Ive had a strange lapse a few times lately in my power steering in an 85 300TD wagon. It happend once when I was sort of on an angle slowly turning a sharp corner in an alley where (at least where I live now) like all are filled with snow and dirt water from springtime runoff (terrible for rust) and it just cut out.

I was able to steer but barely. once I revved up again and got back to a flat surface it came back to normal. Its done that again on and off now in the last week and I wonder if it can do with the power steering pump belt. I do hear a belt screetch when I run through a puddle or after a car wash. but its difficult for my amateur eyes to know what the belt should look like if its ready to be replaced.

I checked the fluid and its fine. and I dont see any leaks
Thanks,
Michael

Wet Belts Slip =s Loss of PS Pump Power.

Prime Time to Check All Belts for Cracks and other signs of Age.
Tension matters Too!

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Sounds like a slipping belt to me. If your not sure when they were replaced last it's probably time to change them anyway. Only a few basic tools are needed to change all the belts. To check the tension push on the longest length of belt and it should deflect about a 1/2"

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Great, Im ordering all new belts. And I hope thats the only problem. How do you change the belts? I see I would have to take of the radiator fan, for the alternator belts I Imagine I would loosen the tensioner as much as possible and just slip them off?

But what about the other belts. I dont readily see a tensioner like the laternator. do I just try and pry them on and off?

I had the same thing happen to me. I hit a puddle in a turn and lost power steering. Luckily it came back quick. Tighten the belt.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

So How do you tighten the power steering belt? or replace it?
Thanks,
Michael

There are 3 bolts that hold the pump to it`s mount. one it piviots on, and 2 that move in their slotted holes so the pump can move to tighten or loosen.

On the back side there are 2 in the recess of the mount web. and one towards the front behind the pully. loosen them first. think it is a 13mm. will need a socket and box/open end wrench. the nuts should be visable from the front, on the right and left of the pump.

On the top of the mount is the adjuster bolt. just the head is visable. turn it to loosen or tighten.

When you get the belt adjusted, tighten the 3 mounting bolts.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

No, don't try to remove them before you understand how to do so. The pdf file is too large to post, PM me if interested.

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83 SD

84 CD

It would be a good time to replace the PS filter as well, and make sure the PS fluid level is good.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I have had a lot better of experiences with cogged belts rather than smooth ones, especially when it comes to getting rid of water. It's just like tread on a tire, a smooth belt will hydroplane on the pulley while the cogged one just passes the water through.

I would also check the condition of the rest of the belts. I think the P/S belt is the most forward one (or 2nd in line). If the compressor belt is bad, might as well replace that and the P/S belt too (to get better clearance).

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