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  #1  
Old 03-13-2010, 10:41 PM
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Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas
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Researching

Happily, just found this forum. I am in the market for a new used car. I am considering getting a MB but have found mixed opinions about them; there are them what loves um and them what hates um.
I've googled "repair rates/frequency" and cannot find any definitive answers, or no middle ground. Maybe there aren't any definitive answers or middle ground.
I am not a mechanic, but luckily I live in Fayetteville AR, home of Shuler's, but I don't have unlimited funds either.
I am thinking about MB because they are safe. I grew up in Volvos. Mostly I drive around town, but once in awhile we take a long trip, like 1200 miles one way, so I want something reliable. I would like decent gas milage, but I know I can't have great milage and a heavy, safe machine.
I like the look of the 1984 300D, in gerneral I like the style of the older models than the newer ones. I understand the older models will require routine valve adjustments, but newer years (starting when) do not. So that is one maintance area I could potentially save on.
I really am at a loss as to whether a MB would be the car for me.
Any help you all can give me on reliability/repair rates etc. is appreciated.

  #2  
Old 03-13-2010, 10:53 PM
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You state you are not a mechanic.
do you have any tools?
do you have any diagnostic skills, and do you mind getting DIRTY *diesel oil is very dirty!
if you say yes to the above. an MB is for you.
they are extremely easy to work on. even the older models that require valve adjustments.
it's not a difficult job, but you will need some tools to do it.
www.dieselgiant.com has great pictorials *(and some pitching of goods for sale)* great place to start looking at what needs to be done.
our site also has a great DIY pictorial site.
Welcome to the forum!
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
  #3  
Old 03-13-2010, 10:58 PM
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the 300D has great looks, but it's a little small for my tastes.
the 300SD is larger, but does not have the same style... unless you go PRE 81. they look very similar to the 300D, and have the turbo motor. you will get approx 26-28MPG in them. however, it's difficult to find one without rust... so be very vigilant in your search.
tell us more about what you are looking for. and what you are willing to do.
if you want a great reliable vehicle, look in our for sale section. the members are the most honest in both descriptions. (not true on ebay... duh.)
ask all the questions you want, we'll happily answer them all.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
  #4  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:09 PM
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Location: Vulcan, AB, Canada
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In '86, mercedes started making the 6 cylinder diesel that doesn't require valve adjustments every 30k. Although that engine designated as the 603.9xx is all aluminum, and has reports of head cracking problems, it's a great little engine.
With every car, there are pros and cons. There is no perfect car... You'd have to research, and find a car with the pros you want, and the con's you can live with. If you're looking for a smaller car, the 87-94 diesels are quite good, and as I hear it, quite reliable...
People on these forums are very very good about helping newbies and mechanically uninclined fix their cars... You are in good company here...
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'95 S320 LWB
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:12 PM
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Welcome to the forum...

You cannot go wrong with an early to mid 80's 300D or SD unless it was not taken care of. Unfortunately, there are a lot of them that were not taken care of.

Look for a car that has records of service history and proof of maintenance and you will thank yourself later. Especially since you are NOT a mechanic. Paying a little more for a car with records could be well worth it in the long run IMO...

The 300SD is a great all around car and much better on the highway than the 300D. If you plan to do a lot of traveling, look for an SD or even an SDL. For off roading and inner city driving... The 300D is pretty tough and easy to whip around.
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1985 300D (SOLD)

  #6  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:12 PM
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Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas
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Not a mechanic

Thanks for your response to my questions. I have a few tools, metric from my husband's 74 Dasher years. I haven't done much mechanically. My dad taught us how to hot wire the 1960's Volvo (in case we ever needed to), repaired my bicycle, can change a tire on a car. But I am educable. Though, I am not sure I want to spend my time repairing a vehicle, I probably wouldn't mind doing/learning the maintenance stuff. I don't care one wit about getting dirty. I just don't want to get into something that is going to need a rear axle replaced, pay $500 for a battery or a headlight, or that sort of thing.
  #7  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:17 PM
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Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas
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you said

"the 300D has great looks, but it's a little small for my tastes.
the 300SD is larger, but does not have the same style..."

I am used to driving smaller cars, currently driving a Hyunadi elantra and am feeling vulnerable, not to mention, I have to unfold myself to get out (bad on the old knees), another reason I like a bit bigger car. I like something a bit higher off the ground. At 5'9" I am not a great big gal.
  #8  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:21 PM
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these cars do have a big battery, but even from the dealer, it's less than 150.00 and wally world stocks the correct battery for this car for 77.00 so no biggie there. before buying the car you like, look at the rear axle. these cars have rear wheel drive, independent suspension. so the axle is visible and easily spotted damage.
it sounds like a car well maintained in the 3-6K range would be a good fit for you. I have started working on the early 90's 300D's and they are simply amazing to drive. (I bought my first one as a parts car for 260.00... ) I AM a mechanic, and I am quite crazy... so the bias is there for me. but I have about 12 different brand vehicles. so go search the ads and post the candidates here, and we can help you critique them.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
  #9  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:27 PM
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Probably the best thing for you to do if you wish to take the mercedes route is to buy a car from a forum member with a good standing and a lot of posts here... You can usually go back into that member's posts, and find out what kinds of jobs he did on that car, etc.
So, might not hurt to go to the cars section of the for sale portion, and poke around.
The 92-93(?) 300D had an all aluminum 5 cyl 2.5 L diesel that seems to be very reliable. I haven't seen too many posts with engine problems... It doesn't need valve adjustments. If the previous owner kept up with suspension maintenance, you should be good for at least 75,000 miles. Stuff however can develop problems unseen, and just break. But, if you get 75K mostly trouble free miles, you will be further ahead of most people who buy new vehicles, and for a lot less money...
Good luck in your search...
__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic
  #10  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fayetteville, Arkansas
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O.K.

