Rebooted OE pulled, axles. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

barry123400 · #16 03-17-2010, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustedbenz

I just replied on your other thread but I'm not sure which one you're using as a master list, etc. I'd need to hear a price first but I'm potentially in need of a pair for the 240D. One of them actually started clunking on me last weekend on the way to school. Just had it at a local shop today and they couldn't find anything wrong; the test drive was quiet. I know what I heard though, so I figure I'm bound to be in trouble before long. Sounds like somebody hammering under the back end. Intermittently of course, only after several miles at road speed.

Since the noise is not constant the cv joints or one of them just might lack lubrication. So easy to do and you will know quickly if it was the problem. First check the integrity of the existing boots. The lubrication does have to be contaiined after all.

Once the noise becomes constant in nature it is too late. Add lubricant now. You have nothing to lose. If they then stay quiet and you have the time. Switching the axles from one side to the other may still buy you many years of reliable service. You may get that anyways with just relubrication. Just a lot more with the cross switching. Your description of the problem is typical of the lack of lubrication in cv joints.

Brian Carlton · #17 03-17-2010, 10:00 PM

I'm firmly convinced that OE rebooted axles are the best way to go if the original boot has not been compromised prior to the reboot.

The recent results from CVJ are clearly no assurance to a good product. In fact, we really don't have any idea what they do to "rebuild" an axle.

Personally, I'd like to see oil utilized on the reboot...........I'm not a fan of the usual choice of grease due to the inability to fully pack the boot and the resulting unbalance caused by centrifugal force.

vstech · #18 03-17-2010, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I'm firmly convinced that OE rebooted axles are the best way to go if the original boot has not been compromised prior to the reboot.

The recent results from CVJ are clearly no assurance to a good product. In fact, we really don't have any idea what they do to "rebuild" an axle.

Personally, I'd like to see oil utilized on the reboot...........I'm not a fan of the usual choice of grease due to the inability to fully pack the boot and the resulting unbalance caused by centrifugal force.

at the risk of turning this into an oil thread...
what do you recommend be put into the boot? i am all for doing it RIGHT!

Brian Carlton · #19 03-17-2010, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

at the risk of turning this into an oil thread...
what do you recommend be put into the boot? i am all for doing it RIGHT!

I'm not sure that it's absolutely critical..........any gear oil should do a fine job. the fact that the rotating components are always in contact with oil gives me comfort. There are no high temperature issues or degradation to worry about.

IIRC, there was a specific oil that was preferred........but cannot recall the specifics of it.

vstech · #20 03-17-2010, 10:18 PM

oh, OK, I have TONS of Mobil1 75W140, I'll use that.

compress ignite · #21 03-18-2010, 03:41 AM

Ask Kestas

JHZR2 · #22 03-18-2010, 05:22 PM

Kestas is on here?!? Ill bet he recommends some sort of dow molykote lube, seems that this is his favorite stuff and highly recommended in its various forms. I bought a tube of '33 on his recommendation, and it is great stuff. Hope he does chime in.

BHutch · #23 03-18-2010, 06:03 PM

What are "the recent results from CVJ". Did I miss something? I was under the impression they did good work.

JHZR2 · #24 03-18-2010, 06:46 PM

+1

Kestas · #25 03-19-2010, 02:36 PM

JHZR2 dragged me here from the bobistehoilguy web site.

What I've heard of CV joint grease is that it needs to contain lots of antiwear additives. The CV joint experiences sliding motion, micromotion, and fretting, and needs a lube that protects under these conditions. It also needs to be resistant to heat for inner CV joints for FWD cars, where they operate close to a heat source.

The application is also sensitive to viscosity. It needs to maintain a fine balance. Too high a viscosity and it won't creep into the surfaces that it needs to lubricate... too low a viscosity and it'll run out. The lube needs to be shear stable because it can get sheared down rather quickly in application.

I don't have a specific grease in mind. I just know enough to use a CV joint-specific grease.

okyoureabeast · #26 03-19-2010, 03:31 PM

I just replaced the rear axles in my car with CVJ rebuilds. I crawled under the vehicle two days ago for my pre-trip look over and everything looked fine.

Have there been any evidence of issues with CVJ axles? I was under the impression I have a warranty as per this forum.

@Brian, CVJ's website has a little list of things they apparently do to rebuild the axles.

Quote:

Replace the crimped sheet metal boot cans on Weiss joints with new hydraulically sealed cans
All other joints are sealed with RTV or the sheet metal is pressed onto new o-rings as appropriate
Straighten bars to a standard twice as accurate as the industry

I have no idea what most of that means though.

vstech · #27 09-22-2010, 10:44 PM

I have the gun and am cleaning my parts washer and prepping the axles for boots.

#28 09-22-2010, 10:56 PM

I've had no problems with CVJ half shafts. I installed a pair a few years and about 200k miles ago and they have run fine. However, I did notice one of them had a torn boot about 6 months ago (shortly after running over something and getting a flat tire). It wasn't making any noise, but I replaced it with another CVJ unit just to be safe. No issues since then.

Brad123D · #29 09-23-2010, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I have the gun and am cleaning my parts washer and prepping the axles for boots.

Seems like an excellent way to clean the joints if they are dried and lubed immediately. But I think vs' already knows that. Also, anyone rebooting without disassembly needs to remember to bump/slide the axle into the joint on both ends and listen for metal to metal contact because there is a nylon type bumper in there that can be bad. If that's bad, I would not try using. The original axles are top quality and if they were always redone before the boots break they would last a long, long time.

vstech · #30 09-24-2010, 11:53 AM

I installed a large fuel filter in my parts washer to be certain no grit finds it's way into the joints while I am cleaning them! I've got 8 sets ready to sell, or individuals if you only want or need a single axle... (I DO NOT RECOMMEND changing only one side!!!!)
I have complete differentials, and entire cars to clear out also, lemme know if anybody wants 123/126 stuff!

View Poll Results: OE axles rebooted with flex interest?
I MUST have OE rebooted axles!!!	14	73.68%
I have NO interest in OE rebooted axles	1	5.26%
Reman axles are fine as long as they are a good company	4	21.05%
I'm trying the chinease ones... 75.00 can't be wrong!!	0	0%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll