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  #1  
Old 03-30-2010, 04:18 AM
nonprod
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: bourgeoisville, ca.
Posts: 3
Question 300D 4-matic shifting expectations

Relatively new to my w123 - '84 300D and I was wondering from those with vast experience:

• Where should the 4-matic be shifting (mph, rpm)?
• Is the II to III shift point adjustable? Seems like mine shifts kinda early, unless you're really hitting the gas.
• Is it really supposed to take such a serious lead foot to get the 4-matic to kickdown from IV to III or III to II? Maybe I've never seen it (felt it) go from III to II (unless in braking), now that I think about it.
• Why didn't they make provision to manually get down to II? (quarter-serious rhetorical question)

I guess my simpler question is: How do I know my 4-matic is working as designed? Any thoughts? Please share your experience!

thanks

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  #2  
Old 03-30-2010, 05:22 AM
aaa aaa is offline
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4-matic is the awd system on later cars.

Your engine also needs to be performing properly for the transmission to shift right.
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2010, 02:26 PM
nonprod
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: bourgeoisville, ca.
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yeah - I realize I was using the term 4-matic loosely. I also realize that the engine needs to run properly for the transmission to operate properly. I was looking for some more subtle analysis. But thanks Einstein!
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2010, 04:14 PM
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You attract more bees with honey, ...

Regardless, the shift points will be early (and downshifts late) if the "bowden cable" / downshift cable is too loose, look into adjusting it, mates with the throttle cable at the linkage.

You downshift into II by selecting the 2 on the shifter. At a stop, that will be 1 and holds it until you select 3 where it will be allowed to shift throught 2 into 3. A little odd, I know.
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Old 03-31-2010, 05:23 PM
nonprod
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: bourgeoisville, ca.
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Regardless, the shift points will be early (and downshifts late) if the "bowden cable" / downshift cable is too loose, look into adjusting it, mates with the throttle cable at the linkage.

This makes sense - thanks - I'll look into this.

You downshift into II by selecting the 2 on the shifter. At a stop, that will be 1 and holds it until you select 3 where it will be allowed to shift throught 2 into 3. A little odd, I know.


OK, so by II you mean "S" (slope)? It seems that slope will force the transmission into 3rd from 4th, but am I missing something? We've got "L" for 1st gear, "S" (slope) for 2nd and 3rd (4th lockout) and "D" for 1st thru 4th. So I'm not understanding how one gets manually into 2nd; there's no "2 on the shifter", except perhaps by kickdown.

What I would think might happen would be a kickdown to 3rd from 4th and from 3rd to 2nd when one significantly hits the pedal, and of course shifts from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th somewhat "early" if one is essentially coasting, laying off the gas. Is this not the theory?

I was poking around in a Haynes and it's referring to a kickdown switch, and makes it sound like it's activated near full throttle, so I can see that I may have never hit it, not being in the habit of flooring my cars. This is what I mean by "is a leadfoot required...".

Sorry to be so verbose - just trying to explain my confusion(s).

thanks for your input(s).
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2010, 05:43 PM
A work in process...
 
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I believe there is a kickdown switch on the floorboard. If you floor it, it should hit the switch forcing a downshift. The switch needs to be properly adjusted. The bowden cable, the banjo bolt on the manifold which helps the ALDA, and the general throttle linkage should be checked and adjusted for optimum operation.
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  #7  
Old 03-31-2010, 09:31 PM
aaa aaa is offline
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L is first and second, it runs through 1st to "redline" from a stop, then runs thru second. Switch to it in 3rd and it goes to 2nd.

Should be easy to do a 4-to-3 kickdown switch, at 50 or something with light pedal, then floor it and see if it downshifts. Not sure if it has 3-to-2 as I haven't tried.
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  #8  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:42 PM
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Ahh sorry, I sold my 4matic ~'95 so I didn't remember the L on the shifter prndl.

It's the same as the 2 on other models, works as I described. Will act as a 2nd-gear hold unless you're stopped, in which case it selects 1st. Nice for launching, cancels the 2nd-gear-start when you slide to L and back to D while stopped, ... you start in 1st.

The kickdown switch is on the floor beneath the loud-pedal. It takes a significant amount of extra pressure to activate, you'll feel it pop down.

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