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  #16  
Old 04-07-2010, 06:43 PM
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The hoses look good pawoSD !!!

Did you use JIC fittings ?? Silver solder on the Males on the hard line or welded them ?

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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soothappens View Post
The hoses look good pawoSD !!!

Did you use JIC fittings ?? Silver solder on the Males on the hard line or welded them ?
We had a shop braze the fittings onto the ends of the original pipes, then had them make matching hoses. They are HUGE and extremely durable.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2010, 07:27 PM
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I ended up getting a hose made at the hydraulic line shop and looped it at the filter housing. I was going to just plug the fittings at the filter but just the fittings to do that were $60!! and the loop hose was $50. For anyone who is unfortunate enough to have to do this job I would recommend using anti-seize on the fittings at the cooler. I now know why they are such a mother to get off due to the aluminum to steel connection at the cooler. I sure did want to plug the fittings so I could definitely answer the question of whether or not it would kill the engine, but at least now I have a loop hose I can use on my vast fleet of 616 and 617 engines in an emergency! PawoSD- did you adapt to 3/4 at the filter housing side as well? If you made some more of those adapters I bet you could sell a bunch of them.
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2010, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
I ended up getting a hose made at the hydraulic line shop and looped it at the filter housing. I was going to just plug the fittings at the filter but just the fittings to do that were $60!! and the loop hose was $50. For anyone who is unfortunate enough to have to do this job I would recommend using anti-seize on the fittings at the cooler. I now know why they are such a mother to get off due to the aluminum to steel connection at the cooler. I sure did want to plug the fittings so I could definitely answer the question of whether or not it would kill the engine, but at least now I have a loop hose I can use on my vast fleet of 616 and 617 engines in an emergency! PawoSD- did you adapt to 3/4 at the filter housing side as well? If you made some more of those adapters I bet you could sell a bunch of them.
No they are connected to the original pipes, which then lead back to the oil filter housing:



Attached Thumbnails
Oil cooler line thread size-aaa100_2585.jpg   Oil cooler line thread size-aaa100_2587.jpg  
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Last edited by whunter; 04-14-2010 at 04:29 PM. Reason: attached pictures
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2010, 01:10 AM
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I get it now. Makes much more sense that way. Nice job!!! Are metric fittings that elusive(and expensive) or is it just a local thing?
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  #21  
Old 04-08-2010, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
I get it now. Makes much more sense that way. Nice job!!! Are metric fittings that elusive(and expensive) or is it just a local thing?
We had our local ThermoKing shop do it for us. They have a huge hydraulics shop there.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #22  
Old 04-08-2010, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
I get it now. Makes much more sense that way. Nice job!!! Are metric fittings that elusive(and expensive) or is it just a local thing?
X2 hoses look good !! Factory look but with the ease of replacement.

Metric fitting seem to cost more but 50.00 for a jumper seems to be higher than I would expect. 50.00 should have gotten you a 6' hose with two fittings. Parker opened a bunch of hose stores in the past ten years they usually have a pretty good selection and decent prices. I think these are German D.I.N. there was a post with the fittings and PN#'s but I couldnt find it.

On plugging them off it seems as if you would need to remove the thermo valve. The picture D911 provided shows that when the valve is opened to the cooler it closes to the filter . The factory probably eliminates it on engines without a cooler. I have a junk one and will tear it apart and find out for sure. I can also get a plug to fit it and post PN#'s .
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #23  
Old 04-08-2010, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soothappens View Post
X2 hoses look good !! Factory look but with the ease of replacement.

Metric fitting seem to cost more but 50.00 for a jumper seems to be higher than I would expect. 50.00 should have gotten you a 6' hose with two fittings. Parker opened a bunch of hose stores in the past ten years they usually have a pretty good selection and decent prices. I think these are German D.I.N. there was a post with the fittings and PN#'s but I couldnt find it.

On plugging them off it seems as if you would need to remove the thermo valve. The picture D911 provided shows that when the valve is opened to the cooler it closes to the filter . The factory probably eliminates it on engines without a cooler. I have a junk one and will tear it apart and find out for sure. I can also get a plug to fit it and post PN#'s .
Soot- let us know what you find. It would be cool to have a definitive answer on the oil cooler plug mystery. I did a ton of searching and couldn't find one for sure answer, just speculation. That was why I was going to plug them and run it and see what happens, but the plugs cost more than the hose I know the threads where the hose attach are M22x1.5 but have no idea what the threads that go into the filter housing are. Please enlighten when you find out thanks-Scott
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  #24  
Old 04-14-2010, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Maybe plugging the lines as I suggested was a bad Idea. I am not sure if when the Thermostat opens it cuts off the flow of Oil to the filter or not.

The little "a" is the Oil flow into the Filter the Big "A" is the Oil flow past the Thermostat and into the Oil Cooler Hose. The Big "B" is the cooled Oil returning from the Oil Cooler.

So without knowing for sure if the open Thermostat cuts off the Oil to the Oil Filter and sends all of it to the Oil Cooler it would be safer to loop the Oil Cooler Hoses.


