Yes, in order to have sufficient bushing thickness, (IMO), a properly sized urethane bushing and bracket will be needed for the larger bar. I will be providing the urethane bushings, brackets, and adapter plates to allow the larger bracket to bolt to chassis using the stock mount bolts, no drilling.

The plastic links will need to be replaced with the metal version at least. I am planning on making hime jointed turn buckles for links for mine so I can adjust the wedge on either side.

I have not decided if I will have the link mounting location adjustable or not. It will add cost, but if there is enough demand, it can be done as well.

UP Date;

I have also posted this information in the Performance Paddock section.

Almost ready to start bending 123 and 126 rear anti sway bars. I think I am going to use 1 inch bar stock, (25.4mm ish).

They are going to be pricier that I thought as the material prices have gone up since I last bought steel in any quantity. Price for each "KIT" is looking to be $375.00. The front bars, when I get to them, will cost more.

I am ordering enough material to make two extra rear bars than are already spoken for, (I'll make one for a 123, and one for a 126), as I am doubtful that many people will pay that much for a custom bar even though they are not available anywhere, but I could be wrong. I just can't afford to have money tied up in parts that I can't sell.

I'll post pictures when they are made.

honestly, no one is going to pay $375 for one anti-sway bar for a car that will never see the track. these are large and medium sized sedans which are mainly used for street use. 25mm might be overkill given that there aren't appropriately size-mated rears avaiable. you're going to have understeer without a proportionally matched size rear bar. now if you wanted to do $375 for both front and rear bars of the right size, with bushings and adjustable end links, guaranteed to fit, you've got yourself something right there

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Good to know that I am right some of the time. That is why I am not making extras. I am only making four 123 bars and two 126 bars that are already sold. The extra ones that I will make I will most likely use on future cars. These are special application bars for clients that requested them. I could smaller dia stock for the average driver, but that would not affect the price that much.

I will be making 1 1/2 inch bars for the front for the clients that ordered the rears bars.

I have a front bar in the stack of stuff from quartering the 240D.
You're welcome to borrow it.

Also, the front bar changeover seems easier than one might think.
Once the battery plate and brake booster are removed, a pair of access
panels that fair the bar to the wheel wells is revealed:



Once these fairing panels, the bar pivots on the firewall, and the upper
arms are removed, the bar can be slid and rotated up and over
the engine. Depending on which engine <4 easier that 5> and
climate gear, some other rubber and firewall parts might need
to be removed.

__________________
--frankb

1982 300TD 617.912 <NLA> . 1975 2002 E10-EFI . 1976 914c6 . 1983 MG LMIII <NLA>. 1988 Montero / 616<NLA> . 2001 TLS . 2005 Saab 9-5 Wagon

[QUOTE=franklynb;2465365]I have a front bar in the stack of stuff from quartering the 240D.
You're welcome to borrow it. QUOTE]

I appreciate the offer. I'll see what one would cost in my area first as I bet I can get one for what it would cost to ship one here and back.

On a side note;

I think I sent you my new e-mail address. I will touch base via that. The Denso starter adaptation project is ruffed in, but has the precision work remaining.

I appreciate the use of your adaptor plate, it will be a lot easer to fit the starter to the adaptor with it on a bench! Just say the word and it will be on its way back if you need it.

Sorry for the late reply, but I'll take one! Where do I send the check?