Compression test today, #1-350, #2-300, #3-20, #4-325. Broken rings on #3? What else could it be?

Rings or valves. Pull the injector and put some mmo in it. Let it soak for a few days, crank it over to displace the extra oil and recheck the compression. If it's a stuck ring the marvel mystery oil will help free it. If that doesn't help the a leak down test is needed.

With compression that low I would think a stuck valve.

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85 300CD Gramps 390K
89 190D Baby 322K
93 300D Grumpy 176K
99 SLK230

How does a valve get stuck?

Has it been run on WVO ?
Valves can get build up on the shaft that stops them going all the way up.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I think the po just ran diesel fuel. Im going to take head off and see what I have.

How about a head gasket issue?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hi
Might be worthwhile to remove the valve cover and observe the #3 valve action & adjustment - before pulling the head.

A recent thread had 0 compression in cyl. #1 which was just too tight valve.- wouldn't close. Maybe a rounded cam lobe that wont open a valve?
Joseph

Headgasket will cause bad compression like that? Also what do I need to buy to get those head bolts out? What size are they?

That's so low it probabaly is a valve hung open or a hole in the piston. I agree exploring the valve train before removing the head. Its a lot of work to remove the head!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Given the other cylinders have respectable compression, I would first have a look at the valve/cam operation.

It is surprising that it doesnt start on 3 cylinders. I would try & start it once I checked under the cam cover. Just make sure you have a little gap on both valves for #3 & they come up as far as the other ones.

If it has a bad inlet valve you should be able to see & hear it blowing back through the inlet manifold when you have the air cleaner off.

If its rings/piston, you should see the problem as blowby.

If its a blown head gasket it should bubble in the radiator.

How does the oil & water look?

If its a piston/rings, it may need the motor to be removed.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Here is the test.....

take the injector off and pour a teaspoon or so of regular oil (or MMO or whatever) into the combustion chamber. Then do a compression test, if the numbers improve then you have bad rings.

if the numbers do not improve, you have a bad valve.

bad valve= a burnt valve that remains open during compression. this is caused by lack of maintenance specifically ignoring valve adjustments.

ignoring valve adjustments= as seasons change and the temperature changes, this somehow tightens the adjustment screws. it got to the point were the valve would stay open during combustion. the heat from the combustion weakened the stem of the valve. at this point the valve is toast.

report back when you do this.

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Ben
1987 190d 2.5Turbo

Hydraulic lifters in the 601 = no adjustment.

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327K on 1986 W201, 602.911, 722.414 2.5 190D ("The Red Baron")
139K on 1993 W124, 104.942, 722.433 2.8 300E ("Queen")

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/...0bb92d3c_m.jpg http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1325284354

Do not worry about your difficulties in Mathematics. I can assure you mine are still greater.
- Albert Einstein

take a walk down memory lane...

Well started to remove the head today and got alot done, just cant get the fan off. The manual says to take out center bolt and remove fan, well I took the bolt off and the fan will not come off. What am I missing? Ill put some pictures up later.

Attached Thumbnails

   

you have the magnetic fan clutch.


once the bolt is out, begin wiggling or give it a light blow (using your judgment)

there may be some corrosion prohibiting the release

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as a second measure, feel into the recess of the fan (around the center bolt) for any other bolts.

I am recalling a similar difficulty, but it was too long ago.

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