Okay , I pulled the filter housing apart. The thermostat Does block off the lower inlet when the oil gets hot redirecting it to the cooler. ( inlet is by # 11 & 12 ) There is a small 1/4 hole left when shut but the majority is covered . Number 8 looked to be the bypass valve for cold oil , plugged filter (plugged cooler port ) operation. That would bypass the filter directly returning oil to the pan.

The factory must install a slug in place of the thermostat when the oil cooler is deleted. This would hold the spring for the letter A check valve.
#17 & #9 are screwed in place and their threads are staked afterward.

The thread size on the filter housing is a 18mm 1.5 thread. I found some plugs off of a hydraulic pump that fit. They had an O ring on the face and where flush. They looked good but I cant find them online .

The outer A portion is a DIN fitting .

Your jumper seems to be the easiest route. A whole lot easier than pulling the oil filter housing and removing the thermostat. The hose has to be at least a 5/8 though.

If I find any fittings I will post part numbers.
__________________


Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes

Last edited by soothappens; 04-14-2010 at 04:16 PM.
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  #25  
Old 04-14-2010, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
Soot- let us know what you find. It would be cool to have a definitive answer on the oil cooler plug mystery. I did a ton of searching and couldn't find one for sure answer, just speculation. That was why I was going to plug them and run it and see what happens, but the plugs cost more than the hose I know the threads where the hose attach are M22x1.5 but have no idea what the threads that go into the filter housing are. Please enlighten when you find out thanks-Scott
This answer is in the Oil Cooler Repair section.
The Oil Cooler Repair Nipples are actually the same Nipples that screw into the Filter Housing.

The Oil Filter Housing is tapped for M18x1.5 threads (but my knowledge is only related to 617.952).

If this seems familiar it is that same size as the spark plug holes on some older cars.

Last year Sears was selling this sized tap for around $13 (Made by Vermont America). They are less on eBay if you find a seller that has a decent shipping price.

I have pulled some used ones off Oil Filter Housings at the Junk Yard to verify that they are the same as the described Repair Nipples.
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  #26  
Old 04-14-2010, 04:11 PM
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OOPS!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
This answer is in the Oil Cooler Repair section.
The Oil Cooler Repair Nipples are actually the same Nipples that screw into the Filter Housing.

The Oil Filter Housing is tapped for M18x1.5 threads (but my knowledge is only related to 617.952).

If this seems familiar it is that same size as the spark plug holes on some older cars.

Last year Sears was selling this sized tap for around $13 (Made by Vermont America). They are less on eBay if you find a seller that has a decent shipping price.

I have pulled some used ones off Oil Filter Housings at the Junk Yard to verify that they are the same as the described Repair Nipples.
Okay 18mm it is not 17mm as I stated . Talked with the hydraulic shop that measured it he said it could have been 18mm . Thanks Diesel911 edited original post

Plugs where from a Rexroth pump (German as well )
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !!




86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2010, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for all the replies guys. So, from what I gather from this info if you plug the ports at the filter and the t-stat opens it will allow unfiltered oil to bypass to the engine. The hose fittings are M22x1.5 and the filter housing threads are M18x1.5. Seems to me that the loop hose is the way to go, but plugs would work in an emergency. Hope this info helps someone, and thanks again for all the research.- Scott
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  #28  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. So, from what I gather from this info if you plug the ports at the filter and the t-stat opens it will allow unfiltered oil to bypass to the engine. The hose fittings are M22x1.5 and the filter housing threads are M18x1.5. Seems to me that the loop hose is the way to go, but plugs would work in an emergency. Hope this info helps someone, and thanks again for all the research.- Scott
Unfiltered is the key word.
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  #29  
Old 04-15-2010, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 10fords View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. So, from what I gather from this info if you plug the ports at the filter and the t-stat opens it will allow unfiltered oil to bypass to the engine. The hose fittings are M22x1.5 and the filter housing threads are M18x1.5. Seems to me that the loop hose is the way to go, but plugs would work in an emergency. Hope this info helps someone, and thanks again for all the research.- Scott

Unfiltered is the Key word.

M18x1.5 is the size of spark Plugs in older Engines. If there is room to fit them in an emergency you could remov the Oil Cooler Hoses, the Filter Housing Fittings and plug the Oil Filter Housing holes with some short threaded Spark Plugs. You might have to break off the Insulators on the plugs to have enough room to do that.
If the Plugs seal on the tapered portion you would have to use some sort of thread sealant.
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  #30  
Old 04-16-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Unfiltered is the Key word.

M18x1.5 is the size of spark Plugs in older Engines. If there is room to fit them in an emergency you could remov the Oil Cooler Hoses, the Filter Housing Fittings and plug the Oil Filter Housing holes with some short threaded Spark Plugs. You might have to break off the Insulators on the plugs to have enough room to do that.
If the Plugs seal on the tapered portion you would have to use some sort of thread sealant.
Just for the hell of it I think I'll throw a couple of spark plugs in the filter cannister holes and see what sort of explanations my redneck buddies can come up with the next time we have a shop/beer night!! The possibilities are endless!!!

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