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#16
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Quote:
most of us have high mileage 61x's so I guess I should say high mileage 61x's shouldn't increase the OCI... especially if it's turboed! the turbo puts a lot of strain on the motor and pressurizes the charge.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#17
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228k miles and counting
ULSD made an impact on soot production in 2006, the engine runs much cleaner. |
#18
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Quote:
I bet the reason your soot levels are so low is the lack of turbo. the 240 auto sure does turn a high rpm though. how fast do you drive it? do you do a lot of city driving or mostly highway?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#19
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The turbo puts more pressure on, but creates no more soot as the turbo prevents the rich-burn that the NA can suffer from.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#20
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Quote:
once I fix it I'll throw in 8Qts of lubrimolly 5W40 and see what it looks like after 5K analysis... thanks!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#21
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Quote:
How does the turbo prevent the possibility of rich burn?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#22
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Extra air, if the ALDA hasn't been screwed with.
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#23
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Every 10K miles, 36 months - new Mobil 1 & new MB oil filter.
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#24
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Top notch HDEO oils which are C rated can easily handle extra soot so if need be, they can be stretched safely beyond limit to an extent but if changed at the recommended interval, they offer a degree of protection like no other. My turbo OM616 has been on either Delvac MX or Delo 400 since the beginning and the internals are spotless after 125,000 miles of real hard use off road, in extreme summers at 48C temps outdoors. The compression test gives the readings which haven't varied much from a new engine and oil consumption is very minimal.
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99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo 2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo 2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT |
#25
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You do want to do UOA and you do want to stay under soot loading of 2% (though some oils have dispersant packages that allow up to 4%).
I found back in 2003ish, via UOA, that 7k was about when I'd hit 2% in a 617.952 well tuned without any increased boost, turned up ALDA, etc., and mostly smooth highway driving. The car averaged 28-30 MPG consistently. We run 5w-40 in all our diesels. Can't go wrong with it. If nothing else it helps cold startup, and even wen it is warm, the oil will flow around a bit quicker. We can go over 10k without hitting 2% (have to check the UOAs, I think we are actually under 1% at that point) on our 96 E300D.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#26
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When discussing oil and oil changes your going to get different people telling you different things. The best thing for people to do is simply have the oil tested by a place like http://www.oaitesting.com/ or http://www.blackstone-labs.com/.
By testing your oil you can find out what your engine is doing and what condition your engine is in. I’m very loyal to Amsoil products and in my testing I find that I can go 9-10,000 miles with my Amsoil that I use. But I do change out the oil filter every 3,000 miles. I also have a MB that burns wvo so I have to change my oil more often. But I do stand behind the testing of motor oil. The company’s that are provided will also tell you when you need to change your oil, and they will also tell you what metals are found in your oil. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/diesel-engine-sample-report-1.php Good Luck, Michael
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Professional greasecar installer Austin TX 98 Jetta TDI with grease car kit + veg-therm (totaled) 87 MB 300SDL running on B99 / greasecar kit + 30 fphe www.austingreaseguys.com |
#27
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One of the companies I consult with makes a unit for monitoring oil condition. We recommend it for diesel trucks and other large vehicles, boats, etc. I recently had a discussion with a man who ran the service department for a large MB dealership in Newport Beach, CA for 20 years. He said the reason that MB added the oil condition sensor was because customers don't believe how far they can really go between changes - 15K in the newer models using synthetics. One thing they also found was that while the oil can last longer, the filters cannot so be sure to watch them separately.
Oil condition is a function of many things, not the least of which is its starting composition. Different additives can make the oil last longer but not forever. How you drive, where you drive, quality of fuel, filtration, weather, and so many things make it hard to really extrapolate from one engine to another. The other issue about oil change interval is how much damage are you willing to tolerate? Some people like to drive until the oil gets viscous. This is a bad thing and you should have changed long before. As I said before, our units are a continuous monitor and it is very interesting to see the different intervals that "professional" drivers use. So, I am not sure you can ever get one single absolute answer beyond, find what works for you. BTW- Oil testing services are a very good way to learn a lot about what is happening with your engine beyond just knowing when to change the oil. |
#28
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5,000 mile interval on Rotella 15w-40 dino is my formula for both M-B diesels and any of them I'd ever own from about 1980 to 1995. Do whatever the owners manual says to do with dino 15w40 and you'll be fine. It's what was good enough in the year the book was written, it's still good enough if not better now.
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