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  #46  
Old 03-21-2010, 07:08 AM
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The diesel is likely just fine...it lasts a LONG time. I would focus on filter replacement...including the in-tank strainer.

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  #47  
Old 03-21-2010, 10:19 AM
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Check a fuel sample before you change filters. If it's gray in color you've probably got fungus in the tank. Might as well drain the old fuel & clean the strainer before you change the filters. You don't want to contaminate the new ones with the fungus. Also blow out the supply & return lines & disconnect the cigar hose at the return line to let it purge into a container until all the old fuel is out of the system. A dose of Startron should help get things under control after that.
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  #48  
Old 03-21-2010, 09:05 PM
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Check to make sure that the ALDA is adjusted properly. The PO of my 300SD had "messed around with a few screws" to try and do a "tune up" and i had similar symptoms. After i adjusted the ALDA the car was good as new! BE VERY CAREFUL when adjusting the screw if you turn it too far or too hard your ALDA will be toast. I am jealous of your new car!
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  #49  
Old 03-22-2010, 01:53 AM
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in general what is to far in reguards to backing out the ALDA screw? I removed the cap and backed it out about 3/4 of a turn maybe a little less.. I oticed a diffference but feel as though it could use a little more .... would going saw another 1/2 turn be safe?
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  #50  
Old 03-22-2010, 02:38 AM
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be careful, if it stop turning, don't force it, you may ruin your adla and cause your car to run bad. And turn it slowly, turning the screw fast can damage the spring In the adla and cause bad idle.
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  #51  
Old 03-22-2010, 03:05 AM
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FYI:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DankyMerc View Post
so i got the bushing and b2 replaced .. i got k1/k2 springs but the writeup i was going to follow is missing all the pics... can anyone walk me through it or provide a link to a writeup? here is a link to the writeup i wanted to use http://10.176.80.153/mbz.org/articles/transmission/k1/ but no pics
Here is a great K1 DIY
http://w123maintenance.blogspot.com/2008/02/k-1-spring-kit-replacement-and.html


I broke the K1 repair kit!!! What did I do wrong?
I broke the K1 repair kit!!! What did I do wrong?

K1 Spring Kit
K1 Spring Kit

another K1 thread
another K1 thread

Run, don't walk, to the dealer, get a K1 kit!!!
Run, don't walk, to the dealer, get a K1 kit!!!
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  #52  
Old 03-22-2010, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DankyMerc View Post
in general what is to far in reguards to backing out the ALDA screw? I removed the cap and backed it out about 3/4 of a turn maybe a little less.. I oticed a diffference but feel as though it could use a little more .... would going saw another 1/2 turn be safe?
You could back the screw out to its max "out" adjustment..this would be almost like removing the ALDA Which is what a lot of people have done on this forum...this would give you your max "off boost fueling" and make the turbo lag seem less annoying. It would also most likely make your car smoke at an idle depending on your altitude...My car doesn't smoke at idle with ALDA adjusted all the way out except when cold.... like stated before turn very slowly and do not force AT ALL..... If this fixes your problem you could adjust the ALDA in just to the point where it stops smoking or leave it at max "out" adjustment.
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  #53  
Old 03-22-2010, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DankyMerc View Post
..... but I think it needs some more attention.. I mean I step on it and its as if the car pauses to think about moving then starts going ... I mean its has very little down low in the rpms.....
The throttle linkage needs to be adjusted and lubed. Have to make sure there is not slop and when the pedal is pressed all the way down, it should be reach the maximum stop adjuster bolt.


I would do this first before messing with the ALDA screw. Then I would make sure the valves are adjusted properly, timing chain is not too stretched and IP is timed correctly.




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  #54  
Old 03-22-2010, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
The throttle linkage needs to be adjusted and lubed. Have to make sure there is not slop and when the pedal is pressed all the way down, it should be reach the maximum stop adjuster bolt.


I would do this first before messing with the ALDA screw. Then I would make sure the valves are adjusted properly, timing chain is not too stretched and IP is timed correctly.




.
I do Agree with checking all of these items before messing with the ALDA especially if you took the plastic plug off the ALDA that probably means its never been touched. Valve adjust can make a huge difference.
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  #55  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:04 AM
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Valve adjustment sounds like a good idea... I may see what it would cost to get done at my neighborhood merc mechanic ... Or Maybe Ill give it a go .. would be a shame to pay more for a valve adjustment that i have into the whole cost of the car though im a bit weary of the procedure
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  #56  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:10 AM
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oh one other thing I noticed one of the fuel lines that jump between the cylinders is weeping diesel... do I have to replace it with the same type of cloth covered fuel line? or if any will do can someone tell me what is the Inner Diameter of that hose?
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  #57  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:13 AM
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If you can replace the B2/K1 than the valve adj should be a piece of cake! Should be done every 10K . . . if it has been a long time, or is out a ways (tight) then you may want to re-adjust in 500 miles . . .
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  #58  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:15 AM
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?? You just quite successfully did an R&R on a tranny part many wouldnt even consider attempting.

Why would you not want to do your valve adjustment... remember .. its just one valve at a time !
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  #59  
Old 03-22-2010, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DankyMerc View Post
Valve adjustment sounds like a good idea... I may see what it would cost to get done at my neighborhood merc mechanic ... Or Maybe Ill give it a go .. would be a shame to pay more for a valve adjustment that i have into the whole cost of the car though im a bit weary of the procedure
Valve adjustment is a breeze compared to a B2 replacement. It seems intimidating but really its not so bad. Go out and bend up a couple 14mm wrenches (there are DIYs all over the board) and have a go at it. It helps to have a friend/helper hold the feeler gauges while you tighten/loosen. Whole job takes a couple hours the first time, maybe 90 minutes after a couple times. Its also a good time to check your throttle linkages, bowden cable and lube if necessary.
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  #60  
Old 03-22-2010, 12:12 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by DankyMerc View Post
Valve adjustment sounds like a good idea... I may see what it would cost to get done at my neighborhood merc mechanic ... Or Maybe Ill give it a go .. would be a shame to pay more for a valve adjustment that i have into the whole cost of the car though I'm a bit weary of the procedure
This is a relatively easy DIY.

Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

Engine Mechanical:
Engine Mechanical:

Valve adjustment OM617 FYI.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.

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