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  #16  
Old 01-02-2011, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
What's the difference between the one for 9.60 and the one for 13.26. 9.60 premixed and 13.26 concentrate? I assume so, but it's no clear.
D'oh, you are correct! That info is buried in the fine print. The correct stuff is $13.26 per gallon. At least you only need to buy 2 to get the free shipping though.

http://www.amazon.com/Zerex-ZXGO51-G-05-Antifreeze-Gallon/dp/B0033QNZZ0/

I'll update the previous post.



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  #17  
Old 01-02-2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
The proper MB / G-05 coolant is cheap enough that this should not even be a question. Use the right stuff, and don't use anything else. Simple. If you can't find it, most likely you are not looking hard enough. Not all McParts stores carry it, or not in all locations. However NAPA is nationwide and they can order it if they don't have it in stock. You can also buy both the Mercedes bottled stuff as well as the Zerex G-05 online. Shoot, Amazon has it for $13.26 / gallon with free shipping on orders over $25! (Click here.)


It's not worth saving a couple bucks and using the high-silicate evil green stuff. Read Q12 / A12 in that article linked above... here's an excerpt:

Filling a system with the wrong coolant could cause problems. In a 300-hour test of OAT (green) coolant in a Ford engine designed for HOAT (yellow / G-05) coolant, the water pump impellor and backing plate were seriously damaged by cavitation corrosion.


Here is some more reading:

STAR Tech - MB Antifreeze Recommendations:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/antifreeze_article.pdf

Motor magazine - Coolant Confusion:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/general/Coolant_Confusion.pdf


Originally Posted by vstech
it's not the aluminum parts you have to worry about, it's the plastic ones.

You 2 are right on this !!

There are people in white coats that spend years on developing corrosion inhibitor packages for coolants. Many of the real good ones have been banned ~ Arsenic, Chromate, Vanadium, Phosphates to name a few.

Every now and again we get a thread about some one with a bad top tank.
I often wonder what coolant they have been using.

It is quite clear that MB had good reasons (technical not commercial) for their coolant requirements.
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  #18  
Old 01-02-2011, 09:53 PM
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So, I'm curious....the car in question (92 300D) has 226,000 miles and has been on the green stuff since I've owned it (7 years, 89,000 miles ago). I'm switching to Zerex once the weather warms up. Radiator and aux water pump were changed about six years ago. Coolant changes have been done every 2 years.

So what are my most likely candidates for damage? Or am I likely OK?

Oddly enough, it had the green stuff when I bought it and the lady I bought it from always took it to the dealer. Perplexing....
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Last edited by shertex; 01-03-2011 at 07:49 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
So, I'm curious....the car in question (92 300D) has 226,000 miles and has been on the green stuff since I've owned it (7 years, 89,000 miles ago). I'm switching to Zerex once the weather warms up. Radiator and aux water pump were changed about six years ago. Coolant changes have been done every 2 years.

So what are my most likely candidates for damage? Or am I like OK?

Oddly enough, it had the green stuff when I bought it and the lady I bought it from always took it to the dealer. Perplexing....
One of the first signs of plastic damage can be seen by checking the top radiator hose inlet pipe int the tank. If you can easily scrape away plastic, kind of like crumbly cheese, from the inside of the tank fitting, its on the way out. It is more likely to be a problem if the motor has run very hot for extended periods.
What was the reason for the replacement 6 years ago?
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
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1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
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  #20  
Old 01-02-2011, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
One of the first signs of plastic damage can be seen by checking the top radiator hose inlet pipe int the tank. If you can easily scrape away plastic, kind of like crumbly cheese, from the inside of the tank fitting, its on the way out. It is more likely to be a problem if the motor has run very hot for extended periods.
What was the reason for the replacement 6 years ago?
I'm having some difficulty recalling...it was when I first got the car and I was a complete novice. But I THINK it was a matter of the neck breaking/cracking.
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  #21  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:01 AM
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I'm having some difficulty recalling...it was when I first got the car and I was a complete novice. But I THINK it was a matter of the neck breaking/cracking.
Yes that is what happens once the degradation of the plastic tank goes beyond just the inside surface of the neck degrading. Dont panic just yet though, probably the plastic is ok. I hope you catch it before it goes all crumbly.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2011, 07:37 AM
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The 50/50 mix is 1/2 water. so the engine takes about 2 gallons to fill it. as stated, the 50/50 is $9.60 a gallon X 2= $19.20.

One gallon of concentrate is $13.26. Mixed with one gallon of Distilled water @ say $0.80 = $14.06 for 2 gallons.

The premix would be $9.20 for the GO-5 and $0.20 for the water per gallon. Is it mixed with Distilled water, or hose water?

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  #23  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:00 AM
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So what are my most likely candidates for damage? Or am I likely OK?
Possibly the plastic issues, as noted above; although with a fairly recent radiator (which should have a metal-reinforced neck) you are probably ok. For reasons I don't fully understand, the OM60x diesels can cause weird internal deposits inside the radiator, resulting in abnormally high engine temps, even on a fairly new radiator. My '87 ran too hot when I bought it but the radiator was only 4 years old (new OE/dealer rad). I figured it couldn't be the radiator, so I changed everything else with no luck. Long story short, another new radiator cured it. That one lasted longer, about 10 years before it started leaking at the tank seam...

I wouldn't lose sleep unless you have issues with operating temps in the future which aren't cured by the usual new t-stat / rad / fan clutch.



Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Oddly enough, it had the green stuff when I bought it and the lady I bought it from always took it to the dealer. Perplexing....
You'll sometimes get a dealer that doesn't do the right thing. My guess is, they save a few bucks buying green instead of MB antifreeze. Maybe they pad the margins even more by then making their customers come back every 2 years for a flush since the green doesn't last as long; whereas the G-05 may cost slightly more up front but lasts longer so it's actually less expensive in the long run.



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