mercedes socket comes with 2 openings in the middle to make allowance for the hose barb. Do not break those !!