door check loud clicking sound - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #31 07-20-2010, 10:20 PM

oh, new checks will prevent any issues from happening in the weld area. the problem with the check pin strap (*my name, I have NO idea what MB calls it.) is the vehicle gets a bad check that is causing popping and sticking and the door is continued to be used this way and the stiff check beats the crap out of the pin strap. new checks at the first sign of issue with the checks would prevent any failure of the door straps

mytmousemalibu · #32 07-20-2010, 11:10 PM

Old Bimmers E32-E34's are bad about the metal in the door ( 2 sheetmetal layers that are stamped) where the door stop bolts, they fatigue and tear out. Pretty strong formed shape too. I cut the whole rectangular area out and hammer it flat for a template. Traced onto a 2in wide piece of steel flat stock. Cut it all out and weld it to the open hole and door structure and metal finish the weld, prime and paint it! Need trained eyes to tell ive repaired one. Customers love it, works uber! Id recomend welding it before its hosed. In an area that flexes and moves (weather your eyes see it or not), contacting screw threads acts like a file. At some point in time, they'll fail again. Just IMO & FYI

gastropodus · #33 07-21-2010, 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

oh, new checks will prevent any issues from happening in the weld area. the problem with the check pin strap (*my name, I have NO idea what MB calls it.) is the vehicle gets a bad check that is causing popping and sticking and the door is continued to be used this way and the stiff check beats the crap out of the pin strap. new checks at the first sign of issue with the checks would prevent any failure of the door straps

Thanks, John, that's my take on it, too. In my case the check is nearly inoperational (the door opens too wide, then hits a hard stop), so you've motivated me to get that sucka replaced!

Kurt

funola · #34 07-21-2010, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocSarvis

I welded mine from the outside where the jam screws were placed in the photo. Weld fast and small and not enough heat to bother anything. Touch up with matching paint and you can't tell. Just me but I couldn't get in an out of a car with shiny jamb screws in place. Just couldn't do it every day. Thanks

Do you stare at your door jamb every time you open the doors?

I hardly notice them and have to conciously look at them (to see if new cracks are developing). On the other hand, I would have noticed the loud snapping sound everytime I open and close the doors if the screws are not there. I am going to leave them in as a long term test, if I see signs of cracks in the door jamb sheet metal, then I will look into welding them.

zeke · #35 07-21-2010, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4thesporty

I would think that it wouldn't matter where you drilled and tapped as long as you go through the welded plate, right.

I was planning on doing two holes, one on the upper right of the clip and one on the lower left.

Can you please post pictures when you do this? I want to use this method to fix this problem on my wagon (already replaced the door check strap and retightened it once - still poppin'). Drill and tap is something I can do myself- otherwise I'll have to go find a welder.....

4thesporty · #36 07-21-2010, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeke

Can you please post pictures when you do this? I want to use this method to fix this problem on my wagon (already replaced the door check strap and retightened it once - still poppin'). Drill and tap is something I can do myself- otherwise I'll have to go find a welder.....

I'll try to take some pics when I do it. FWIW, I found this idea on this thread:

Door Check / Broken Spot Weld Fix

It seemed like a nice middle ground between welding it, and this fix mentioned on this thread.

No offense to the OP, however I want something that "looks tight," if that makes any sense to anybody but me.

funola · #37 07-21-2010, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4thesporty

I'll try to take some pics when I do it. FWIW, I found this idea on this thread:

Door Check / Broken Spot Weld Fix

It seemed like a nice middle ground between welding it, and this fix mentioned on this thread.

No offense to the OP, however I want something that "looks tight," if that makes any sense to anybody but me.

No offense at all! We all have different expecatations from our cars. I think the thread you linked to is involving an SD, where the piece may be a different shape and the welds in different spots than the 300D. Best to look behind there with a mirror if possible.

4thesporty · #38 07-22-2010, 11:04 AM

This job took me about 30 minutes start to finish. It did eliminate the flexing on the door jam, but it also told me that some of the popping is from the door check too. I replaced it about 2 years ago, and guess I will do it again.

The vice grips are so I don't push the plate into neverland while pushing with the drill.

One hole drilled and tapped.

And Done!

I decided to use 1/4"-20 bolts because I had them readily available. This drill bit size was 13/64" per the chart. I did not put any loctite on the bolts and will watch to see if they get loose or not. Very easy job.

4thesporty · #39 07-22-2010, 11:05 AM

Need opinions on whether I should do one more hole in the 1-2 o'clock position. I didn't want to make the crack any worse at the time.

andrewjtx · #40 07-22-2010, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4thesporty

Need opinions on whether I should do one more hole in the 1-2 o'clock position. I didn't want to make the crack any worse at the time.

I think your bigger problem is that the crack that has formed is now rusting. Unless you treat that somehow, no repair is going to last.

zeke · #41 07-22-2010, 12:30 PM

Thanks 4thesporty!!!

Muchas gracias - will work on that this weekend!

4thesporty · #42 07-22-2010, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewjtx

I think your bigger problem is that the crack that has formed is now rusting. Unless you treat that somehow, no repair is going to last.

Good point, I did, after the repair take a little emory cloth to it and it is only minor surface rust, but shows up good in photos. Sandpaper and touch up paint should cover it.

andrewjtx · #43 07-22-2010, 01:33 PM

You'll need more than color to cover it. You need something that will neutralize the rust in the pores of the metal. You may think you got it all, but you can never be sure. Rust is a cancer!

At the least I would prep with phosphoric acid (OsPho) and at the most, you need to start with a miracle paint or POR15. Then you can paint over it with your body color. If that sheet metal deteriorates any further, you could be looking at a much larger repair job.

4thesporty · #44 07-22-2010, 02:47 PM

I have seen that paint/primer that does that. Does it really work? I have also heard of POR15 on a motorcycle forum I'm on (for inside fuel tanks). What is your recommendation.

I plead ignorance on most aspects of body work, and rust removal.

andrewjtx · #45 07-22-2010, 11:22 PM

For bare metal prep before painting, phosphoric acid (or a product containing it). It etches the metal well and prevents rusting before primer/paint are applied.

In the case of rust treatment, opinions are like A-holes. Everyone on here will have one.

I've used Miracle Paint (google: Bill Hirsch) with great success. Others will swear by POR15. Never used POR15, but the shear numbers of happy customers can't be a fluke. Either one has to be better than leaving rust to eat your car.