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  #1  
Old 04-07-2010, 06:22 PM
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300SD power locks

Hi there I bought a 1984 300SD and the passenger side keyhole was filled with some kind of cement/rubber, I don't know. I can still use the drivers side keyhole... sometimes. I can stick the key in fine, and it locks fine, but something doesn't seem to line up inside when I try to unlock it. When the weather is cold, it can take 10 or 20 tries. Would WD-40 help the situation or totally destroy everything?

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  #2  
Old 04-07-2010, 09:31 PM
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That usually means that the key is getting worn down, but the lock could also be wearing out. If it also sometimes sticks in the ignition then probably the key, if only the driver's door, then the lock. Go to the dealer with your registration and VIN and order a new key cut ($20). If that doesn't fix the problem then it's time to replace the lock. If you have to replace the lock, you'll want to use a new key with it anyway. New keys feel soooo much better. The preferred lubricant for locks is powdered graphite (Mr. Zip)
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

Last edited by tinypanzer; 04-07-2010 at 09:38 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-07-2010, 09:44 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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Ugggrrrrkkkkkkk !!! (Annoying basketball Stadium HORN)

WRONG !
Please do not use "Powdered" or any other form of Graphite in a Mercedes Benz
Lock-set!
1. It is an Abrasive.
2. It will "Gum Up The Works" eventually!

The Authorized Lubricant is Mercedes Part Number 011 989 26 51 10.
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2010, 10:12 PM
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Big obnoxious 60hz buzzer right back at ya, my friend.

From page 108 of my 300SE owner's manual in the lubricants section:


Grease Nipples------------Multipurpose or lubrication grease
Door locks---------------Powdered Graphite
Brake reservoir------Approx .5L------MB Brake fluid (DOT 4)

1) It's an abrasive - Not really. It absorbs moisture from the air which gets between the lattice and acts as a lubricant. In fact, recent studies show that Graphite exhibits superlubricity.

2) It will gum up the works eventually - Locksmiths have been using graphite for decades if not centuries. What gums up the works is if you add any type of oil to a graphite lubed lock. Oil + Dirt = Gunk.

When you're all done with that crow, I'm actually curious what that MB lube you mentioned is. I can't find it anywhere, but I'm really curious as to its makeup and if its for later model cars, or what. Or, did MB release a TSB and say "stop using graphite use this instead'?

Sorry for the gloat, but it's not often I'm right and you're wrong
Attached Thumbnails
300SD power locks-mbmanual.jpg  
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

Last edited by tinypanzer; 04-07-2010 at 11:44 PM.
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  #5  
Old 04-09-2010, 12:55 AM
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I have a local lock smith that swears AT the graphite dust, citing it for gumming up locks.

They recommend a light lube instead, and sell some stuff called Baslistol.
Since I was playing with other locks at the time, I picked up a small can, and ended up using it on just about every lock I had access to. By the time I eventually lost the can (I think my Dad snagged it...) I was happy enough with it's effect on my locks that I bought the larger size to replace it.

MB door locks, ignition lock, padlocks, home door locks, it's helped in all of mine, and a couple of friends vehicles/houses as well.
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2010, 08:26 PM
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so...

So every person recommended something different. Any ideas on WD-40?
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2010, 11:36 PM
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Other than it's a water displacer rather than a lubricant, it's good stuff. It works well to de-water stuff, and leaves a very small amount of oil in place.

You can then add another oil to lubricate the lock.
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Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...
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  #8  
Old 04-12-2010, 06:56 PM
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Every person may have recommended something different, but MB says powdered graphite and you deviate from MB specs at your own peril. It just boggles my mind sometimes how people try to come up with their own justifications for doing something the wrong way even when doing it the right way costs a dollar.

And yes graphite will gum up a lock. The second you add oil to it.
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
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  #9  
Old 04-12-2010, 09:27 PM
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Lubricants for Mercedes "Leaves"

TP,

I'm gonna steal one line from your descriptions of "Graphiting":

"1) It's an abrasive - Not really. It absorbs moisture from the air which gets between the lattice and acts as a lubricant."

Moisture and Mercedes "Locksets" are not a happy marriage.
(Spoken, Galvanic)

Future and Present WD40 Addictees:
The residual "Goo" left behind when all the VOC s evaporate are the product's
main failing.
HOWEVEAH, WD40 IS the Superior Product for removing Adhesives...
(Say Duct Tape)



Always thinking about the NaCl content in that moist Onshore...
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  #10  
Old 04-13-2010, 04:36 PM
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I guess we can agree to disagree on this matter, though I'm still curious about the MB lube stuff you mentioned.

But the fact that MB actually says to use powdered graphite in the owner's manual is good enough for me. Plus, I've been using only powdered graphite in locks for years and I've never had one gum up. The only exception to that is if you spray oil into a lock that was originally lubed with graphite or vice versa. Basically, once you pick a lubricant you'd better stick with it. Mixing lubricants, especially graphite and oil is a sure way to make a sludge.

I don't like using oil on door locks for a few reasons. First, oil attracts dirt. Every time you insert the key, whatever pocket lint that was on there or whatever will get in the oil and stay there. Also, if you live on a dirt road or in a dusty environment using oil in your door locks will very quickly become an issue. You basically wind up having to oil the lock all the time in order to wash out the crud that the oil attracts. Messy. The only time I'd use WD-40 or similar is on a frozen padlock that's been in the weather. For that it works well, but again, expect to have to re-apply frequently.

Graphite works because it absorbs some atmospheric moisture and this moisture gets trapped inside the graphite's lattice structures and acts like ball bearings. It doesn't attract dirt because it's dry, and it gets into little crevices and actually keeps dirt out by simply taking up the space that the dirt wants to get into. As far as corrosive effects, you only have to worry about aluminum. Steel and brass aren't an issue.

Honestly, I think that most of the bad rep that graphite gets is due to people mixing it either knowingly or unknowingly with an oil based lubricant. I've never had a lock that used ONLY graphite give me an issue. Ever.
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
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  #11  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:01 PM
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Graphite all the way...I wouldn't use anything BUT graphite in locks. WD-40 is almost a sure way to gum up a lock if you plan on using it more than say...a day.
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  #12  
Old 04-15-2010, 07:35 PM
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ok I think I'm going with the graphite thanks everybody
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  #13  
Old 04-15-2010, 08:07 PM
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I use graphite on my window seals and door locks with excelent results.

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