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  #16  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
LOL, I think control F only finds those things ON THAT Page....
but the search feature at the top of the page finds either posts or threads already discussed on the forum.... a very worthy feature...

No no you silly goose

http://www.epatest.com/609/manual/

Once you open up the PDF just use CTRL-F to find your answers It'll search the entire booklet.
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Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:43 PM
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OK, LOL, very true...

But instead of just searching for what they think they need to know.. if everyone who has AC would just read it from front to back ONCE... our AC help on the forum would be a LOT easier...and people would save a lot of money not making mistakes..
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2010, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
OK, LOL, very true...

But instead of just searching for what they think they need to know.. if everyone who has AC would just read it from front to back ONCE... our AC help on the forum would be a LOT easier...and people would save a lot of money not making mistakes..
Oh come on now leather, lessons are much better learned the hard way multiple times

Eventually, I would like to get my AC working in my car. Thankfully the PO found where the leak was (compressor) so my job is rather easy!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
1984 380SL
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
.... Thankfully the PO found where the leak was (compressor) so my job is rather easy!
And you are going to BET how much money/labor on the fact that that was the ONLY leak ... LOL
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  #20  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
And you are going to BET how much money/labor on the fact that that was the ONLY leak ... LOL
How bout this, if it isn't the only leak I'll fly you up here and have you personally fix it

Northwestern Pennsylvania is heaven in the summer time unlike oppressive Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
1984 380SL
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  #21  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:17 PM
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Since we know you know where the EPA test is...
do you know what the EPA allows you to do to test for a leak....?
possibly saving you from having to replace a lot of valuable refrigerant ?

HINT : it has to do with four ounces of R22 and being able to legally vent that to the atmosphere after doing a sniffer test for leaks.... OOOOPPPPPPsss... that was too much of a hint...
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2010, 02:45 PM
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I'll get the certification and find some. Are there any stores in Maryland near Andrews AIR Force Base the have the cans in stock. I'll have to do the research a little later.
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dablk1 View Post
I'll get the certification and find some. Are there any stores in Maryland near Andrews AIR Force Base the have the cans in stock. I'll have to do the research a little later.
That is a good plan... both cost and time wise...
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  #24  
Old 04-06-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dablk1 View Post
I am not buying a 30lb jug for $500 or something like that.


I have paid under $300 for both of my 30lb tanks. Your pricing is way off. You just need to buy in the off season and know where to look.

AND, if you do the math per POUND (16oz) of R12, it is nearly a wash seeing as you need just less than 3lbs for your vehicle, or four cans. I saw 12oz cans of 134A at the local auto store for about $9 last time I was there.

I would not go thru the hassle of a 134A conversion that will cool less to save maybe $50 on refrigerant. If you are on that tight of a budget, skip something else once a month to make up the difference... it IS worth it to retain R12.

I tried a replacement in one of my cars as it was leaking and was not too impressed with its low speed cooling ability.
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  #25  
Old 04-06-2010, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dablk1 View Post
I'll get the certification and find some. Are there any stores in Maryland near Andrews AIR Force Base the have the cans in stock. I'll have to do the research a little later.
AHEM, check your PM box. (upper right corner)
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  #26  
Old 04-06-2010, 05:04 PM
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There, now I'm certified!
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  #27  
Old 04-06-2010, 07:37 PM
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I haven't read the whole thread, but I saw the title and I felt that I needed to chime in Sorry if I am stating the obvious here.

I filled out the application and the test several years back and I am R-12 certified.

I have, however, never bought any R12 because by then it was already so expensive that it wasn't worth it. Checking into the price of the new receiver/dryer and even a new compressor, it made it obvious that converting to R134a is the way to go.

I have successfully converted two of my vehicles to R134a: a 1982 Toyota pickup and a 1993 Ford Explorer. There is nothing to it. On the Explorer, I had to replace the expansion valve (a $3 plastic piece). On both of them, I had to replace all the o-rings. Basically you unscrew everything and replace all the black o-rings with the green ones.

You will need (buy or borrow) a cheap Harbor Freight manifold, some cans of R134a and a can or two of PAG oil. Buy the oil and the refrigerant at Walmart. To evacuate the system (pump out all the air) you borrow a vacuum pump at O'Reilly or AutoZone.

The whole job takes a couple of hours. Be sure to replace the receiver/dryer, and if the A/C compressor is suspect, they are cheap - the Mercedes A/C compressors for the U.S. imports were the cheap GM ones.

Finally, about the "R12" substitites. There aren't any. There are some that have a mix of R134 and propane gas (yes, propane), and that's downright dangerous.

Convert to R134a.
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  #28  
Old 04-06-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konstan View Post
There are some that have a mix of R134 and propane gas (yes, propane), and that's downright dangerous.

Convert to R134a.
R134a is flammable as well isn't it?
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  #29  
Old 04-06-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konstan View Post
I have, however, never bought any R12 because by then it was already so expensive that it wasn't worth it. Checking into the price of the new receiver/dryer and even a new compressor, it made it obvious that converting to R134a is the way to go.
I have some R12 for $25 a 12oz can. I know I'll never 'get rich' but if I find a good deal I pass it on.
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  #30  
Old 04-06-2010, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
R134a is flammable as well isn't it?
Not under conditions that you are likely to experience.
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