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#16
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Not done a proper bleeding? I have never done any work on the system...so why would it need to be bled? Pedal feel, travel and firmness has always been perfect.
I'll start shopping around for a NEW unit...thanks for the help guys! Any recommendations on brake fluid?
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Current cars: 2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles 2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles 1995 S320, 207k Miles |
#17
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If his system was working and now it isn't, something other than bleeding is wrong. He either has a leak in the master cylinder or caliper as a bad hose would go to the floor. Simply replacing parts without knowing which part is bad won't fix the problem. Rebuilding is a matter of RTM and having the proper tools. It used to be common back when these cars were new. Results varied as do the results of today's reman & cheap imports. Calipers and master cylinder can be rebuilt IF he can find kits and a hone. Regardless of whether he rebuilds or replaces, he is going to have to diagnose. Leaky calipers are usually apparent as soon as the boot is pulled back from the piston. Masters are usually apparent by pulling them away from the firewall or booster and looking under the seal. Sometimes masters have internal leaks that don't show up visually but never give a solid pedal no matter how much they are bled. Any deteriorated hoses or brake hardware should also be changed when brakes are repaired. Brake disks have minimum thickness specs and can be turned id thick enough. Replacing pads will be a judgment call based on how much pad is left and whether they are contaminated with brake fluid. Buying local will help if parts have to be returned. Balance this against quality of Phil's parts. I suggest including him in the decision process. Do it once & be done for another 30,000 mi & then replace pads.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#18
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If your pedal is soft do a proper bleeding...
while you are down there you just might see something that is causing the problem... even moisture in the fluid after a while can cause a soft pedal... So bleeding a system with reports of the pedal being soft is the logical first thing to do... If you SEE leaks ... then certainly look at those items causing that...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#19
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You might think that could be some air in the master or this replacement master is shot too? I'm feeling desperate now and any help will be more than welcome |
#20
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If the Air has been bled out sounds like the used Master Cylinder is not good either. The answer is to get a good rebuilt or a New Master Cylinder (I bought a new one FENCO made in Taiwan has been working OK for several years now). If using a Master Cylinder Rebuild kit is cheaper you can do that but you need to inspect the Bore of the Master Cylinder for pitting to evaluate if it can be reused. Also on my Master Cylinder there is a Pin that needs to be removed in order to take the guts out of the Master Cylinder. In the pic below item #27; the Pin needs to be pulled up and out of the Master Cylinder in order to get the Piston out.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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