Thanks so much. Because I am not in a great hurry, I will be able to really take my time and look around. I'll probably look from here toward the west as I have a niggling feeling that cars in the east tend to have potential for rust.
Thanks again. I will take you up on your offer of help as I find candidates.
  #11  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:31 PM
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Florida cars are usually rust free...As most form the deep south east seem to be..
__________________
All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing.

Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor

'95 S320 LWB
'87 300SDL
'04 E500 wagon 4matic
  #12  
Old 03-13-2010, 11:45 PM
vstech's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joleslie View Post
"the 300D has great looks, but it's a little small for my tastes.
the 300SD is larger, but does not have the same style..."

I am used to driving smaller cars, currently driving a Hyunadi elantra and am feeling vulnerable, not to mention, I have to unfold myself to get out (bad on the old knees), another reason I like a bit bigger car. I like something a bit higher off the ground. At 5'9" I am not a great big gal.
the 300D is certainly a larger car than anything the import teeney car producers spew on us!
it's just a little tight between the seats for me. not much room for stuff between the driver and the passenger seat. most of the teeney cars are in the 2800lb range... the 300D is 3200lbs, (most of that is in the engine!!!) import cars usually have a 4 quart oil pan in the motor, MB's all have 8Quarts! they all have large oil coolers built in, and the oil filter is up top easy to get to! no spin offs for us! two nuts and the lid opens, let it drain, and the filter element comes out. diesel's have no spark plugs that need to be maintained, no spark plug wires, no distributer cap or rotor button. they do need starting aids, called glow plugs, and it can be troublesome when they fail, but it's easily determined what's wrong, and the light on the dash will fail to glow if more than two are out. so easy!
a diesel vehicle is more prone to fuel related problems, but that's why the filters are up front with the motor. and you will feel a power loss when they plug up from bad fuel, or water... simple to change.
another issue many have with the older diesel vehicles is the noise the motors make.
the pre 86 Diesels have a loud klatta klatta sound that compared to a japanese/korean import vehicle gas motor sounds like the car has a bad rod or something. so if you want a quiet motor, be prepared for the noise of a diesel.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
  #13  
Old 03-14-2010, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amosfella View Post
Probably the best thing for you to do if you wish to take the mercedes route is to buy a car from a forum member with a good standing and a lot of posts here... You can usually go back into that member's posts, and find out what kinds of jobs he did on that car, etc.
So, might not hurt to go to the cars section of the for sale portion, and poke around.
The 92-93(?) 300D had an all aluminum 5 cyl 2.5 L diesel that seems to be very reliable. I haven't seen too many posts with engine problems... It doesn't need valve adjustments. If the previous owner kept up with suspension maintenance, you should be good for at least 75,000 miles. Stuff however can develop problems unseen, and just break. But, if you get 75K mostly trouble free miles, you will be further ahead of most people who buy new vehicles, and for a lot less money...
Good luck in your search...
I am a big fan of my 82 240. It's a stick, gets over 30mpg, and has treated me well so far. Literally the only stuff on my car that goes out is the rubber stuff (rubber degrades with time).

I personally wouldn't make valve adjustment/no valve adjustment a make it or break it factor in a purchasing decision. Of importance is chance of rust and how well the car has been taken care of, which goes to a member's previous post...

good idea to buy from a fellow Forum Member. Better seller reputability... We're dedicated to these cars
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:02 AM
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I agree with buying one from a forum member. Usually we find the better cars and only see them when we want ANOTHER one
One thing to be aware of, Diesel Mercedes are as addicting as crack! Once you have one you get hooked!

Here are some suggestions,
I tend to want the bigger W126 (S Class) cars from the 1980's as they are very comfortable and are a bit more sophisticated then the W123 model (240D 300D - up to 1985) I have had a 300SD and now have a 300SDL. The SDL is a bit bigger, but has the 6 cylinder engine, ABS, and an air bag. It is also quieter, more powerful AND gets better mileage! I got mine from South Carolina and it has not a speck of rust.
The engine in the SDL and the 1987 300D is not all aluminum, but is an iron block with an aluminum head. this can be troublesome if the car overheats (read about cracked heads) but mine has over 336,000 miles on the original head so it is not a given that they will go bad.

What I would do is join the Mercedes Benz Club of America (MBCA.ORG) and go to your local meetings. you will find friendly people who can help you in your search and help you learn about the cars you are interested in.

Once you have narrowed down what you want, ask tons of questions here and use the search tools to read as many threads as possible.

Use these checklists when going to look at a car.
81 300 SD buyer Checklist

http://www.mbcoupes.com/buyersguide/buyersguide.htm

Most of all get the car with the best history on paper. Lots of receipts and invoices for work done at the proper times show a caring owner and usually mean a decent automobile.


Good luck and keep us posted
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:43 PM
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I'm in TN & have seen more rust free cars than rusty. Compared to 70s era Datsun Zs which I also play with, almost all (at least most) MBZs should be repaired. Many are ragged out in other ways besides rust but good cars turn for under 3k. One locally sold for $1800 with a reman transmission. Paint wasn't new but was sufficient. It needed some interior work & the AC fixed. Still, it wouldn't be a car for my wife because it will need more than sew(er) car maintenance and she wants to get in & turn the key with no other concern.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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