84 300TD Coolant Leak - Water Pump? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 03-17-2010, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

I'll add to inspect the front crank seal, if there is oil leaking from it, replace it while you have everything else off.

if you do that
BE SURE TO PUT THE BALANCER ON CORRECTLY!!!

TnBob · #17 03-17-2010, 02:30 PM

The comment about minding the bolt torque should have been in bold !

The housing is aluminum and can crack much easier than a steel part.
I picked up a used one verrrrry cheep on ebay just in case. My MB's last
20/30K were not the best maintained. Prior to that the records are thick.

b2948kevin · #18 03-17-2010, 03:45 PM

Thanks for the helpful advice. I pulled out the torque wrench to ensure this is done right.

I am having trouble getting the water pump off right now. I have the 5 10mm bolts from the front off ( I double checked on the new one and there are only 5 bolts), and coolant has been leaking around the edges, but it won't come off. Any thoughts? I even smacked it a little with a hammer, although not too hard.

MBZ123 · #19 03-17-2010, 04:11 PM

A 2' length of 2X4 worked for me at a downward 45 degree vector. Just add umph!

FNHB

b2948kevin · #20 03-17-2010, 05:03 PM

LOL! So, I finally got the nads and smacked it a bunch with a hammer and it came right off. Not sure I recommend this given that the housing is aluminum, but it worked for me. They just get really stuck on there, apparently.

I then put the new one on with a light coating of RTV that I applied a half hour before and bolted it on. I still haven't torqued it, but I will. Still need to replace the thermostat and put everything back on.

Check out the pics. Looks just like new! Haha!

Renntag · #21 03-17-2010, 05:53 PM

Last year I had a coolant leak in my 83 wagon. It turned out NOT to be the pump but instead a leak between the block and the pump housing. I removed the assembly and installed a new gasket and it was fixed.

While I was "in there" I did new belts, replaced the shorty vertical bypass hose, and installed a new "vent line" (see pic attached for parts explanation). Be sure to use anti seize or some form of grease to aid in the easy removal of these parts the next time around (assuming you are keeping it for another 100K).

When removing the vent line to check it, be careful not to lose the crush washers. There are 2 on each banjo/bolt assembly. One on each side of the banjo. You can clean and reuse. They are cheap if you just wish to replace them. Its best to clean the area where you are working to reduce a leak due to dirt/contamination.

While you are this far into it, it's best to check these items. The bypass hose is easy to replace now.

To be sure to make the sealing areas clean, take a fresh razor blade, hold it firmly, perpendicular to the surface and scrape side to side until the surface is smooth and clean. This removes old gasket material and not the housing (particularly of concern with aluminum, less so with iron).

For future repairs it is also beneficial to have a small jar of aviation sealant on hand. This is usually in a little white tub, maybe 4 ounces, with a brush built into the cap.
This stuff will seal problem hoses, make old gaskets seal again, replace gaskets entirely in some applications. Just great stuff to have around especially for emergency repairs and problem leaks.

Best of luck.

MBZ123 · #22 03-17-2010, 06:06 PM

From the looks of those pics, you might benefit from a flush. Lot's of scale and other buildup in there. How's your temps. Also, the local consensus on coolant is anti-green stuff. Not looking to start a war, just remarking. I use Zerex G-05? May help in the long run with other components.

FNHB

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