After reading many entries on this site (thanks to all) I am not sure if taking the alternator bracket off the engine is better than taking the alternator out of the bracket. Some even manage to rebuild the electrics on the alternator without taking it out at all. I don't see how I can get to the voltage regulator with the alternator still in the car.

Can some one who has done it give me some advice.

Are there 4 bolts (17mm) attached bracket to engine?
Are they accessible? Better from above or below?
Does the harmonic balancer come into play for these bolts? Or is that for the alternator to bracket bolts.

Several years ago I partly stripped a similar car and remember it being very difficult to deal with the long bolt that the alternator pivots on. Will removing the alternator bracket make that part easier?

Thanks for any help.

You can replace the regulator with the alternator in the car. But, if the car has a lot of miles... It would be good idea to remove it and do an inspection of the bracket, bolts, bearings, belts, wiring, etc....

To remove the alternator from the car: disconnect the battery, "Remove 2 bolts", loosen 1 bolt (on the bracket) and unplug the harness. Basically, you only "remove" 2 bolts to take the alternator out of the car.

FYI... There are 2 brackets. One is attached to the block and the other is attached to the alternator.

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AJ

1985 300D (SOLD)

You normally would not want to take the bracket off the engine unless you found it was broken or excessively worn.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The issue I had with my no-longer-around 82 was that bolt with arrows to it came in from the back, you see a nut there, so this one (my SD) won't have that problem. There was not enough room to completely pull that bolt out, so I had to remove the "other" bracket to finally get the alt out so I could replace it.
The second pic shows the alt from under the car sitting on the wheels. Remove the two screws, pull out the voltage regulator, install the new one.

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83 SD

84 CD

When I swapped in the larger 115amp AL-129-X alternator, It is a little cramped trying to get the larger one placed from under the car, and tight trying to come in from above and get the adjuster bracket on.

I found if I mounted the adjuster bracket to the alt. then could use the bracket as a handle, and lowered it in from the top. then install the top rear bolt, the the pivot bolt on the bottom.

so remove the pivot bolt, then the top rear bolt for the adjuster bracket and lift out.
The bottom Pivot bolt can be a pain to get out if it is rusted and corroded. be sure to slather the whole shaft good with some anti seiz compound before installing it.

The engine mount bracket has 4 17mm nuts holding it to the engine block, and I think one coming in from the front. there is a cut out in the ballancer that when lined up, can be accessed. X2, you don`t have to remove this mount when removing the alternator.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works