Drove it home, though. Picked up a fender and two doors from the junkyard today.

When I slide-hammer the dent out of the quarter panel I'll need some type of body filler to bridge the holes. I hear a lot of smack talk about Bondo and its tendency to absorb water. Any body filler out there that does a better job on that front?

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k

Let me be the first to say that you're lucky you were driving a Mercedes.

Hope you got the number of that "metal chomping" truck. Yikes!

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too many w123's
84 280 SL 5 speed

Kevin: Right you are. But my landlord (also a Mercedes nut; bought a 190SL new back in 1960) and the previous owner have already told me this, many times. Can't wait to get it back on the road.

Dadette: I did, and he got my number too. It was totally my fault. I didn't see him coming on my left, and I was moving into the left lane.

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k

You might try contacting a professional automotive paint supply and talk to them about the different products they sell.

Bondo is ok as long as you seal the holes first. You can braze them shut, or use some waterproof product like fiberglass, but I prefer brazing. You could also lead them if they were small enough.

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'83 300D (220000 miles and counting)

Ah, leading holes. Now, that's a lost art.

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too many w123's
84 280 SL 5 speed

Glad to hear you are OK.must have been the lug nuts that opened up the side like a can opener.
Must have made one heck of a racket grinding down the side.

Instead of drilling holes and using one of those slide hammers that screw in. there are the studs that weld on, and a slide hammer that grips them. then when finished, cut off the studs and grind smooth.

I think Harbor Freight sells one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3223

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Shouldn't that buff right out?

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08 R320 CDI current

Past
95 E420
87 300D Turbo 5spd
90 300TE
83 300SD
85 300TD
92 400E
85 190D

No charge for the rubberized topcoating? I never considered tires as good paint removers before either.

Short and long hair fibreglass auto body fillers are waterproof. I precoat the area I am working on if there is a chance water can get to the backside. Then just a very thin topcoat with normal bondo as it finishes up easier.

Actually I like to use the short hair fibreglass bondo first on any repair as I think it might be more stable. I finish it very close to where I want to be and then a very thin coat of normal hydroscopic body filler. Always a two part primer as it is waterproof. Sand that out and topcoat.

You were lucky the damage appears localised mostley. No major structural deformation on first appearances.

No it is a tad too deep. The car is ideal to put up on ebay though. Photograph the good side and casually mention the otherside has a minor scratch. Gets 40 miles per gallon and is good for a million miles. Seems to work as they get bidders and sales with the car not checked out by anyone.

Back in 1990 I had an '86 IROC... windy day on the highway and a semi was passing me. Next thing I knew my back and driver's side windows blew out and I was looking at a whole lotta rubber. Wind blew the trailer enough into my lane that the back wheels of the trailer rode right up the rear bumper and along the edge of the car, then came down again by the middle of the door. That'll wake you up in the morning!! Somehow the car managed to still drive/limp away.

Good luck with the repair! I'd use the stud puller from HF as well.

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wouldn't a torch and a dolly hammer with an extension be better for fixing the doors? remove the inner liner, and roll up or remove the windows. then support the outer skins with anvil on the edges, and work your way out the dent. I'd think it easier to push out than pull.
pulling is for sealed areas...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

He mentioned in the first post that he has two replacement doors and a fender.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I've gotten a pretty nice set of doors and a fender off an Anthracite Gray 240D from a local junkyard (cheap, and they've got less rust than the old ones!). Hope to have them repainted by next week. Probably some folks here would be adventurous enough to rehab the doors, but that's far out of my league and price range. My body filler query comes from my intention to work on the dents in the quarter panel above the rear wheel; the body is dented in at a spot where there's no access from behind. Thanks everyone for the support and the suggestions on how to work dents. Body work is by far the thing I'm least confident on, but this seems like an invitation to get my hands dirty with it.

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'Betsy the Getaway Car' : 1978 MB 240D, 582k
'The Mistress of the Sea' : 2001 Giant Boulder, 10.30k